How to make a MFT Top

D

donwon

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Joined
Jan 19, 2013
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Well I am thinking about making an MFT top (over $700 bones for one in Canada ouch! [scared])  I have read many postings on using the LR32 for this, etc. 

My question is the LR32 makes sense but why would you not draw this out in AutoCAD and plot full scale?  This would give you a layout template that is right on the money  [big grin]  Has anyone done this before?
 
You are correct on that it is the table with the cross cut setup.  However, I am just looking for the clamping portions with using the dogs.  Plus this would give me a good excuse, uh reason to buy the LR32 jig [big grin]
 
Well gee, two quick reasons: 1) not everyone has Autocad, 2) not everyone has a plotter to print full scale.
Here's a third, not everyone thinks the $150 US or $187 CDN is an unreasonable price considering the time of doing it ones self and the chances of having less precision.

donwon said:
Well I am thinking about making an MFT top (over $700 bones for one in Canada ouch! [scared])  I have read many postings on using the LR32 for this, etc. 

My question is the LR32 makes sense but why would you not draw this out in AutoCAD and plot full scale?  This would give you a layout template that is right on the money  [big grin]  Has anyone done this before?
Click to expand...
 
So, to keep this post on track .. has "anyone" tried this method to make a custom size top for their shop?  looking for lessons learned if anyone has done this.  Thanks!
 
The Festool table is dead nuts CNC exact.

I print a lot of AutoCAD full size patterns and not sure if I had a plot how I would get from the paper template to a perfect hole?? Even a center punch hole through paper is not exact.

I am sure its would be really close but not as close as the CNC original.

My uncle mentioned to me just yesterday about using a plunge router and pattern bit off an old table.  That sounds like its worth a shot to me and I might try it using a 1080 top I just replaced.

 
Ive done a top just drilled off of a grid I laid out. It's just for a rough prototype I built. I'm sure there's variance off of the grid and all of the holes weren't completely perpendicular but as I said it was just for a quick one off to see how I liked the surface. People get into the LR32 system, or CNC their own to have a grid accuracy so they can set rails and guides off of the dog holes and maintain true angles. If you're doing a dirty top like I did, it looks fine but I wouldn't trust a perfect angle off of it. You need some sort of accurate guide for your router or drill such as the LR32 system. Good luck with your top and let us know how it turns out.
 
Find a shop with a CNC and have them do it and save yourself the trouble. Probably be $85-100 labor rate. The Festool MDF is definitely different then the HD MDF I can tell you that. I spread two coats of Moisture Cured Urethane with a foam brush on the Festool version and it looks like glass. Glue will not stick to it. Two coats on HD and it looks like maybe one at best. The MDF is much less dense and soaked all the product in. Not sure how this effects sagging, but I would think it does, Eric
 
I made one a few years back. I run a CNC where i work, so decided to make a top for my bench
in my garage. I drew it up in CAD and used all the measurementsto make a top that is almost
a full 1220 X 2440. All holes are perfectly 96mm apart and i even threw a few extra holes here and there for cutting 15 and 30 degrees.

I also made a little extra work fence that will let me cut in increments of 5 degrees. And all i need
to make it all line up is the Qwas dogs mounted to the underside of my guide rails. It works really well.

I also made a spare top that matches the Festool one exactly should i ever wish to purchase the real deal.
All in all i think it was only 2 sheets of 19mm MDF in total

Benn
 
I have a Laser Plotter that prints 36" wide by however long you want. It holds 2 36" x 500 foot rolls of paper.

I don't see that a big help for drilling out a custom MFT style top. I would think having a CNC company make one on high quality MDF would be a better plan. If you want it stronger/better/more glue resisitant and aren't going to cut into it, how about King Starboard or similar?
 
Find a shop with a CNC and have them do it and save yourself the trouble. Probably be $85-100 labor rate. The Festool MDF is definitely different then the HD MDF I can tell you that. I spread two coats of Moisture Cured Urethane with a foam brush on the Festool version and it looks like glass. Glue will not stick to it. Two coats on HD and it looks like maybe one at best. The MDF is much less dense and soaked all the product in. Not sure how this effects sagging, but I would think it does, Eric
Click to expand...

MDF MDF.

It really depends on where you get it. The density and the bonding makes up the MDF quality. My vendor says that 800 kg/m3 is the threshold for when it's called HDF. But as the bonding inside the MDF counts as well, there is not much use just looking at the density. The 19mm MDF I got was very nice (very near 800 kg/m3). A bit darker than Festools MDF, but it doesn't soak oil more than Festools IMO. "Ordinary" MDF sokas oil much more.

As usual, you get what you pay for. I think Festools price for the CNC:ed high quality MDF is not very high. If you don't need an MFT of other size that Festools I'd buy the Festool top.

//Michael
 
I make mine out of MDO to save on weight and is more resistance to water for taking out on jobs. I use the original top for pattern and a spiral pattern bit. Works well but does take time. Also holes are on the tight side for clamping elements.
 
I made my own 4' x 8' and it is very accurate. I used a 55" holy rail, LR32 plate, Festool 20mm bit, 4 dogs and 1 Qwas rail dog. I tried various methods, the fourth time was a charm. I can square anything on my top, dead on!
 
I just use the old top, clamp it to the new one, and use a 1/2" straight pattern bit in my plunge router, and do each hole one at a time.  Perfect spacing, diameter, etc. everytime.  Use the same trick for other work surfaces in my shop also.  No brainer.
 
Ed Feeney said:
I just use the old top, clamp it to the new one, and use a 1/2" straight pattern bit in my plunge router, and do each hole one at a time.  Perfect spacing, diameter, etc. everytime.  Use the same trick for other work surfaces in my shop also.  No brainer.
Click to expand...

Hi Ed,

Happy first post !  [smile]

Top bearing bit? I take the tolerance on the hole size works out fine for dogs and such?

Seth
 
I do not yet own any of the green Kool-Aid, but I am working on wearing down my CFO at home.

::)

I just found this forum and joined specifically to read this and other threads like this one. I think it's gonna be a very late night tonight...
 
+1 for the lr32.  It's expensive, but making my mft top using it was literally the most fun i've had woodworking in a long time.  I have no doubt that I will get plenty of future use for it, but I bought it specifically for this purpose.  I, too have holes you can run square off of perfectly.  The pattern bit and MFT idea will work just as well but definitely take a lot longer, especially if you ave a lot of holes.  mine has 221 and it's only 4x6
 
jussi said:
nowandthen said:
I made my own 4' x 8' and it is very accurate. I used a 55" holy rail, LR32 plate, Festool 20mm bit, 4 dogs and 1 Qwas rail dog. I tried various methods, the fourth time was a charm. I can square anything on my top, dead on!
Click to expand...

Ooh I like the idea of using qwas dogs with lr32.  Where did u get the bit?
Click to expand...

I bought the Festool 20mm bit. The dogs don't really matter. The first set I had were Qwas. Now all I buy are from Jerry at http://precisiondogs.us/. Hope it's OK to post that. :)
 
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