How to cut crown moulding etc.

[woodwreck]

I assume the obvious answer to how to cut crown moulding is use of the two #494369 moulding stops on the side extensions. Does anyone have another method, given
A) the two stops cost $170 combined, and
B) the two side extensions mount 11" out from the blade making it necessary to cut a piece a foot longer then the desired short cut segment, and then cut it to length.

Any unique methods or ideas welcome.

TIA

WW

 

[danrush]

I happen to favor the "nested" position you describe.  Once the crown is nested and in position, the only variable needed is the actual miter cut required.

However, a lot of guys have great success cutting crown "on the flats"  meaning using the compound features of the saw to cut miters with the crown laying flat, face up on the saw's table.  But using this method, there are two variables:  The miter AND the proper bevel to create the cut.  More steps, but no need for the crown stops.

Dan

 

[Rob-GB]

With regard to cutting on the flat:-

I am not great at rememering math formula's etc so I have an Excel Spreadsheet set up with my most used ones. Anyone know how I could upload the compound mitre for crown moulding section to the forum?
Also the math for it all is on the late Joe Fusco's excellent website, probably a better option than mine, too. Brice posted a link the other day.

Rob.

EDIT: Brice's post is here http://festoolownersgroup.com/member-connections/joe-fusco/

 

[bonesbr549]

You could always cut the crown on the flat.  Go to youtube and search for cutting crown and there are tons of vids.  Joe Fusco had some good ones.  Sadly he passed away.  Youtube is your friend! 

 

[bjackson3]

You can very easily make up a simple box to hold the crown nested.  Screw this box to your fence and now you have a zero clearance crown cutting jig that can easily cut small pieces.  I don't have a pic of one but I'm sure someone here does.  We don't all always use factory crown stops.

 

[Rhett]

The old fashioned way to cut crown is upside down and backwards on the flat. The miter is 31.62* and the compound is usually 45* (there is usually a hard stop for it on the miter saw). This is how I learned, but that was before the double compound saws were out. Cut the right side right side up and the left side upside down (because you couldn't compound the other way). I haven't cut crown in a bit so make a couple of test cuts to make sure I didn't confuse the right and left order but with a double compound it makes it a lot easier.

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

Clamp a board on the table of the saw to make your own stops.

Used to make my own stops for every saw I had.

I love the stops on the Kapex, worth every penny they cost and all I have to do is bolt them on.

Cut it nested and upside down and backwards, there that should confuse you.

 

[peter halle]

When cutting crown, if you can cut using the nested method, then do so.  The size of your crown will come into play.  If you are cutting 3 5/8 crown or 4 5/8 crown you should be able to do it on most saws.  If you go larger than that you might have to resort to cutting it on the flat.  The other advantage is that you don't need to know the spring angle of the crown.  Crown is usually available in two varieties.  There is the 45 - 45 variety and the 38 - 52 variety.  If you use the nested version, you don't need to know the spring angle.  If you cut it on the flat, the miter and bevel change between the two.

The crown stops for the Kapex are well made but pricey in my opinion - I considered buying them last week when I bought my Kapex.  I was in the middle of a crown molding install.  I personally didn't like the wide stance of the stops once installed.  Short cuts would be an issue, or more waste than I am used to.  I had a setup done for my previous saw and finished using that.  I have another install Friday and will use those again.  After that?

I posted in another thread about starting work on a fence system for my uses on my Kapex.  Many here would like to just buy something off the shelf.  I want something that fits my budget and accomplishes my goals, and right now I don't think there is something out there for me.  Even Gary Katz, when he does his Roadshow presentations uses his homebuilt stand designed for the Kapex.

Peter

 

[harry_]

If I posted this right, this is what you want for cutting crown on the flat. I keep a laminated copy in my toolbox in case of emergencies

 

[Rob-GB]

I understand both sides of the , buy a manufactured or make your own, debate. I have been down both roads.
In europe, crown mouldings are pretty much teamed with kitchen cabinets and built in furniture. Room's are often crown moulded with manufactured plaster coving or ornate mouldings.
Off the shelf mouldings can vary in their 'spring angle' depending on manufacturer, so making a jig to suit each one is time consuming and gets expensive.
A bought in 'jig' that handles a wide variation and is easy to set up is a big time/cost saver. Hence the Festool engineers design.
Knowing how to work out the compound mitre angles to be able to cut them on the panel saw or mitre saw is the other option, and one I have found to be of most use. Though I need access to my spreadsheet to get the math sorted without having to read up how it is done, yet again! [embarassed]
Each has it's role dependant on your needs.

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

When cutting crown, if you can cut using the nested method, then do so.  The size of your crown will come into play.  If you are cutting 3 5/8 crown or 4 5/8 crown you should be able to do it on most saws.  If you go larger than that you might have to resort to cutting it on the flat.  The other advantage is that you don't need to know the spring angle of the crown.  Crown is usually available in two varieties.  There is the 45 - 45 variety and the 38 - 52 variety.  If you use the nested version, you don't need to know the spring angle.  If you cut it on the flat, the miter and bevel change between the two.

The crown stops for the Kapex are well made but pricey in my opinion - I considered buying them last week when I bought my Kapex.  I was in the middle of a crown molding install.  I personally didn't like the wide stance of the stops once installed.  Short cuts would be an issue, or more waste than I am used to.  I had a setup done for my previous saw and finished using that.  I have another install Friday and will use those again.  After that?

I posted in another thread about starting work on a fence system for my uses on my Kapex.  Many here would like to just buy something off the shelf.  I want something that fits my budget and accomplishes my goals, and right now I don't think there is something out there for me.  Even Gary Katz, when he does his Roadshow presentations uses his homebuilt stand designed for the Kapex.

Peter

I don't have anymore waste using my kapex then I did with my bosch or makita.

Feed from the left or right to minimize your scraps.

I need to add the price of the crown stops to my price list in that other thread..

 

[peter halle]

Here is a short YouTube video:  Gary Katz Crown Intro

 

[fshanno]

Bench Dog makes a crown stop jig that runs about 30$.  I don't have one but some people seem to like it.  They have a number of cool tools including anything you might want for you router table.

 

[Rick Christopherson]

With regard to cutting on the flat:-

I am not great at rememering math formula's etc so I have an Excel Spreadsheet set up with my most used ones. Anyone know how I could upload the compound mitre for crown moulding section to the forum?
Also the math for it all is on the late Joe Fusco's excellent website, probably a better option than mine, too. Brice posted a link the other day.

Rob.

EDIT: Brice's post is here http://festoolownersgroup.com/member-connections/joe-fusco/

Here's a novel thought, download the Festool Kapex manual and use the built-in compound angle calculator right in the manual.  [eek]  [big grin]

Kapex Supplemental Manual