How to make a wood draining board - wood questions

Was wondering how you'd gotten on. I'd used the 1010 for mine in ash with a long 8mm shank core box bit. 3 or 4 progressively deeper passes per groove. With the length of the shank there was some chatter but very shallow final passes came good in the end.

Having a bigger beefier router would've been nice at the time for sure.
 
As I noted in reply 5, the Kohler laminated cutting board is always falling apart so I decided to make one from solid walnut.

In this top view the Kohler product is already missing the lower LH radius and there are about 10 different places where the strips are starting to delaminate. This will last maybe another 6 months.  [sad]

Here's the bottom view of old & new. The rebated area is 9 mm deep. This allows the cutting board to nestle down inside the Kohler colander.

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Cheese,
Nice substitute board, better than Kohlers! Did you make a template to cut the piece and route the rebate?
 
Intex said:
Cheese,
Nice substitute board, better than Kohlers! Did you make a template to cut the piece and route the rebate?

Yes I did, the RH template for the top and the LH template for the bottom.

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While I was looking for an oil/wax product this morning to put on the new walnut cutting board, I happened across these folks in Kingston NY that produce custom made cutting boards. It was this sentence in particular that caught my attention.

"Each of our maple cutting boards are cut from a single piece of wood, which means there are no glue seams."

Hmmm.... [popcorn]
https://www.blackcreekmt.com/tabletop/maple-boards/

I also noticed that John Boos now produces a single piece wood cutting board.https://www.johnboos.com/PDF/rst_spec.pdf

Black Creek also produce a white oak cutting board that is blackened using the tannic acid contained in white oak. No pigments are used to produce the color, and obviously it's food safe.https://www.blackcreekmt.com/tabletop/blackline-boards/

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Some of the furniture they produce is also very interesting.https://www.blackcreekmt.com/furniture/

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Well here's the finished product.

I decided to go with Boos oil & cream. I put 2 HEAVY applications of Boos oil on every surface of the board using a foam brush. That took about 36 hours to fully soak in. I then wiped off the light residual oil left on the surface.

I then applied a HEAVY application of Boos cream and let that soak in for about 12 hours. I then again wiped off the residual cream left behind.

I really like the way the combination performs. The oil is just a refined mineral oil and using it alone, it leaves a very oily surface behind. The cream is a combination of oil and bees wax and it imparts a very nice finish to the wood.

We'll see how they perform long-term.  [smile]

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