How to Safely Cut Flooring Transition Moulding?

[Bugsysiegals]

I'm in the middle of tiling master bathroom floor and need to trim down the "T" section of my hardwood to tile transition moulding.  I'd considered to rip it on my table saw but then considered if it twists even the slightest bit while pushing it through that it could potentially cause a nasty and somewhat dangerous kickback?  Would you make some jig, use a jigsaw, the TS55 without the track, etc.?

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[Cheese]

For something like this I like to use the bandsaw, no kick back issues and no jigs or fixtures, pretty easy and safe.

 

[Svar]

Hand plane. Or even chisel.

 

[peter halle]

I would also consider running a line down the sides and use a plane.  My plane would have a cord attached though.

Peter

 

[Bugsysiegals]

For something like this I like to use the bandsaw, no kick back issues and no jigs or fixtures, pretty easy and safe.

One of the tools I do not have unfortunately.  [sad]

 

[Bugsysiegals]

I would also consider running a line down the sides and use a plane.  My plane would have a cord attached though.

Peter

I have one Lie Nielson hand plane which was mint until I used it to shave the 2x4's in this bathroom.  It was a lot of work doing it by hand and then I scuffed up the nice Brass when I hit some nails ...  [sad]  I should have bought a power plane!

 

[Oldwood]

If you slip the transition moulding onto a piece of scrap ply then screw it to the plywood keeping the screws as tight as is possible to the top of the rabbet.

You could then clamp or screw the ply to a table, so the bottom of the transition piece is up. Then use a router with a jig or just a plane to take it to where it needs to be.

My dinner is ready, or I would do a drawing.

Good luck with it.

Gerry

 

[DynaGlide]

Is the stub/tenon too proud? Belt sander clamped to a bench or one of those sander station things.

 

[peter halle]

OR the RAS to the rescue with the coarsest paper!

Peter

 

[squall_line]

Is the stub/tenon too proud? Belt sander clamped to a bench or one of those sander station things.

RAS to the rescue!  [wink]

Ninja'd by [member=1674]Peter Halle[/member]

Great minds!

 

[CeeJay]

I’d close up the T’ by attaching additional pieces using double stick tape  then rip it as a stable block.

Or use a hand plane if it’s only a small cut.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Holzhacker]

If you need to cut this down the way I think you do, this is exactly what I used to use my 850 planer and stand for. My HL 850 lived in the stand to do this type of small stuff. Worked great.
I realize this probably wasn't helpful since you may not have an 850 and can't get a stand, stupid lawyers. Just thought I'd throw it out there.
With available tools I would probably use a belt sander or handsaw. Actually if you clamp it down the multimaster also might work well.

 

[Michael Kellough]

As above, power plane is best in the stock’s present condition. RAS is good too.

If you want to use the table saw you need to modify the stock to make it less dangerous to rip.

First you need to add scrap stock to the side of the T (the inner side) so the piece is supported against the downward force of the saw blade. Tape and or hot glue.

I’d also add a strip to the top of the molding to widen the footprint and give me something more stable to hold against the fence. Hot glue and tape. You can put tape down first to protect the molding from the hot glue.

 

[Bugsysiegals]

If you slip the transition moulding onto a piece of scrap ply then screw it to the plywood keeping the screws as tight as is possible to the top of the rabbet.

You could then clamp or screw the ply to a table, so the bottom of the transition piece is up. Then use a router with a jig or just a plane to take it to where it needs to be.

My dinner is ready, or I would do a drawing.

Good luck with it.

Gerry

Not bad, besides hand router I have a router table which seems the bit would act like a power plane or I suppose I could even use my jointer. 

 

[Bugsysiegals]

Is the stub/tenon too proud? Belt sander clamped to a bench or one of those sander station things.

It wasn’t until I added the cement board to the sub floor for the tile. I wasn’t sure how I was going to finish it otherwise I would’ve left it that gap short and had no issues.

No belt/drum sander either.  [sad]

 

[Svar]

I suggested hand plane above, which will get it done in 1 min.

But then I remembered this is Festool forum... So start with importing TSK80. Then purchase Shaper Origin, which will be used to build an elaborate jig. 3D printer might be handy to make certain parts of the jig. CT48 and RAS go without saying. Then miscellaneous stuff, such as MFS, Woodpeckers layout tools etc. ... Am I missing something?

 

[Bob D.]

For something like this I like to use the bandsaw, no kick back issues and no jigs or fixtures, pretty easy and safe.

One of the tools I do not have unfortunately.  [sad]

Guess we know what your next tool purchase might be. A #5 or #4 Stanley in VG condition can be had for less than $50.
Doesn't help you right now I know. Can you borrow one? You could rip it on a bandsaw. Just about any size bandsaw could make that rip safely.

 

[Bob D.]

Is the stub/tenon too proud? Belt sander clamped to a bench or one of those sander station things.

RAS to the rescue!  [wink]

Ninja'd by [member=1674]Peter Halle[/member]

Great minds!

LOL, that RAS, as in RAS115. I was thinking Radial Arm Saw and then "how the heck is that going to work?"

 

[Cheese]

Why not just remove the cement board with a Vecturo or a Fein and a diamond/carbide blade?

 

[DynaGlide]

I suggested hand plane above, which will get it done in 1 min.

But then I remembered this is Festool forum... So start with importing TSK80. Then purchase Shaper Origin, which will be used to build an elaborate jig. 3D printer might be handy to make certain parts of the jig. CT48 and RAS go without saying. Then miscellaneous stuff, such as MFS, Woodpeckers layout tools etc. ... Am I missing something?

[thumbs up] [thumbs up]

But [member=15585]Svar[/member] nobody follows KISS on here.

Some things really are better to do with hand tools.