How close to the edge can I place a Domino?

subagon

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New member and first post...

I just purchased a Domino 500 and have been messing around with bits of scrap to get the feel of the tool. I mocked up a simple drawer (1/2" (12mm) and 4 3/8" (110mm) tall. I used the locating paddles to place two 4mm dominos in each corner joint. I'm not satisfied with the resulting domino placement. The two dominos are closer to the center of the board than each edge. Something like this;

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I haven't been able to find any information as to how close I can get to the edge. Does anyone know the minimum distance from the edge for each domino size?

Edit: The width of the board (110mm) just happened to be what I had at hand and isn't a work in progress. The resulting domino placement caused me to post this question.
 

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No hard and fast rule on the minimum distance from edge. Other factors such as positioning of grooves if any, type of lumber, etc. could influence where you would put the mortises

For this drawer, I would leave no less than 20mm of material on either side, and given the 4mm dominoes, the pencil line would therefore be marked 22mm or so from either edge. If a stronger joint is desired, three dominoes can be used.
 
I am mostly just sticking to the two main „markers“ on the domino. The flip stops and the edge.

If your machine is setup nicely, this will allow you to place the dominoes without marking.

Other than that, I would try to have at least half the domino width as Material next to it for mechanical stability...
(Where 4x20 domino: 4 is thickness / 20 is length / width is quickly measured ;) )
 
I mostly use pencil lines for marking mortises. My main concern on getting too close to a surface or an edge is blowing out the wood while tapping in a glued tenon. There is a lot of hydraulic pressure with the glue trying to find a place to ooze into.
 
Haha. I got a brain freeze when I looked at your diagram and related tp the 4mm as the width of the dominoes ( such dominoes don't exist unless you make them yourself!).

I would still leave about 20mm from the edge, just change the pencil lines.

Edit: The drawer shown in the images was about 130mm x 230mm. You can get a rough idea about the domino positions from the edge.
 

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Hi [member=72011]subagon[/member]

I do a lot of domino work and it does depend on the material.

Normally in MDF I try and keep at least 12 mm from an edge for the type of placement that you have shown. The problem with MDF is that close to an edge, and particularly with dominos going into a cut end, you can get hydraulic locking as a domino goes in and the MDF will split. I do put dominos in closer than 12 mm in your scenario and also a huge number going into the 'end grain'. In these cases I try and get just the right amount of glue (don't ask just work it out) and I push the dominos in a bit at a time with about 10 second rest between each push. This allows the glue to move and reduces the risk of hydraulic locking.

In plywood the situation is similar to MDF but not quite so critical.

In real wood it is even easier although, in your scenario, you can get chunks split out due to hydraulic locking if you are too energetic pushing the dominos in during glue-up.

Peter
 
If yer making drawers, I clamp the pieces to the MFT similar to a dove tail jig, one horizontal and one verticle and make through dominos.  once set up its easy peasy and very fast. I use the 6mm on 1/2 ply, sand the dominos flush and yer done , works great. Its a very strong joint. Id say (though Ive not actually tested it) would say its as strong as dove tails and almost as purdy.

You can make yer own dominos say out of walnut purple heart etc and really add some class to the drawers.
 
jobsworth said:
If yer making drawers, I clamp the pieces to the MFT similar to a dove tail jig, one horizontal and one verticle and make through dominos.  once set up its easy peasy and very fast. I use the 6mm on 1/2 ply, sand the dominos flush and yer done , works great. Its a very strong joint. Id say (though Ive not actually tested it) would say its as strong as dove tails and almost as purdy.

You can make yer own dominos say out of walnut purple heart etc and really add some class to the drawers.

I am so stealing this idea.  [big grin]
 
Wow! thanks, everyone.

Sorry I didn't state the material I was using, baltic birch plywood. I'll try 20mm w/ an extra domino in the middle and that straight thru joint too. Lots of scrap lying around to play with.  [smile]
 
jeffinsgf said:
jobsworth said:
If yer making drawers, I clamp the pieces to the MFT similar to a dove tail jig, one horizontal and one verticle and make through dominos.  once set up its easy peasy and very fast. I use the 6mm on 1/2 ply, sand the dominos flush and yer done , works great. Its a very strong joint. Id say (though Ive not actually tested it) would say its as strong as dove tails and almost as purdy.

You can make yer own dominos say out of walnut purple heart etc and really add some class to the drawers.

If ya got s lot of drawers to make it very quick, MFK 700 to route groove for the drawer bottoms, cut to width, then to length clamp to MFT and yer good.

I am so stealing this idea.  [big grin]
 

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[welcome] to the FOG forum

On a drawer, my rules of thumb is to place the first and last tonon at a minimum of the tenon width. On the edges, I always place the tenon centered with the material thickness. The two variables, material and tenon thickness.
Birdhunter said:
My main concern on getting too close to a surface or an edge is blowing out the wood while tapping in a glued tenon. There is a lot of hydraulic pressure with the glue trying to find a place to ooze into.

When trying to place mortises closer to an edge and based on [member=15289]Birdhunter[/member] remark, I would lightly sand the sides ridges of the tenons to give more room for the glue.
 
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