How do i install stacked stone?

[Nick2cd]

I have a fireplace with an ugly 1960's brick veneer.  under the veneer there is a smooth concrete shell that's about 1.5" thick.  Once i remove the old veneer, can i apply the stone with type S mortar directly to the concrete or do i still need the wire lath and scratch coat of mortar?  Any tips, tricks, or good installation videos would be much appreciated.  i have not yet found what I'm looking for on youtube. 

 

[awil66]

I would be using thinset for this application, unless your stone is thicker than 3-4".

 

[Nick2cd]

I would be using thinset for this application, unless your stone is thicker than 3-4".

Ok. Is the wire lath necessary over concrete?

 

[John H]

Read the manual 

Eldorado Stone is a quality product - checkout the installation manual on this page

http://www.eldoradostone.com/trade-community/specification-library/downloads/installation/

 

[Zacharytanner]

I used lath over my old brick fireplace and used elderado. I got this additive to add to the mortar to help them "stick" while they set up. I also went to the ceiling and put up a cedar mantle and blue stone stoop

Added a gas insert too

Frank

 

[Zacharytanner]

Great product - highly recommend- I had never done any masonry work - my wife and I laid all the stones out on the floor before hand. That took a long time but made it very easy later.

Frank

 

[Holzhacker]

As John mentioned always read the manufacturer's installation manual for info.
Beyond that, thinset should work fine for this type of application; all I've ever used but I have not used this particular stone. If you mix your thinset properly 'stick' should not be a problem. A couple layout thoughts that I use to help with setting and appearance.
- Dont' install the bottom row unless you are sure about level and position. I typically screw or clamp a straight edge at the level of the bottom of the 2nd row and start up from there. That way my tile has a stable base to set from. Any variations at the hearth, floor or stone can be dealt with by cutting the bottom row as needed; rather than those deviations transferring through the entire wall
- Check layout prior to starting; depending on fireplace opening and tile heights you may want to adjust install; i.e. under one set of measurements you may be able to start from the bottom, work up and everything will look fine; in another set of measurements you could end up with a 1" wide piece running along the top of the firebox which would look like crap, in this case it might be better to start at the bottom with a 1/2 stone/tile so that the row along the top of the firebox has some body to it to look good
- depending on install I have also started with a full row along the top of the firebox and then cut everything else from there
The bottom line is do some dry fit layout prior to actually setting tile. Spending time on layout is the difference between a 'oh that's nice' job and a 'wow that looks awesome' job.
- Have a good sponge and clean water with you to immediately wipe up a thinset spooge; much easier than scraping off once dry
- I prefer interweaving corners; straight corner seams can look good or bad depending on product; 45 corners usually don't work well but are feasible; I did a dry stack fireplace surround in an office only a few years ago where the client demanded 45 corners; fairly stupid since the stone sheets were designed to interweave; have to say it looked better though
Hope this helps somewhat

 

[rizzoa13]

If your going to go grout less take the (considerable) extra time to shape pieces to fit with your grinder. We bought the stuff that comes in all different shapes and sizes and you'll still never get it together perfectly. Most of the cuts were just taking material out of the backside of an edge to make them meet up nicely.

We used 90* corners and if they're laid in no discernible pattern it makes the whole thing actually look like it's built from stacked stone! not just faced.

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