How about a good clamp for miters?

Jesse Cloud

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Joined
Jan 23, 2007
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Clamping miters drives me crazy (a short trip my wife would say).  I'll bet the engineers at Festool could come up with something that will clamp miters tightly and maintain the fit!
 
Hi Jesse,

Bessey make just what you are after. They ain't cheap though. I've seen some great boxes made using them.

Regards,

Rob
 
You could use oversized stock with those clam clamps and resize to cut off the holes if it's flat stock. Good results with bessey's band clamps, I'd like to try the KP framing blocks tho.
 
Mirko, Brice,

I'm interested in something like either the Clam Clamps or Ulmia clamps.   My needs range from small cabinet and furniture moldings to window and door casings (I'm remodeling the house).  I.e. from small to larger miters   Some questions...

For what do you typically use them?
How do you deal with the small holes created?

Thanks,

Dan.
 
  Dan, I haven't shelled out the clams yet for the "clam clamps", someday soon I will. I have something like Mirko. Maestro "clamp-all" is what I use. I do trim so the holes are part of a trim job, no big deal, about the size of a finish nailer's hole. If you are a furniture maker, the holes may be an issue.

Edit: the price of the Maestro "clamp-all" $40 USD for 4 clamps,
Robert Larson Company $150 USD for 48 clamps, they are the same as Mirko's Ulmia clamps, link to amazon Robert Larson Company clamps. If you only need a small set the the Maestro is a good option, you can add more clamps as needed.

Boy, I was having all sort of trouble with this post, it took 3 tries editing it to get it right.
 
Dan Clark said:
Mirko, Brice,

I'm interested in something like either the Clam Clamps or Ulmia clamps.   My needs range from small cabinet and furniture moldings to window and door casings (I'm remodeling the house).  I.e. from small to larger miters   Some questions...

For what do you typically use them?
How do you deal with the small holes created?

Thanks,

Dan.

To answer your questions more specifically Dan. I use the Maestro/Ulmia type clamps for miters on door and window trim. And sometimes on outside corners on crown. This type of clamp works best on smaller trim, maybe 3" wide or so.
510FR2YVJ5L._SS400_.jpg

This picture shows some of the things you can do. In the shot you see they have clamps on the face of trim to hold a miter together. I don't like doing that, the clamp can easily tare through the grain of the wood. The clamps are spring steel, the Maestro's have very sharp points. So they work better on the edge of mitered trim. On larger trim, like a lot of the old Victorian style homes of Pittsburgh, the Clam clamps seem like a better idea. The Maestro/Ulmia clamps can be used on almost any miter joint, where holes in the moulding is acceptable. Just fill the hole as you would any nail hole, again about the size of a finish nail hole.
 
I like these Collins Spring Clamps.
http://www.collinstool.com/base.php?page=collins_miter_clamps.htm

The tips are real pointy so they can get a grip on very difficult parts. They don't exert as much pressure as the Ulmias but I like them for detail work(molding returns). They leave very small divots. I will sometimes have three or four of these on one larger joint. Get the pliers too. Keep you fingers out of the way when applying in case they slip :'(

I have four Clam clamps for casing. They are absolutely the best. I haven't tried them with Dominos yet but they work great with biscuits.They leave pin marks in the casing but you can fill them with colored wax(after finish).I have had the best luck letting the glue set overnight if the molding has to be persuaded. Jim Chestnut (the guy that makes em) posts at Journal of Light Construction forum a lot. He is hilarious.
 
I'm surprised no one has mentioned tape.  I use blue masking tape for initial assembly and then clear packing tape stretched tight to pull everything together.
 
MarkF said:
I'm surprised no one has mentioned tape.  I use blue masking tape for initial assembly and then clear packing tape stretched tight to pull everything together.

Mark, I've used tape in a pinch before, but it's not my preferred method. Most glues need pressure to adhere properly. Tape in most cases will not provide enough clamping pressure to make a good joint. My 2 cents.
 
Wow, what a lot of great ideas!  I especially enjoyed the Chestnut videos :D.

My most recent frustration was trying to glue up mitered, splined, shaped feet for a chest.  On the dry fit, everything looked perfect, but I guess the joint went hydraulic with the glue.  I taped the show side, and they look fine, but the back side has some separation.  You have to be down on the floor to see it though - so if you won't tell, I won't either. ::)

I still think those bright guys and gals at Festool could come up with a good clamp that makes a tight miter without leaving holes.

Having said all that, I just might spring for a cam clamp or two. ;D
 
I use the spring clamps.  If it is on a piece that I don't want the holes to show, I hot glue a thin scrap piece of hardwood where the clamp will go.  You can get alot of pressure out of a few spring clamps, and don't have to worry about the material.  When I'm done, the blocks come right off with a little denatured alcohol.  Cleanup is easy & you can reuse the blocks until they are "destroyed".

 
cdconey said:
I use the spring clamps.  If it is on a piece that I don't want the holes to show, I hot glue a thin scrap piece of hardwood where the clamp will go.  You can get alot of pressure out of a few spring clamps, and don't have to worry about the material.  When I'm done, the blocks come right off with a little denatured alcohol.  Cleanup is easy & you can reuse the blocks until they are "destroyed".
Great idea cd, thanks.
 
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