How soft is the "super soft" pad for the ETS150?

rnt80

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I'm helping my oldest son make a shield.  The shield is curved (it consists of nine 2" strips angled at 8 degrees on one side and all glued together) and we spent some time this afternoon sanding the outside smooth.  I started sanding the inside which is a little tougher since the standard pad on my ets150 doesn't have enough flexibility to match the contour of the shield.  Just how soft is the super soft pad?  Does it offer quite a bit of flexibility over the standard pad?
 
I would say in your case....no. It is softer and "fatter" but wont exactly bend to curves in wood. I found it does help with subtle dips and such but not serious cups in the wood. You could always buy it and try it and use the 30 day deal, it is a nice pad to have regardless.
Plus I think the paper has a lot to do with how well it will contour to the wood.

Rubin is pretty stiff stuff.
 
The application interface pad is more flexible for contouring shapes like that. It's basically like a 5/8" (roughly the thickness) foam pad.  I used it when I was sanding down an antique milk can to repaint for my wife. Handled that tight curved surface well. Used it with Saphir, which is stiffer than Rubin.

Edit: I should add that I have not specifically tried it on an concave surface. Maybe we have a member who has...
 
Shane Holland said:
The application pad is more flexible for contouring shapes like that. It's basically like a 5/8" (roughly the thickness) foam pad.  I used it when I was sanding down an antique milk can to repaint for my wife. Handled that tight curved surface well. Used it with Saphir, which is stiffer than Rubin.

Shane, what part number is that?  I took a quick peek on Bob's site and couldn't find it?
 
Sorry, I called it by the wrong name anyway, it's name is the interface pad. Not sure where I got application from... Oh well.

Product # 496647 (150mm)
Product # 492271 (125mm)
 
Maybe a slight tilt will do the trick. I don't know how fast the rim of the pad or the paper will wear down.
 
I have no experience with your sander; but have the RO 150.  (I have posted something like this before)  When i got the sander, i did not know anything about varying stifness of pads.  Mine, as it turned out, had the softest pad.  I had been using it mostly for sanding hardwoods with no problems.  If sanding softer woods, I still had no problems.
Eventually, i found myself sanding down a rough surfaced lazy susan.  The center piece was a 3" square of black locust with a very solid  hard knot taking up most of the center of the square.  Around the knotty locust  were two pieces of red oak and two pieces of white pine arranged in opposing corners.  I was having trouble getting the three different woods (from extreme hard to very soft) to smooth out evenly.  finally, i noticed I was making some serious cupping in the soft pine. I do not have a belt sander (to many bad experiences with my old one), or a drum sander, so I sent out my SOS to the FOG.  Some kind soul (as all FOGGERS seem to be) informed me that I was probably using the soft pad and i should try the hard pad.  An hour and a half round trip to my local toy store and mounting the new hard pad to my RO 150, and a few minutes to level out the rough spots and a lot more time to bring the hard woods down to level with the soft woods and I have never gone back to the soft pad.  I do have a couple of projects in mind for this upcoming winter season where I am quite sure the old soft pad will come in handy.  The amount of concave curve I will be trying, I am sure will be sandable with the RO 150. 
If to tight a depression for my sander, I will keep checking back to find out how you managed your project.  I am stuck on this slippery slope and continue to find ways to get sucked down deeper and deeperanddeeperanddeeper.
Tinker
 
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