How to Remove Lead Paint from Windows with small children nearby

Tim Brennan

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We have a semi built around 1925 with original wooden framed windows. I have sorted out the interior, and now I need to fix the exterior of the windows. Much of the exterior paint on the window frames has completely gone and some of the lower parts of the window frames are rotten because of this.

Because of the age of the house, it is likely some layers of paint might have lead in them. Since my wife is pregnant and we have a toddler, I don't want to create lead dust if at all possible. However some of the paint is peeling off so bad, it needs to be taken back to bare wood in places.

I have been using various methods with slow progress:-
  • Peelaway - great for masonry, but not the best for the wood, because it doesn't go through the topmost type of paint we have
  • Heatgun - risk of fire not good, but handy in removing lots of layers of paint. Takes ages though
  • Bahco/Sandvik tungsten carbide scraper - really good to remove what the heat gun leaves behind
  • Nitromors - only takes of a few layers at a time - and i have many layers of paint to get through

I already own a DTS400 and CT26, and I am looking to buy another tool to help speed things up. I have the option of buying one of these paint shavers new for £90 (not £190) looks very much like a Metabo lf724 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/290822465834?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649  .

But now I just heard that this paint shaver will be in stock in a months time.

So I need to decide weather to wait for this or perhaps try a rotex.

Obviously a rotex would have more use after the job, but I am not sure if it would make dangerous amounts of dust. I watched this and looks like it gets 90% of the dust, but is that good enough?

If rotex is the best way, which size?

Any advice would be great....
 
I am not a painter but I think using a sander would just create dust which the ct will not necessarily pick up 100%, I believe hand scraping is the best bet and be sure to use a respirator yourself.
 
SPARKY FROM WINNIPEG said:
I am not a painter but I think using a sander would just create dust which the ct will not necessarily pick up 100%, I believe hand scraping is the best bet and be sure to use a respirator yourself.

Ok.

Yes, I'm using a 3M 7502 with the fine dust filters, exactly like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/3M-7502-2091-3Piece-Suit-Respirator-Dust-Death-Ash-Fiberglass-Face-Mask-PEH045-/150827181471

Also I use steel scourer and a bucket of water to scrub the masonry after the peelaway. Takes time but it comes up good.
 
Given that all forms of lead have such adverse effects on children, would it be a great idea to move those children as from from the paint removal as possible?
 
woodie said:
The Speadheater IR paint remover has worked well for me. Paint comes off in larger strips that are easy to clean up.

http://www.speedheater.us/

Not a pro but due to SWMBO I have done A LOT of painting.  I have used the this product {speedheater; (which she incidentally bought me as a gift)} on many a project around my house due to the age of the house.  As I recall, and don't hold me liable for misinformation, the speedheater does not heat the paint as hot as a normal heat gun.  I believe that lead in paint becomes airborne around 700 degrees Fahrenheit.  Speedheater does not get this hot.  I believe it gets to around around 400 degrees Fahrenheit.  Problem may be that you may run into milk paint.  Let me tell you that this stuff is TOUGH.  Ordered a product from www.realmilkpaint.com that took pretty much everything off spindles I was refinishing.  Another product that comes to mind that you can use is from a company called Back to Nature (http://sunnysidecorp.com/shop.php) (which is now part of the Sunny Side Corp).  Stuff works well but slowly (you have to keep it wet).  As I recall, local area carousel was restored using this product to strip away all the lead based paint.  From what I understand, the gel encapsulates the lead.  The contractor was able to take the refuse from the job to the landfill and since it was in this gel did not have to pay for hazardous waste fee.  My understanding is the contractor saved a bundle of money. 

Hope this helped.
 
Hello Tim,

Over the last few months I have been removing lead paint from my 1925 home and have used a combination of the Speedheater, Bahco scrapers, RO 90, ETS 125 with my CT36.....all have proven very useful. My windows are casement (French style windows) so I am also using a gel stripper for the smaller, harder to get too, areas. My guess is that you will probably use a combination of methods as well so I suggest doing everything you can to isolate the work area (doorways, vents, floors) by taping/plastic, etc. If you elect to go with the heat method you'll need good ventilation and a respirator. When paint heats beyond 875 degrees it becomes toxic and that is why I really like the Speedheater. I'd also suggest keeping a water spray bottle nearby....it's unlikely you'll need it but it can't hurt to be prepared.

The challenge with scrapers and sanders is the dust so I used plastic tarp on my floors, taped off all doorways and vents. In addition to thoroughly cleaning the area with my CT36 at the end of the day I kept the room blocked off so that I could vacuum the next morning again when all the dust had settled.

Net/Net: It is a ton of work but I am glad I did it because the natural wood is by far better than what we had. Please feel free to message me if you have any questions or come up with any new ideas that make it easier because I still have a few rooms to go. :-) Good Luck
 
The speedheater is not as widely available in the uk. I have seen it here speedheater.eu bit it's €599 and that doesn't include the arm which seems necessary. In fact I can't see that you can buy the arm for scaffolding without buying the professional set costing €3000.

Hiring might be an option... If they are available in the London area....

I tried googling IR paint remover and still nothing for sale in the uk, but lots in the US.
 
I have been sanding down the windows with the dts 400, ct 26, and cristal p40 sheets. It is very quick where the paint is thin, but is really too slow at getting through areas of thick paint. See photos... [attachthumb=#]

I really want to get a speedheater, but the cost is around £500 ($775). Is it worth it? I am really tempted to buy it because it is said to be much quicker and safer than a heat gun. But the price is very expensive. There is a place that hires it for £120 for five days which covers everything. Trouble is I am sure to need it many times so in the long run this could cost as much as buying it.

I have seen another for £130 http://resinrestoration.com/store/index.php?id_product=8&controller=product&id_lang=2

It doesn't look as effective from this video, it seems under powered perhaps

I can only find one comment about them online...

We've tried methylene chloride, which really needs to be covered to work well and is extremely toxic. We've tried smart strip chemical peel which works pretty well if you are patient but is extremely expensive and pretty messy. The speedstripper worked well but was really heavy and awkward for stripping detailed trim. (We bought one used on ebay to save a bit of money).

In desperation, I took a chance on someone in London who is selling a smaller lighter infrared paint remover, which weighs about 2lbs. We love the darn thing so much, we bought another one so two people can strip at the same time.

Anyone have any advice?

Also, in 2 videos I see the window has been taken off its hinges to work on it. Does this save time?

Update: I found this feedback on eBay....
had speedheater,vry gd.speed stripper just as gd.better $ vry happy.Bev New York Buyer: spenny1.2012 ( 0 )   31-Jan-13 17:32
 

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I think the Speedheater is well worth the money. The time it saved me on a recent interior project was considerable.  I had to remove paint from interior trim in 100 year old home. 30 seconds over a spot and a few quick scrapes and you're down to bare wood.
 
I just used a speedheater for the first time yesterday. Got it on hire about £100 for 4 days

It's a vast improvement over a heat gun, at least 10 times quicker and the wood doesn't get scorched at all.

Ideally another person to hold whilst I scrape, because scraping and heating are easier with two hands.

Results are great though. [attachthumb=#]

After I return it ill buy a speedstripper 400 for £56 and compare them.
 

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