How to cut miters on Kapex

[Intex]

If I need to cut miters on 1/2" walnut stock, approx 2.5" - 3" high, Is it best to put the stock vertically on the miter saw and cut at a 45 degree angle, or  , place the wood flat on the miter saw, and angle the saw blade 45 degrees off vertical to cut the miter ?

 

[nclemmons]

You can do either.

When you tilt the saw you COULD get some deflection due to motor weight.  I personally like to make to cut these cuts with the wood upright rather than flat.  Easier for me to rotate the saw than tilt it since tilting usually means moving the fence due to clearance.

Try both and check with an accurate bevel gauge. 

 

[RKA]

For longer stock I tend to cut it flat on the table and bevel the saw.  This allows me to use the clamp to secure the stock flat to the table.  The excess just hangs off the table and any additional support can be set slightly lower than the saw table (the slight bow in the stock is insignificant as long as the part on the table is flat against the table itself) without ill effect.  My use case here is baseboard molding, where I've got a 12-16ft length hanging off the left side of the saw table.  If you cut that standing up against the fence, you have to provide support for the stock that's dead level with the saw table. 

For a small piece that I could hold flat to the fence and table safely, I would prefer Neil's method. 

 

[sancho57]

I lay the stock flat, use the Kapex clamp, even then push the stock against the fence, pull the saw fwd remember its not a chop saw its a sliding compund saw, and  make your cuts very slow and stand in front of the saw when you make your cut

 

[Intex]

Thank you, I will try the upright method and then check!

 

[Stone Message]

I cut a lot of mitres for box work and always have the stock flat. Technically, if your Kapex is set up perfectly then either method will work but the most consistent approach for me has always been with the stock flat. It is easier (IMHO) to keep the flat stock stable during the cut than it is to do it with it thin side down and sticking up - I know the rear fence should sort this out but I still prefer to rely on the bed of the machine.

Less than 30 minutes ago I cut some mahogany to surround the top of a new (small) bench and I used this method. If anyone has seen my Workshop Notes #22 video then they will have seen the perfect mitres on the portable MFT size bench that I made and these mitres were on 140 mm wide stock.

Peter

 

[ChuckM]

Unless the stock when stood upright exceeds the cutting limit of the saw, I would have the stock held vertically because it is easier to line up the cutline (with the saw teeth or laser). If the stock is too tall to use the hold-down, I can clamp the stock against the fence. Only in a few times did I lay the stock flat and miter it like a bevel.

 

[Master Carpenter]

I would cut with the piece standing up, up to the vertical capacity of the saw. Cutting flat will cause more blade deflection due to greater contact area between blade and wood (more noticeable with hard wood and less than sharp blades).

 

[Jiggy Joiner]

Unless the stock when stood upright exceeds the cutting limit of the saw, I would have the stock held vertically because it is easier to line up the cutline (with the saw teeth or laser). If the stock is too tall to use the hold-down, I can clamp the stock against the fence. Only in a few times did I lay the stock flat and miter it like a bevel.

That’s my rule of thumb with any cross cut miter saw, my first option is nearly always to cut any angles vertically, if the height and shape of the stock allows. Otherwise I clamp flat and use the bevel cut, horizontally.
I also find compound miters easier with the stock laid and clamped flat, using the bevel cut.

I think as long as people keep the method safe, they should use whatever they’re comfortable with.

 

[Stone Message]

I have recently made a set of 6 drawers for the workshop. I used mitres cut on the Kapex. The method is so quick that you can assemble a drawer in less than 3 minutes and it does not require clamping whilst the glue goes off. The method is also very accurate.

Here is the video:


Peter

 

[tjbnwi]

If it is flat stock, set the saw for either a miter or a bevel. Flip the stock instead of moving the saw head.

Tom