How do you store your Incra LS positioner and CMS components?

[supimeister]

Hello all,

I know part of my issue is the fact I am in a small basement shop (8’x10’) coupled with the fact I would really prefer to keep everything mobile/portable since I am in a rental and won’t be here for more than a few more years (aka I am trying to avoid building cabinets/drawers for now).  I have everything in an l-boxx pretty much, which is super convenient.

I would love your ideas on how to store my LS17 positioner + wonder fence and the CMS sliding table.  I would love to be able to keep the CMS sliding table mounted, but it just sticks out too much and gets in the way a lot of the time.  Plus, it is really fast to set up, so I don’t mind having to set it up.

Any ideas?  Even obvious things like “make a wide and deep drawer with cushioning, idiot” lol

Also, I’d like to avoid mounting on the walls if I can since it is a rental...

 

[RC]

I just leave the Incra screwed onto my MFT/3 on its precision plate with the fence down with the table standing on its end in the shed and I remove the MFT-VL with the tool and CMS module in it and the sliding table attachment attached to it and fold that to stand next to the MFT.

They fit fairly well in a 2m2 space with all the other stuff I have in there. See below the chaos of my shed  [scared]

[attachimg=1]

 

[teocaf]

when i was in a small shop i made a sturdy tall table that i could slide some equipment under using those caster sets that you can make your own custom sized base.  that gives you protection for the incra that stays mounted to the mft.  the mft would be on this thick ply base with the casters and that would give you extra storage on the base itself under the mft.  plus you get to put stuff on the tall table and/or use it as a workbench.

i would not hesitate to hang stuff on the walls even in a rental.  over the years before i owned my house, i've gotten really good at finding the studs, using really good anchors and then patching up the evidence real tidy before moving out.  it's a good skill to work at.

you did not mention height of area.  another option might be to attach anchors and pulleys to the beams behind the ceiling and pull the mft up on cables and then tuck the legs under it--with utmost care and redundant safety system of course--but it's not really all that hard.

as for reiska's shop:  dude, you're a woodworker with some nice precision tools--build some hangers and shelves for goodness sake!  that shed though small, still looks like it has some great potential for efficient use of space.  i'm not a neat freak but that did make me cringe...    each to his own i guess

 

[RC]

I would if the darn shed had any weather sealing and heating to it. My tools are due to move back into the house in a few weeks with the autumn fog and humidity rolling in as we speak. That shed doesn't have but a few planks on top of soil for a floor, a slightly leaky roof on top and boards so weathered as walls that screws don't stay in them anymore (it was built in 1973 originally and someone has just slapped new boards on top of the original ones about 15 years ago).

The shelves to the left are full of my wife's gardening stuff and some oddball tools that I don't care if they get wet or not and on the wall to the right are hanging all sorts of other gardening utilities like axes, shovels, etc. In the picture I'm standing outside taking the picture and my clamps are populating the last wall bit next to the door on the left and the back wall is pretty much inaccessible since I have to store my summer/winter tires and roof racks somewhere and they are in the back corner in a big tower.

What you see in the picture is the summer time 'shove the tools out of the rain after using them behind a locked door as quickly as possible in as large modules as possible to make rebuild as effortless as possible the next day'. As most know I have to set up on the uncovered deck just outside the shed when I make something so it literally is just a corner to shove stuff out of the rain.

As it stands the shed is due for replacement/rebuild in two years time by the housing complex we live in so I don't want to put money into fixing things just before the old one is demoed.

Can't wait for the new ones to come up to fit some heating into the new shed and if possible put some windows into it as well and maybe expand it to at least double size if the housing complex gives permission to be different. (which I doubt, but one has to dream, right?)

 

[bkharman]

If you have the LR32 and the 20mm Festool bit, you can make some nice wall panels with 20mm holes.  I have a few to store dogs and clamps and such.  I also have one to attach my LS to (like Reiska... with the Precision Plate) and hang from the wall.  My wall is just studs, so I can reach back and put on a few threads of a knob so it doesn't drop to the floor!

for me to remove and put back on the MFT is all under 1 minute.

Bryan

 

[supimeister]

Well, a lot of kaizen and some time, and viola! 

[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
[attachimg=3]
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Granted, I need to put these in drawers of sorts (and perhaps that was pulling the cart before the horse) - but it may push me over to imitate some of the mft/3 workcenter and/or miter saw station designs I have seen here

For now, a lot of them are just sitting on top of my stacks of l-boxxes and others are under my cms-vl

the seneca parallel guides are waiting for an addition 12 or 18” incra t-track plus I think
[attachimg=5]

 

[adugas]

Did a bit of clean up in my shop and found an indeed set of shelf hangers so I put them to use. Thought it turned out OK for now.
The mft and cms-vl ate located right below (not in picture)

 

[Mismarked]

Does anyone who has an LS positioner and wonder fence see any problem hanging the assembled unit against the wall using two supports under the wonder fence?  My only concern is that the unit is fairly heavy, and I don't want to risk warping the fence over time.  It seems sturdy enough, but I don't want to guess wrong.

 

[greg mann]

To alleviate your concerns just put your two supports reasonably close to the positioner rather than out near the ends of the fence. You need to bend the fence past the material yield point to permanently distort it anyway and I don’t see that happening with what you want to do.

Note these two sentences would make more sense if you read the first one last. [oops]