How square are your clamps?

[luvmytoolz]

Sliding on the glue, which seems to have exceptional lubricity, is a problem I have experienced.  An easy fix is one given to me from a old timer.

Before I apply the glue, I use a brad pusher to press into place a few very small wire brads on the glue surface. I then take an end nipper to trim those brads within 1/8” - 1/16” of the surface.

Those brads need to be placed in spots that are accessible to clamping pressure.

I apply the glue and position the mating piece. The sharp trimmed ends of the wire brads prevent the pieces from sliding.  After the pieces are properly positioned, I clamp over the brads and over any additional places as required.

For applying trim, I place the brads as required.  Smaller profiles need more frequent brads.

These brads are hidden and serve no joint function other than positioning.  So even those purists who object to metal fasteners, can feel comfortable with this process.

That's exactly how I make my large door stop blocks. Saves so much time and effort, makes life so much easier!

 

[Packard]

For those not familiar with the prehistoric technology of the brad pusher, I am showing this video.  It shows how the brad pusher works, but I find that making your own brads is fairly absurd.  Buy a pack of 1/2” or 5/8” brads.

Also, it states that brad pushers are $10.00.  My first one cost $2.98.  You can buy a Great Neck Saw version for $15.00.  You can spend as much as $50.00 for one.

I’ve never worn one out or broken one.  But I have managed to lose (probably) four of them.  So I always buy the cheapest one I can find.

In some tight situations it is preferable to a nailer, especially in softer woods.  After pushing in the brad, a nail set drives it home.

But for gluing purposes, you only have to push in about 1/4” and then trim.

 

[Mini Me]

Sliding on the glue, which seems to have exceptional lubricity, is a problem I have experienced.  An easy fix is one given to me from a old timer.

Before I apply the glue, I use a brad pusher to press into place a few very small wire brads on the glue surface. I then take an end nipper to trim those brads within 1/8” - 1/16” of the surface.

Those brads need to be placed in spots that are accessible to clamping pressure.

I apply the glue and position the mating piece. The sharp trimmed ends of the wire brads prevent the pieces from sliding.  After the pieces are properly positioned, I clamp over the brads and over any additional places as required.

For applying trim, I place the brads as required.  Smaller profiles need more frequent brads.

These brads are hidden and serve no joint function other than positioning.  So even those purists who object to metal fasteners, can feel comfortable with this process.

It is way easier to use less glue, if there is any squeeze out then too much has been used and a slightly delay will also help though that naturally happens on more complicated glue ups.

 

[luvmytoolz]

It is way easier to use less glue, if there is any squeeze out then too much has been used and a slightly delay will also help though that naturally happens on more complicated glue ups.

That might be good for 1 on 1 glue up's, although most ordinary clamps will still pull as they tighten because they have inherent flex or slight mis-alignment when tightened, but as I glue lots of small blanks up in stacks there's no minimum or maximum amount of glue that will stop them sliding. And with Titebond you can't really leave it to set a bit in this case as you will end up with minuscule but very noticeable gaps, to my eyes anyway.

 

[usernumber1]

Does anyone use the old salt trick to stop glue joints from sliding?

 

[luvmytoolz]

Does anyone use the old salt trick to stop glue joints from sliding?

Yep, very effective, If i'm not turning or cutting in a way that will hit it I'll use sand instead. For multi-blank glueups works a treat. For 1 to 1 or 2 way glueups I use the brads when possible.

 

[Packard]

In my opinion, anyone who thinks he can apply the exact correct amount of glue without any squeeze-out is deceiving himself.

I had an old-timer picture  framer working for me who knew the exact correct amount of glue to use in the miters with no squeeze-out, but when I broke open his glue-ups, there was invariably some amount of glue void, thus compromising the joint.  I could not break him of the habit.

After that I only hired people who I would train.

 

[luvmytoolz]

In my opinion, anyone who thinks he can apply the exact correct amount of glue without any squeeze-out is deceiving himself.

I had an old-timer picture  framer working for me who knew the exact correct amount of glue to use in the miters with no squeeze-out, but when I broke open his glue-ups, there was invariably some amount of glue void, thus compromising the joint.  I could not break him of the habit.

After that I only hired people who I would train.

All too common, and I may be wrong but that's why I also coat both sides of everything I glue. I recently pulled apart a unit made by a friend, a few whacks with a hammer popped the sides and top off, and I was able to pull the complete dominos out with pliers. He'd used glue but the joint itself was mostly dry.

 

[ChuckM]

I agree. Squeeze-outs have their function, namely,  showing if enough glue has been applied. The trick is to control the amount of squeeze-out so it isn't excessive leaving a mess to deal with. Experience will help. For structural components, I'd rather see a bit of squeeze-out to reassure myself.

 

[Mini Me]

In my opinion, anyone who thinks he can apply the exact correct amount of glue without any squeeze-out is deceiving himself.

I had an old-timer picture  framer working for me who knew the exact correct amount of glue to use in the miters with no squeeze-out, but when I broke open his glue-ups, there was invariably some amount of glue void, thus compromising the joint.  I could not break him of the habit.

After that I only hired people who I would train.

Quite so but with practise you can get absolutely minimal squeeze out but I see people getting huge amounts. The proof is my glue ups don't slide so I am happy using less glue and delaying clamping a short time.

 

[Packard]

Prior to the early 1980s, picture framers were all using white glue (Elmers) for the miter joints.  White glue, at its best, is a marginal adhesive for that application.

Then Framemica came out with a modern aliphatic glue specially formulated for picture framers called “Corner Weld”.  The open time was probably around one minute, which is plenty of time for picture framers. 

Brush on the glue, place the two moldings to be joined in the underpinner (which has a miter clamp) and step on the pedal. 

The claim was that this was a glue specially formulated to glue end grain to end grain.  For years after I left the framing business I believed that Corner Weld would be stronger than Titebond for that application.

I recently tested and compared the Titebond III vs Cornerweld.  I only made three samples of each (I probably should have made at least 10 of each), but the results were pretty conclusive.  The strength of both were almost the same.

The big difference was the open time.  With Titebond III, the open time was about 10 minutes.  With Cornerweld, if you held the two pieces together, the bond had already have started, and the pieces would hold together with careful handling.  One hour later you could work with the glued pieces.

Cornerweld’s fast set time means it is basically unusable for general woodwork (but perfect for picture framing with available underpinner. 

Sliding of the joint was never an issue.  A damp rag immediately after the joint came out of the underpinner, made quick work of the squeeze out. End grain seems to absorb more glue than face grain, and that probably kept the squeeze out to a minimum.