How to finish? Built-in bookcases.
- Thread starter BigfootBuilder
- Start date
Has anyone commented on "how to spray the insides of bookcases" when they are in-situ ?....as in, they are already built inside the residence, and you need to spray the insides of shelving units but want to avoid dry-spray or paint runs on the interior ?
It is entirely too easy to apply too much paint (runs) or too little (dry spray).
One way is to strive for "more paint, less air" and using a gun that is paint pressure-fed.....thereby giving you less dry over-spray areas because you can turn your paint-gun upside-down to spray. But then the problem is.....paint runs, especially in corners.
Let's say you shove your "pressurized" spray gun inside a cabinet (basically a box), paint the upper (under) surface first, then the two sides, then the back, and finally the bottom surface. This sometimes works if you are a pro sprayer.....but not always. OK, frankly it never works perfectly.
There is a strong likelihood that the interior of shelving will be occupied by objects (books, clothes, etc) so any mishaps will never seen.....but this is not ideal, and is not a sign of good workmanship.
What I do for interior bookcase shelves, is to paint the insides by hand, with weenie rollers and a good careful 'brushing-out" with a quality brush. Keep the paint on the "thinner" side, to allow for time to brush, and do a clean job.
It's also possible to spray the interiors semi-heavily, then immediately "brush-out" the whole interior at one time....but you have to be quick, before the paint begins to dry at all. When brushing the interior, every part needs to be "wet" to allow for good flow-out of paint, with no drips in any corner or edge.
How do you paint the underside of shelves with a top or bottom-feed gravity gun ? You can't. You need a pressure-fed paint gun.
These types are for sale, and they have a paint pot and just two hoses are attached to your gun, allowing you to spray paint....upside down.
Obviously the interior is painted first....then the exterior last (the outside trim and stiles and everything else.) Sometimes I've seen the painting of the outside of a cabinet first, let dry for a day, then tape-off the outside, to allow the painting of the inside.
I actually prefer to roll and brush the interior, as opposed to spraying it. Spraying leaves too many "dry spray areas", and as a pro, it makes you (me) look bad.
I'm certainly open to other methods. =Randy=
It is entirely too easy to apply too much paint (runs) or too little (dry spray).
One way is to strive for "more paint, less air" and using a gun that is paint pressure-fed.....thereby giving you less dry over-spray areas because you can turn your paint-gun upside-down to spray. But then the problem is.....paint runs, especially in corners.
Let's say you shove your "pressurized" spray gun inside a cabinet (basically a box), paint the upper (under) surface first, then the two sides, then the back, and finally the bottom surface. This sometimes works if you are a pro sprayer.....but not always. OK, frankly it never works perfectly.
There is a strong likelihood that the interior of shelving will be occupied by objects (books, clothes, etc) so any mishaps will never seen.....but this is not ideal, and is not a sign of good workmanship.
What I do for interior bookcase shelves, is to paint the insides by hand, with weenie rollers and a good careful 'brushing-out" with a quality brush. Keep the paint on the "thinner" side, to allow for time to brush, and do a clean job.
It's also possible to spray the interiors semi-heavily, then immediately "brush-out" the whole interior at one time....but you have to be quick, before the paint begins to dry at all. When brushing the interior, every part needs to be "wet" to allow for good flow-out of paint, with no drips in any corner or edge.
How do you paint the underside of shelves with a top or bottom-feed gravity gun ? You can't. You need a pressure-fed paint gun.
These types are for sale, and they have a paint pot and just two hoses are attached to your gun, allowing you to spray paint....upside down.
Obviously the interior is painted first....then the exterior last (the outside trim and stiles and everything else.) Sometimes I've seen the painting of the outside of a cabinet first, let dry for a day, then tape-off the outside, to allow the painting of the inside.
I actually prefer to roll and brush the interior, as opposed to spraying it. Spraying leaves too many "dry spray areas", and as a pro, it makes you (me) look bad.
