JonnyAugust
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Does anyone have a good system for making cope and stick cabinet doors now that the router table was discontinued? Sedge should do a new Friday training!
How to do cope and stick without router table
- Thread starter JonnyAugust
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luvmytoolz
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Funny you posted this, I just came inside for a cuppa as I'm in the middle of making some frames with a CMT Sommerfeld rail and stile panel set.
I'm just routing the cut to size bits of white oak on the MFT with a clamp set and bit of waste wood at each end to not overshoot.
I'm just routing the cut to size bits of white oak on the MFT with a clamp set and bit of waste wood at each end to not overshoot.
Crazyraceguy
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[member=81222]JonnyAugust[/member] why not just make a router table yourself. It really is the best way to cope & stick.
When I was refacing my cabinets, I started by doing cope and stick, but ended up doing mitered corners with dowels (1” long). I expect that dominoes would work as well. Setting the the mortise to be tight on the dominoes will aid in registration.
I used 2-1/2” wide rails and stiles.
The painted finish looked uniform on the mitered corners. The end grain ghosted with the cope and stick.
I used Shaker style for a modern look. Doweled corners made clamping easy.
If you go this route, make a simple fixture to aid in marking the location of the dominoes or dowels. If you do this, all the corners become interchangeable. You will not have to match up corner A with corner A and corner B with corner B, etc.
One piece of off-topic advice: Use cabinet pulls. But note that everyone opens cabinets using the pulls, but using the pulls to close a cabinet is just as important. Consider carefully where people will touch the cabinet to close the doors and place the pulls appropriately.
Because I was refacing cabinets, I could easily see where 20 years of door closings were being touched. I placed the cabient pulls to avoid those touch marks.
The biggest hardware error is the “hidden” pulls. Those pulls only work for opening doors and drawers. The cabinets will look shabby prematurely because every time you close the door or drawer there will be a touch mark. The accumulation of perspiration or hand dirt will degrade any finish over the years.
I used 2-1/2” wide rails and stiles.
The painted finish looked uniform on the mitered corners. The end grain ghosted with the cope and stick.
I used Shaker style for a modern look. Doweled corners made clamping easy.
If you go this route, make a simple fixture to aid in marking the location of the dominoes or dowels. If you do this, all the corners become interchangeable. You will not have to match up corner A with corner A and corner B with corner B, etc.
One piece of off-topic advice: Use cabinet pulls. But note that everyone opens cabinets using the pulls, but using the pulls to close a cabinet is just as important. Consider carefully where people will touch the cabinet to close the doors and place the pulls appropriately.
Because I was refacing cabinets, I could easily see where 20 years of door closings were being touched. I placed the cabient pulls to avoid those touch marks.
The biggest hardware error is the “hidden” pulls. Those pulls only work for opening doors and drawers. The cabinets will look shabby prematurely because every time you close the door or drawer there will be a touch mark. The accumulation of perspiration or hand dirt will degrade any finish over the years.
Brice Burrell
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