how to cut bakelite?
- Thread starter stefano
- Start date
Are you talking about fabric reinforced phenolic sheets?
Molded Bakelite is extremely brittle. The phenolic sheets are extremely dimensionally stable.
The tool room where I used to work, routinely cut it with a band saw. It was the only saw readily available in a tool and die shop.
I understood that the phenolic is very hard and will wear out steel blades quickly. You will want to use carbide tipped cutting tools when available.
YouTube has several videos showing how to cut, drill, tap and machine phenolic sheets.
Do note that there are many grades of phenolic sheets, I believe based on the reinforcing fabric. We used cotton fabric reinforced sheets. It is the lowest cost of the bunch and extremely flat and stable. It appears to be unaffected by temperature changes and changes in humidity.
Some vendors of phenolic sheets will cut the blank to size. But I don’t know to what tolerance they hold. I think this is more about shipping than creating cut to size components.
Here is my YouTube search:
http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=cutting+and+machining+phenolic+sheets
Molded Bakelite is extremely brittle. The phenolic sheets are extremely dimensionally stable.
The tool room where I used to work, routinely cut it with a band saw. It was the only saw readily available in a tool and die shop.
I understood that the phenolic is very hard and will wear out steel blades quickly. You will want to use carbide tipped cutting tools when available.
YouTube has several videos showing how to cut, drill, tap and machine phenolic sheets.
Do note that there are many grades of phenolic sheets, I believe based on the reinforcing fabric. We used cotton fabric reinforced sheets. It is the lowest cost of the bunch and extremely flat and stable. It appears to be unaffected by temperature changes and changes in humidity.
Some vendors of phenolic sheets will cut the blank to size. But I don’t know to what tolerance they hold. I think this is more about shipping than creating cut to size components.
Here is my YouTube search:
http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=cutting+and+machining+phenolic+sheets
Thank you so much Packard for your detailed answer.
The sheets I was thinking about are the ones with a cotton fabric reinforced with phenolic resin as you guest.
it was in my mind to get one of those CMT saw blades especially designed for a steel or for non ferrous and melamine materials. There are even with cement carbide
Do you think it will wort?
The sheets I was thinking about are the ones with a cotton fabric reinforced with phenolic resin as you guest.
it was in my mind to get one of those CMT saw blades especially designed for a steel or for non ferrous and melamine materials. There are even with cement carbide
Do you think it will wort?
MikeGE
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bobtskutter
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Please be aware that OLD bakelite may contain asbestos fibers as the reinforcement.
Stay safe
Bob
Stay safe
Bob
Crazyraceguy
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As has been stated, it cuts, drills, etc with most woodworking tools, but it can be a bit abrasive. Meaning that carbide cutters are much better. High speed steel, like drill bits, jigsaw blades etc will show some wear after use. Heat is the real enemy here, long jigsaw cuts may not go so well. A bi-metal blade intended for thick metal (coarse teeth) will likely serve you best.
It can be drilled/tapped, but don't even think about trying to put a screw into it.
This is somewhat dependent on the thickness of the material. The 4mm sheet that [member=70363]MikeGE[/member] mentioned, should be pretty easy. The stuff I have the most experience with is 1/2"
It can be drilled/tapped, but don't even think about trying to put a screw into it.
This is somewhat dependent on the thickness of the material. The 4mm sheet that [member=70363]MikeGE[/member] mentioned, should be pretty easy. The stuff I have the most experience with is 1/2"
I’m retired now, so all of t his is in past tense.
Our tool and die makers used to use all the metal cutting equipment (that is all we had) to cut, drill, and machine the phenolic sheet.
Our milling machine pumped water soluble oil over the cutting surface. The water soluble oil both lubricated and cooled the work surface. I think they could have turned off the pump, but they always left it on.
I don’t know if it aided the machining process, but the phenolic is water-proof, so it did no harm.
If you are making a router plate, you will have several holes to drill and the larger hole for the router bit access. That larger hole would be the only bit of “cutting” that would concern me. I would probably cut that with a hole saw. Hole saws get hot cutting wood, so they probably get really hot for phenolic. It would not hurt to drip some water on the hole saw teeth as you are cutting that hole.
Our tool and die makers used to use all the metal cutting equipment (that is all we had) to cut, drill, and machine the phenolic sheet.
Our milling machine pumped water soluble oil over the cutting surface. The water soluble oil both lubricated and cooled the work surface. I think they could have turned off the pump, but they always left it on.
I don’t know if it aided the machining process, but the phenolic is water-proof, so it did no harm.
If you are making a router plate, you will have several holes to drill and the larger hole for the router bit access. That larger hole would be the only bit of “cutting” that would concern me. I would probably cut that with a hole saw. Hole saws get hot cutting wood, so they probably get really hot for phenolic. It would not hurt to drip some water on the hole saw teeth as you are cutting that hole.
Packard said:
This morning I had a chat with one of the CMT technical support and he suggested to me to use a specifically HPL and Laminated (CMT 281.766.52H) saw blade and/or a blade with a DP teeth for ultra hard materials (CMT 236.165.10H) that will last longer than carbide one.
Make it any sense for your personal experience?
If this type of work is to appear regularly, yes.
But if this is one-and-done, and you are making 3 or 4 cuts, I would say it probably an unnecessary expense.
There are carbide blades designed for non-ferrous metals (typically brass or aluminum), but to chop an aluminum extrusion a while back, I used a fine toothed carbide cross cut blade. There was no apparent damage to the blade. There was some burrs at the cut though.
How often do you predict you will be cutting the Bakelite?
But if this is one-and-done, and you are making 3 or 4 cuts, I would say it probably an unnecessary expense.
There are carbide blades designed for non-ferrous metals (typically brass or aluminum), but to chop an aluminum extrusion a while back, I used a fine toothed carbide cross cut blade. There was no apparent damage to the blade. There was some burrs at the cut though.
How often do you predict you will be cutting the Bakelite?
Cheese
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stefano said:
I've used the 4 tooth version (CMT 236.160.04H) of that PCD diamond blade in my TSC for cutting Hardie Board & Hardie Plank. It works well and was about half of the price of the Festool version. My only concern would be if it produces more dust than chips.
If this is an on-going project, then the PCD blade will give you good blade life. I read that a PCD blade will outlast a carbide blade by 25 or more times.
If you can provide the information, what is the application? What made you thing that phenolic sheet is the ideal material for this application? How do you plan on joining panels, etc.
I had assumed that you were making a router insert, but clearly that is not the case.
What operations beyond cutting will you be performing on the phenolic?
We used the phenolic primarily for resistance welding fixtures. Because of its dielectric properties (a very poor conductor of electricity).
I had assumed that you were making a router insert, but clearly that is not the case.
What operations beyond cutting will you be performing on the phenolic?
We used the phenolic primarily for resistance welding fixtures. Because of its dielectric properties (a very poor conductor of electricity).
Crazyraceguy
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Personally, I wouldn't use a holesaw in phenolic. If you have one in the size you need, cut the hole in a piece of scrap and use that as a template for a router. You will get a far nicer cut and not burn your holesaw to the ground. win-win
Stick with a high tooth-count blade. That stuff is so hard that you really aren't cutting it. This is more of a "controlled break" situation. Coarse blades will cause chipping on the back side of the cut.
Stick with a high tooth-count blade. That stuff is so hard that you really aren't cutting it. This is more of a "controlled break" situation. Coarse blades will cause chipping on the back side of the cut.
