How to Release the LR32 Guide Plate Rocker?

[Patrick Cox]

Hello,
I am setting up and calibrating my new LR32 system to my OF1010 router and I am running into an issue.  The Rocker on the Guide Plate that raises and lowers the indexing pin will not move.  It seems to be locked down.  I tried to unscrew the knob on top of the Rocker but it won't move and I don't want to apply too much force if that is not the correct way to loosen.  So any help would be appreciated.  Thanks!

Pat

 

[peter halle]

I just pulled my set out - never used  [scared]- and the knob on top won't do a thing in your situation.  Turn the plate over and see if you can push the protruding pin up.  Maybe even put a block of wood on it and TAP with a hammer.  Perhaps if it has been used there might? be something that got trapped?

Peter

 

[NL-mikkla]

Mabey there is something underneath the rocker during transport?
Since the set is also new
Normally the knob does not limit the movement you are looking for, as Peter already stated.

 

[peter halle]

My pin as originally delivered didn't have anything on it.  It pushes up easily with finger pressure.

Peter

 

[NL-mikkla]

I bought mine slightley used so figured this could be the problem, guess not..
Looking at the thing doesn't indicate there could be a whole lot wrong with it
Strange, hope this turns out to be one of those AHA moments.

 

[Patrick Cox]

OK, I think I have it.  Although the pin does not always push back down through the hole fully.  The pin was seized down through the hole.  So I took a small piece of wood and pushed it back up through the hole and then the rocker released and was movable.  I can now push down on the rocker to lift the pin up and then when I release the rocker, the pin drops back down, although sometimes it stops short of the pin collar (not sure if this is the correct term) seating against the rail.  But when I mount the plate into the rail the pin does seem to click back into the holes so it is probably OK.  I will see how it goes for this first project and if I have issues I will exchange for a new one.

Thanks for the help.  I do have some layout questions but I will post another thread on that.

Pat

 

[Jeff Zanin]

My pin seemed fine on receipt but after some use it became progressively harder to release.

A bit of wheel bearing grease on the pin and the lever mechanism helped a lot.

 

[Dick Mahany]

After doing approximately 76 meters of LR32 holes, I noticed that my pin was getting "sticky".  It would make a slight clicking sound and not freely return to the up position.  A little silicone spray with a thorough workout solved the problem.  I took great care to remove any excess silcone as I dont want it migrating on to the work pieces.  I never figured out the root cause, but it hasn't happened again.

 

[QuailRider43]

After doing approximately 76 meters of LR32 holes, I noticed that my pin was getting "sticky".  It would make a slight clicking sound and not freely return to the up position.  A little silicone spray with a thorough workout solved the problem.  I took great care to remove any excess silcone as I dont want it migrating on to the work pieces.  I never figured out the root cause, but it hasn't happened again.

Same sticking issue with my LR32.  Lubricate the pin when it stops rocking easily.  That fixes it.

 

[Klemm]

we notice the same sticking issue on a practically new L-32 set. Deliberately avoiding any "move" pressure on the carriage while releasing the pin helped but the system seems to be prone to sticking.

But Silicone is the last thing I would want used in any area where someone might want to do finishing work later - think "fisheyes" -the bain of painters.

Now that I see this to be a more widespread issue I intend to examine the surface finish of the Pin for any miniscule surface roughness. If I find that to be the case I'll polish it out and apply a paste wax to the pin and buff it out.

Last but probably not least: aluminum is by nature a sticky material as we all know from machining it. The Guide Rail holes are simply punched at the time of manufacture. That process always leaves a surface roughness, especially in the area where the material transitions from being to cut to simply shearing the rest of the way through.
Smoothing and polishing here does not sound like a fun project.

I bet someone out there has licked this problem - let's hear the real solution
Klemm

 

[AIPDX]

I had the same issue. A brand new tool was getting progressively "stickier" and after about 300 holes required tools and brutal force to get the pin un-jammed. Since it was under 30 days after purchase, I returned the set to the dealer as broken and got a replacement which served me well for the remaining 700 holes on that project.

I recommend you either return it for replacement or send it for warranty repair (which I think will end up being a replacement because the rocker arm and the pin are not serviceable, they are welded to the slider).

It is a very simple design, a slight misalignment of pin leads to problems like what you are experiencing.

 

[Dick Mahany]

One would think that Festool would have used a bronze bushing or a teflon wear bushing for that pin on such an expensive jig.  Any Festool engineers listening ?