How to attach 4" Dust Collection Hose to Kapex

[zzzzdoc]

I want to be able to connect my Kapex SCMS to my dust collection system.  Presently, I'm using one of those flexible multi-step reducers, but the fit is way loose and I'm resorting to duct tape.  I'm looking for a snug solution that doesn't disconnect.

When I use it, dust collection does seem much better than with the 27mm hose and my CT22.

What adapters would make this work?  I could reduce the 4" hose  to 2.5" near the Kapex if that would help.

 

[RDMuller]

Reducing the diameter to a smaller size results in decreased performance (it isn't like squeezing a water hose to increase pressure).  Making it fit is one thing, making it perform is another.  The laws of physics are in play here.  The problem is static pressure (resistance) in the system.  Search Google for
woodshop dust collection static pressure
for information on this.  It will work, but not at the level  you are thinking it is going to perform.  I have heard that there is supposed to be some sort of Venturi type of Gizzmo out there that is supposed to help overcome this, but I have never seen it.

 

[Corwin]

If I were you, I would simply connect the Kapex to the CT22 with a larger sized hose, as that alone should be an improvement from using the D27.  But, either way, you will want to have a hose larger than the D27 to connect with either the CT22 or a 4" line from your DC system.  If you do connect to the 4" system, you can get fittings that will step up from a ShopVac to 4" that will allow you to connect to a Festool hose.  Check out the Kapex to Dust Collector Hose and the 50mm Hose to Kapex threads to see how to connect to the Kapex without resorting to duct tape.

 

[zzzzdoc]

Thanks for the responses.

I understand the static pressure issues involved.  However, using the 4" hose from my DC does decrease the static pressure loss from the DC to the Kapex, compared with the 27mm hose on the CT22.  It also allows me to connect to the outside diameter of the Kapex outlet, not the inside, which further increases the effective diameter from the Kapex to the DC.

In practice, many people have said that the 36mm hose works better on the Kapex than the 27mm.  I'm trying to use the outside / not inside diameter of the Kapex to maximize flow.  It sounds like Corwin is on to a solution.  Sounds like I need a 36mm connector to connect to the Kapex, and then increase that to the 4" size.  I'm still a little fuzzy on the connections between the 36 and 50mm hoses.  Also, if you cut the hoses to decrease their length, is it easy to put the connectors back on their ends?

I do have it hooked up presently and it outperforms the 27mm hose.  I'd just like neater connections, and need the proper adapters.  Also, I don't have to lug my CT22 across the shop every time I use the Kapex, so there's a convenience factor too.

 

[semenza]

Thanks for the responses.

I understand the static pressure issues involved.  However, using the 4" hose from my DC does decrease the static pressure loss from the DC to the Kapex, compared with the 27mm hose on the CT22.  It also allows me to connect to the outside diameter of the Kapex outlet, not the inside, which further increases the effective diameter from the Kapex to the DC.

In practice, many people have said that the 36mm hose works better on the Kapex than the 27mm.  I'm trying to use the outside / not inside diameter of the Kapex to maximize flow.  It sounds like Corwin is on to a solution.  Sounds like I need a 36mm connector to connect to the Kapex, and then increase that to the 4" size.  I'm still a little fuzzy on the connections between the 36 and 50mm hoses.  Also, if you cut the hoses to decrease their length, is it easy to put the connectors back on their ends?

I do have it hooked up presently and it outperforms the 27mm hose.  I'd just like neater connections, and need the proper adapters.  Also, I don't have to lug my CT22 across the shop every time I use the Kapex, so there's a convenience factor too.

Yes. The inner most connector piece threads onto the hose ribs. Take one apart and you will see.

Seth

srs

 

[Corwin]

...
I'm still a little fuzzy on the connections between the 36 and 50mm hoses.  Also, if you cut the hoses to decrease their length, is it easy to put the connectors back on their ends?
...

The Festool hose fittings are better understood once you know their terminology.  The fittings that fit into the extractors' inlet ports are called Rotating Connectors.  The fittings that fit into or onto the tools outlet ports are called Reducing Sleeves.  The D27 and D36 hoses are sold with a Rotating Connector on one end and a Reducing Sleeve on the other.  But, they don't offer a tool-end fitting for their D50 hoses, so they are sold with Rotating Connectors on both ends.  They also offer a Connector Sleeve that will accept a Rotating Connector into either end, so that you can connect two hoses together.

So, you can connect the D36 and D50 hoses together by using a Connector Sleeve.  And you can easily trim your hoses to length and install the required fittings as needed.  See this thread,   Fixing a Separated Dust Hose Connection to learn how to disassemble and reassemble these hose fittings.

On Edit:  Here's another post that shows connecting two hoses together;  D36 Antistatic Hose ...

 

[jvsteenb]

I don't own a Kapex, but in my experience most Festools are designed to have their optimum dust extraction when using a high speed low volume extractor ( like the CT's ).
Woodworking shop DC's exhibit a rather different behaviour, with relatively low speed ( and low pressure differential ) but much higher air volume.
It's just a different kind of animal and due to this difference, you may not be able to achieve optimal extraction with a DC (regardless of the reducer)  when the tool is designed to be used with a CT type vacuum in mind.

Regards,

Job

 

[Warrior]

How about using a CT vac and 36mm hose to the connector and then building a shroud connected to your 4" DC system. IMO the dust collection on the Kapex/CT is not efficient enough and I plan on adding a shroud behind to get all the saw dust not collected by the CT. Dont get me wrong the Kapex DC is better than anything else and its great not to have the fines in the air but there is still plenty left behind to coat the workstation in my workshop.

 

[zzzzdoc]

The combo of the 36mm hose and a shroud is definitely my next step.  Going to be a while before I get that up an running, though.  I'm back to the 36mm hose by itself for a while.

 

[ccarrolladams]

My oldest Kapex is the one I pre-ordered when they were introduced in the USA. At the time I did not yet have my shop, but I had been using a CT22 since 2006. Upon the advice of my dealer, Jesse Barragan of Eagle Tools Los Angeles, I bought a 36mm AS hose to connect my Kapex to my CT22. Compared to duct collection from my older miter saw, I felt the Kapex was wonderful.

Once I had bought a large building as my shop, and installed a dust/chip collection system, I bought a second Kapex. That is the one I take out to sites, along with a CT22.

My original Kapex is bolted to a purpose-built set of benches, typical of miter saw installations in shops. The taller sections on either side of the Kapex support the work. The section supporting the Kapex is lower such that the bed of the saw is level with the side supports. Behind the Kapex is a shroud, like those typically used for miter/cut-off saws, which is connected via 100mm hose to the shop DC. Parked under the bench to the right of the Kapex is a CT22, connected to the saw with a 36mm AS hose. That vac is plugged into a dedicated 20a 120v 1 phase outlet.

I am very happy with the dust collection. I am looking for a device that will provide a similar high velocity suction as a CT22 which would discharge into the shop DC system. Once I have that it will free up a CT22.

By the way, along that same wall I have 2 other saws, a 14" radial arm and a 12" slider/miter. Both of those have a shroud behind them. All three of those saws have their uses.

 

[Wonderwino]

I have used rubber "no-hub" plumbing fittings to make "waterproof" connections between different sized hoses.  They are available in a variety of single and reducing diameters.  Just tighten the supplied hose clamp, and the rubber constricts around the pipe or hose.  [cool]