How to buff out scratches resulting from big tree limb falling on car

Peter_C said:
Just a thought, but by the time you buy everything to do the job you could have paid someone to polish it that knows exactly what they are doing. There is a lot to know, speeds, pressure, which polish to use, how fast to keep it moving. If you do want to undertake it watch a bunch of videos from youtube.

Plus One on that.

Unless you want to start a new hobby just go to work and pay the 150.00 for a buff job(no pun intended) that would  take you weeks to figure out how to do.

There is a "knack" to buffing. I suggest spending your free time woodworking.

 
Here's my counter point.  If you own and care about your cars, this won't be a one time need.  And once you get comfortable and see what kind of shine you can put on that paint, you might even be inclined to go to town on the rest of the car.  The largest investment is in the polisher, and if you already have an RO150, that's not an issue.  As a woodworker, you already have some familiarity with the skills required.  Sure, paint is different from wood, but the concept is entirely similar.  Reduce the scratch pattern until you can no longer see it.  The products used to achieve that have already been outlined, that's the hardest part if you don't know where to start.  And the products are sufficiently user friendly that you can achieve pro results.  It will just take you more time with repeated passes while you figure out how much is needed to take out a scratch.  A pro will immediately grab the right pad and polish for the job and have this cleaned up in 10 minutes with a 2 step polish.  A beginner might spend an hour fussing with it, next time it will take 30 minutes, etc.  Both will get there.  And as you get more practice, you can use rotex mode to speed things up, but not the first time out. 

The things I've seen a pro do are remove those scratches that your fingernail does catch on, by heating the clearcoat just enough to fill the scratch.  That takes some skill and is not the kind of thing a DIYer should attempt. 

If this was one of my coworkers, I would recommend they find a GOOD detailer.  They would be starting from zero, no tools, no knowledge, no supplies.  Equally, if you take no pleasure in polishing paint or don't care much about your car, sure, pay someone to do it or leave it be. 
 
RKA said:
The camera focused on the shrubs not the scratch, but if your fingernail isn't catching, it's just a surface blemish.  Easy to work out.

Thanks for your insight and suggestions on how to fix this. I my give it a go or maybe end up contacting you. I'm in SNJ about 25 miles from the Del. Memorial Bridge.
 
RKA has posted some great info here!  [thumbs up]

As he said there are numerous companies and products.

I have used Griot's Garage products for years.  I have their polisher but prefer the RO150.  Their pads fit and adhere to the hook and loop.

If anyone is interested in at least learning about polishing, here is a link that will offer info no matter what brand or machine you are using:  https://www.griotsgarage.com/category/how+to/how+to+polish.do

Peter
 
There's a good set of posts by Dan Clark over on TalkFestool on the Rotex and car care...

Might be of help.  I've had very good success with the Rotex and Griots products as well.  I've also used the Festool polishing compound on tougher scratches on both furniture and my cars.  Take your time, but it's amazing what you can do with a little time and practice -

Part 1 is here -http://www.talkfestool.com/vb/other-projects/1873-polishing-your-car-rotex-part-1-a.html

Part 2 is here -http://www.talkfestool.com/vb/other-projects/1874-polishing-your-car-rotex-part-2-a.html

 
Thanks Neil!  I went to look for those yesterday and had issues.

Peter
 
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