How about wooden L-tenon connectors from Festool for DF500 or 700
- Thread starter ChuckM
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Michael Kellough
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It does add a little strength to the joint. Not enough to be worthwhile for ordinary cabinetmaking but he has a good reason to do this. (To be clear, this joint is less strong than using Dominos the usual way, at 45 degrees to both parts)
He carves the parts, sometimes carving around the corner.
Using the finger jointed tenons at ninety degrees to one another allows the tenons to stay in the middle of the boards keeping them well below the finished surface of the part compared to the usual tenon reinforced miter joint which uses a tenon at 45
degrees to the part surface so the end of the tenons are just below the surface. He probably exposed one while carving...
He carves the parts, sometimes carving around the corner.
Using the finger jointed tenons at ninety degrees to one another allows the tenons to stay in the middle of the boards keeping them well below the finished surface of the part compared to the usual tenon reinforced miter joint which uses a tenon at 45
degrees to the part surface so the end of the tenons are just below the surface. He probably exposed one while carving...
HarveyWildes
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I do see some advantages to drilling the mortises straight in from the ends on thick hardwoods such as 6/4 walnut. You would be going with the grain. When drilling at 45 degrees you are sort of going cross grain and the machine can "scoot" crooked on you. No problem with softer woods and composite material.
As I understand [member=297]Michael Kellough[/member] explanation, it is possible that super strength is not so important. I make a lot of serving trays. For those, I would not use the joint as the OP shows. For wood carving joint as Michael explains, if I were doing that joint, I would definitely want my carving tools to be REAL sharp.
Tinker
Tinker
Anyone interested in learning more about this L-tenon application can check out the FW #254–May/June 2016 Issue (p. 54- 59), including a wooden/aluminum L-tenon variation and a plywood version. After seeing the sample builds employing these tenons in the article (including large scale cabinets, chair, etc.), I am convinced that this kind of L-tenon has its role in more than just carved boxes.
The article offers other advantages of this kind of tenon. It certainly gives me food for thought next time when I approach another mitered project with dominoes as the joinery.
The article offers other advantages of this kind of tenon. It certainly gives me food for thought next time when I approach another mitered project with dominoes as the joinery.
I simply use hidden splines (see attached picture). They are quick and easy to cut. I put one every 4-5 cm. Compare the glue area of finger joint of L-tenons on the left (light brown area is what matters). 1 spline is roughly equivalent to 1 L-bracket with 4 "fingers". Not worth the effort IMHO.
Now, if L-tenons were aluminum, that's a different story.
You could chop them up from thick aluminum angle and have a knockdown joint!
Now, if L-tenons were aluminum, that's a different story.
You could chop them up from thick aluminum angle and have a knockdown joint!
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Michael Kellough
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[member=15585]Svar[/member] How do you cut the mortises? Domino before the miters are cut?
I used to do it on a router table after cutting miters. Do all parts referencing from the same side, move the fence, repeat.Michael Kellough said:
Later I made a jig - strip of ply with notches in it at equal intervals. Similar to what's used for dovetails. Clamp it to the edge of the miter, rout with straight bit and guide bushing. One side of the slot turns out rounded. You can either square it with chisel or round the splines.
If you have dovetail jig that would be the best to cut these slots.