I'm certainly open to other methods. =Randy=
BigfootBuilder
Member
- Joined
- May 27, 2016
- Messages
- 76
Alright. Done. Darn that was a helluva job (didn't have help on this one). Here's a few pics, boxes are birch ply, shelves and doors are poplar (door panels MDF), prier is SW Wood and Wall, and paint is ProClassic. Opted not for KA+, and they actually make it surprisingly hard to get around here, ALL of the SW people I talked to tried to steer me away from it basically, saying it's more for commercial use, and none of them really seemed to understand it's application resorting to their little pamphlets to answer any of my questions (remember back when people actually knew about the things in their fields???). Alright, enough cynicism 
Thank you all for all of your input on my questions, this place is invaluable and you guys are all very courteous with your time and advice!
FYI I ended up not being able to control my Rockler HVLP setup in a way that I could spray any of this latex stuff, and ended up settling on a Harbor Freight purchase, their Central Pneumatic 64oz "professional air spray kit." Don't laugh. Stop laughing. I absolutely couldn't spring for any more high $ tools for this job, already dropped a good $5000+ on this and that, so a Fuji was out of the question. But you know, for like $50 that darn HF setup worked! It took some time to figure out how to tune it, but once I did, it actually laid down paint pretty darn well! I over-taxed my Makita 5200 compressor like heck, but those things are (thankfully) pretty robust.
I learned a helluva lot on this one, mainly that I hope no one ever asks me to build a set of white bookcases again! WHY??? I'm not a fan of white s%^# like this, imagine these things in cherry or anything else! I believe it a sin to betray and offend the grain of wood in such ways, but that's (apparently) just me.
Oh, the pulls are carved bone animal heads on wood that the clients bought somewhere in Alaska.
Once again, THANK YOU!
Thank you all for all of your input on my questions, this place is invaluable and you guys are all very courteous with your time and advice!
FYI I ended up not being able to control my Rockler HVLP setup in a way that I could spray any of this latex stuff, and ended up settling on a Harbor Freight purchase, their Central Pneumatic 64oz "professional air spray kit." Don't laugh. Stop laughing. I absolutely couldn't spring for any more high $ tools for this job, already dropped a good $5000+ on this and that, so a Fuji was out of the question. But you know, for like $50 that darn HF setup worked! It took some time to figure out how to tune it, but once I did, it actually laid down paint pretty darn well! I over-taxed my Makita 5200 compressor like heck, but those things are (thankfully) pretty robust.
I learned a helluva lot on this one, mainly that I hope no one ever asks me to build a set of white bookcases again! WHY??? I'm not a fan of white s%^# like this, imagine these things in cherry or anything else! I believe it a sin to betray and offend the grain of wood in such ways, but that's (apparently) just me.
Oh, the pulls are carved bone animal heads on wood that the clients bought somewhere in Alaska.
Once again, THANK YOU!
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Michael Kellough
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- Joined
- Jan 23, 2007
- Messages
- 7,096
The final result looks very good!
"I believe it a sin to betray and offend the grain of wood in such ways"
That's why they made MDF isn't it?
"I believe it a sin to betray and offend the grain of wood in such ways"
That's why they made MDF isn't it?
BigfootBuilder
Member
- Joined
- May 27, 2016
- Messages
- 76
Michael Kellough said:
How dare you deconstruct my cynicism with a rational argument!
Purdy rollers. I use a medium nap for priming and will frequently spot prime before priming or touch up after priming any spots that don't look the same. Make sure to sand smooth before moving to the first top coat and same for the second. I'll also say that I do a preliminary scuff sanding on any sheet good that I paint.
BigfootBuilder
Member
- Joined
- May 27, 2016
- Messages
- 76
Paul G said:
[member=19439]Paul G[/member] It is actually really nice to work with, much as I'm not a painting guy myself. I did a little bit of brushing and rolling it, but mostly spraying. It lays down super smooth, and really flattens out after about 1-2 hours. It's impressive stuff.
I was using Floetrol and 10% water to make it work spraying, so I don't know its characteristics alone.
Most importantly, the clients are very happy! Many here seem to endorse it, and I see why. I also don't have much to compare to as I haven't yet done much of this kind of painting (cabinetry), but I'm glad I asked here before I did...
tiralie
Member
- Joined
- Jan 26, 2010
- Messages
- 3,617
BigfootBuilder said:
Cabinet finish looks good from here. How much % did you thin it? Sounds like more than 10%?
Without thinning Pro classic is gonna be difficult to spray without an airless or air assisted system.
Kem Aqua is a better choice but I understand why you opted not to go with it. Try to get some, you will be pleased with the results.
Tim