How to clean tools before selling

dawatson833

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Oct 5, 2020
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I'm reconfiguring my tool inventory and selling a few tools.  They have minimal use, but still want to clean the grips and hard plastic on a ti18 drill, tid impact and psc 420 carvex.  Any suggestions on how to clean them and what to avoid.
 
[member=5277]Alex[/member] has given some good suggestions in the past that I can't find  [huh]

He'll see this and maybe make some suggestions.

Ron
 
As fare as I know the Festool service cleans the onside of the tools with Dry-ice blasting. The method is non abrasive and the tools look nearly as new after it. 
 
Paint thinner / lacquer thinner works great. You'll get all the grease, paint and glue off your tools.
 
My first step would be to use some Dawn dishwashing soap and water.  On plastic parts that is usually enough. 

To clean wood, I like to use a Swiffer Wet pad.  It does a decent job of cleaning and does not harm any finish. 

Rubbing alcohol is my next step. I prefer 70° over 90° because it evaporates slower and so allows the alcohol to work longer. 
 
Alex said:
Paint thinner / lacquer thinner works great. You'll get all the grease, paint and glue off your tools.

I don't know how it works there, but here in the US, paint thinner is a very vague term. It is usually mineral spirits, but may also contain small amounts of Naptha, Acetone, Xylene, Benzene, etc. in all kinds of combinations. Some of these are to change the way it works, speed of evaporation, etc. So you have to test it before use on plastics, or stick with Mineral Spirits. I think they call it White spirits in the UK, but I don't know about anywhere else in the world?

Lacquer thinner is not one specific thing either. It is a much more harsh combination of the additives listed above without the mineral spirits to dilute it. The blends are usually to change the characteristics of how it works. Some of which depend upon what you are actually thinning with it, or if you just need it as a solvent to clean up with. It can be very damaging to some plastics, while doing absolutely nothing to others. Some of the cheaper blends can contain alcohol too.
Polypropylene like glue bottles, it does nothing.
Styrene will get turned back into the liquid it started out as.
 
Thanks for the replies.  Will just use water and a small amount of dawn.  They are not that dirty.
Mostly wanted to find what I should avoid.
 
Crazyraceguy said:
Alex said:
Paint thinner / lacquer thinner works great. You'll get all the grease, paint and glue off your tools.

I don't know how it works there, but here in the US, paint thinner is a very vague term. It is usually mineral spirits, but may also contain small amounts of Naptha, Acetone, Xylene, Benzene, etc. in all kinds of combinations. Some of these are to change the way it works, speed of evaporation, etc. So you have to test it before use on plastics, or stick with Mineral Spirits. I think they call it White spirits in the UK, but I don't know about anywhere else in the world?

Lacquer thinner is not one specific thing either. It is a much more harsh combination of the additives listed above without the mineral spirits to dilute it. The blends are usually to change the characteristics of how it works. Some of which depend upon what you are actually thinning with it, or if you just need it as a solvent to clean up with. It can be very damaging to some plastics, while doing absolutely nothing to others. Some of the cheaper blends can contain alcohol too.
Polypropylene like glue bottles, it does nothing.
Styrene will get turned back into the liquid it started out as.

Yes, that's the stuff, contains things like xylene, toluene or acetone.

We simply call it "Thinner" over here. Since we speak Dutch here, the word thinner isn't used for anything else and everybody knows what I'm talking about. But I understand how broad the meaning of that word is in the English speaking world.

The subject of cleaning tools or systainers has come up before quite a few times here. I was told the stuff is often called lacquer thinner in the States.

And yes, it can dissolve some types of plastic. But not tool plastic, that is stronger. You must only avoid the black part of your CT vacs, that is ABS.
 
dawatson833 said:
Mostly wanted to find what I should avoid.

Avoid GOOF OFF, it can melt some plastics because it contains both Acetone & Xylene. Also, it will not melt some plastics but it will turn the surface chalky and then you'll have to solve that issue.
 
I would add that if there are any raw (unplated) steel parts after cleaning, that you should wipe it down with WD-40 to prevent rust.  A really good cleaning will leave steel very susceptible to rust which can form in hours or just a few days.

I recall my friend's Corvette front rotors getting rusted on a damp day in just four hours.  Wipe off most of the WD-40 to leave just a very thin film.
 
Cheese said:
Avoid GOOF OFF, it can melt some plastics because it contains both Acetone & Xylene. Also, it will not melt some plastics but it will turn the surface chalky and then you'll have to solve that issue.

Yes, and to add to this, "Goof Off" and "Goo Gone" look like competing products- but they are NOT the same.  Not even close.

Goo Gone is about as safe as they get.  Goof Off will destroy stuff.
 
Alex said:
Yes, that's the stuff, contains things like xylene, toluene or acetone.

We simply call it "Thinner" over here. Since we speak Dutch here, the word thinner isn't used for anything else and everybody knows what I'm talking about. But I understand how broad the meaning of that word is in the English speaking world.

The subject of cleaning tools or systainers has come up before quite a few times here. I was told the stuff is often called lacquer thinner in the States.

And yes, it can dissolve some types of plastic. But not tool plastic, that is stronger. You must only avoid the black part of your CT vacs, that is ABS.

I realize that we have gone a bit past the scope of the original post, but this a quite complex and interesting subject. In general we are talking about oil based paint that would be used on furniture, cabinetry, etc. Which is the point of "paint thinner" is the first place, to thin paint that is too thick/viscous to apply properly (or clean the tools afterward) because it desolves/melts the paint.

Lacquer thinner is effectively the same thing for lacquer paints or clear coats.

Where is gets funny is with automotive type paint. Urethanes do not have a "thinner". They use what is called a "reducer". Which sounds silly, because something that reduces thickness/viscosity seems like a thinner? But there is a point to it. The reducer is not a solvent for the paint. Meaning that it will reduce the thickness, but it will not desolve the paint itself, once it is dry. That's an important distinction that is made with words that are not self-explanatory.

Plastics are so variable that it takes a real expert to be sure how they will react. I'm not even close to that, which is why I'm always cautious with solvents of any kind. Most of the time, you know pretty quickly, but I have seen others where it seemed ok and then later something happened.
 
Those "Mr Clean Erasers" are surprisingly very good at getting scuffs and paint/finish off of tools of various plastics and other finishes without affecting the tool itself.
 
That's exactly the reason why I do like those automotive cleaners. They have been developed to handle plastics safely. I haven't had any trouble with dissolving or deteriorating plastic since I've started using this stuff. But [member=297]Michael Kellough[/member] is right: the stuff does expire. I must admit I have used it way after such a date and luckily never had trouble because of it, but I can't promise this will always work out. Dunno...  [unsure]
 
It struck me just now, but kudos to [member=74064]dawatson833[/member] for wanting to have clean tools for sale.  I'm sure that just about anyone who has purchased used tools can appreciate how some listings or items have stood out over time for being completely filthy.

It's one thing to have tools that have been used; after all, that's their purpose.  It's like a friend of mine said all the time about motorcycles: "a dirty bike is a happy bike".  But that doesn't mean you shouldn't at least hose the thing off if you're going to try to sell it.  Same with tools.  Take 5 seconds and at least vacuum the sawdust out of the systainer and brush off the tool itself.

Also, it's a good discussion and reminder of what can or can't be used on various plastics and rubber surfaces.
 
I'm kind of in the "Used doesn't have to look it" camp. As most of you know, I work in a cabinet shop and my tools get used very regularly. Everything gets blown off, cleaned up and put away, either right after use or at the end of the day. Other than some slight polishing that handles/grips get from being used, you would never know by how they look. Part of it is just me being me. I treat things well, expecting them to work as intended, and last as long as possible. Taking care of tools can only be good for them. Granted, everything I have now is just over 2 1/2 years old, but it was the same way before.
As they sit right now, you could open any of my systainers and the only reason that you would now that they weren't fresh off of the shelf is that there are bits in the routers and more sandpaper than comes with the sanders, oh and the Domino bags are opened.
My bicycles are clean too.... :o
 
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