how to set TS55 bevel to 0

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paulhtremblay

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How do you set the bevel to 0 degrees with the TS55?

On most saws, the zero position locks or clicks in. You rotate the base plate all the way in one direction, that is zero.

But on the TS55, if you rotate the base plate all the way in one direction, you see -1. Instead, I line up the zero degree mark. This method is different and makes me wonder if I am doing it right.

It seems some of my cuts are not 90 degrees. The lack of squareness could very well be user error or measurement error. I just want to check.

(I think I will do the test for 90 degrees by cutting a piece of MDF, flipping it, and making sure there is no gap between the cut edges. But I need to know if I should perform this test with the saw at 0  or at -1.)
 
There are a number of threads about the TS55REQ (assuming it is the REQ) and setting the stop so that it is exactly perpendicular to the blade. I had a problem with 90 degree cuts also as did some others. One of the threads is

http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-tool-problems/ts55r-bevel-scale-adjustment/msg323476/#msg323476

but there are several others. I wish I could find them quickly. If I do I will post them. There is a procedure for setting the zero degree stop so the 90 degree cut is accurate. A call to Festool Service should resolve. They should be able to give you specific directions.

One thing I found was that tightening the rear bevel lock knob before the front one will be the most accurate way to set bevel angles and bring the saw back to the zero degree stop if it is already set correctly.
 
So it seems something is wrong with my bevel adjustment. If I tilt the saw all the way in one direction, it stops at exactly 45 degrees. If I push in the limit release, I can further tilt the saw to 47 degrees.

But I tilt in the other direction, the saw stops at negative 1. If I push in the tilt release, the saw does not go any further. When I tilt the saw back towards zero, I can hear the tilt release click. But it does not click back at zero degrees.
 
I would call Festool Service and describe the problem to them. If they feel something isn't right they will set up a return for repair (I assume it's still under warranty.) If they fell this can be fixed by setting the stop, then they also should be able to walk you through the couple of steps required to do that. I thought something was wrong with mine also, but was able to correct the problem by setting the stop and tightening the rear bevel lock knob first when returning it to zero degrees. There is no way to change the scale itself, only the stop. Good luck. I have always had the greatest success with my contacts with service.
 
grbmds said:
I would call Festool Service and describe the problem to them. If they feel something isn't right they will set up a return for repair (I assume it's still under warranty.) If they fell this can be fixed by setting the stop, then they also should be able to walk you through the couple of steps required to do that. I thought something was wrong with mine also, but was able to correct the problem by setting the stop and tightening the rear bevel lock knob first when returning it to zero degrees. There is no way to change the scale itself, only the stop. Good luck. I have always had the greatest success with my contacts with service.
Click to expand...

Thanks. I will contact them. I have had excellent service as well.

Just for curiosity, how did you set the stop?
 
There are no instructions in the manual but . . .

There are two torx head screws in the back holding a silver colored bracket in place. I believe you need a T25 Torx Head tool for these screws. They have to be loosened and the bracket moved slightly one direction or the other (depending on which way you need to move the stop) with a screwdriver, then tighten the screws back up. Test it. It might need a bit more adjustment, but I was lucky. I got it just right the second time.

What I noticed most was that, when I changed the bevel for an angle cut and brought it back to zero again, I was putting slight downward pressure on the front of the saw when tightening the front lock knob. This was enough to bring the front slightly out of alignment even if the stop is set right. Locking the back knob first, then the front, making sure to keep your hands off the saw handle (so not to accidentally push down) brings it back in line every time. I think one of the posts I referenced contains instructions from someone else. If not, there is another thread out there I didn't find. Service can help you though. If you can't adjust it with their instructions it is possible that something isn't set right, but they will help you, I'm sure.
 
paulhtremblay said:
How do you set the bevel to 0 degrees with the TS55?

On most saws, the zero position locks or clicks in. You rotate the base plate all the way in one direction, that is zero.

But on the TS55, if you rotate the base plate all the way in one direction, you see -1. Instead, I line up the zero degree mark. This method is different and makes me wonder if I am doing it right.

It seems some of my cuts are not 90 degrees. The lack of squareness could very well be user error or measurement error. I just want to check.

(I think I will do the test for 90 degrees by cutting a piece of MDF, flipping it, and making sure there is no gap between the cut edges. But I need to know if I should perform this test with the saw at 0  or at -1.)
Click to expand...

Were you able to get your TS55 0 degree bevel stop set accurately?
 
I finally had time to test the accuracy of the bevel. I glued two pieces of 3/4'' (19mm) MDF together to give me a 1 1/2'' (39 mm) thick piece of wood.

First test: set the bevel all the way down without pulling out the green limit release. That should set the bevel at 90 degrees. I cut the board and then flipped it over and saw a gap between the pieces.

Second test: I set the bevel at 0 degrees by pushing up the base a bit. I cut the board, flipped it over, and saw no space between the pieces.

Conclusion: The markings on the side of the saw are accurate. But the saw does not lock down to a zero position.

To Do: contact Festool about adjusting the bevel.
 
Sounds like the best plan. Contact Festool service, set the bevel stop so it is right on, and then worry about the scale. I was lucky in that, once I got the bevel stop set right, the scale was also right on (or as close as the thickness of the markings allow). My understanding is that the scale itself cannot be moved.
 
Contacted customer service. I didn't realize how bad the problem was. I cut up a whole sheet of Birch plywood tonight, and nothing really fits together.
 
I contacted Festool services on Friday. The service tech had me check the squareness of the blade by placing a triangle square against the base of the saw an the blade, but not being able to discern much, we decided to have Festool do the adjustment. Because I will leave for vacation, I did not want my saw returned and sitting on my porch for a week, so the rep told me to have the local Festool dealer mail it. That way, when Festool returned it, the saw would sit in the local dealer's shop.

I called the local dealer and they outright refused to ship it, since I did not buy it from them. I left a message with Festool and while waiting for a return call, got a call back from the local store. They still refused to ship it, but Deb (not her real name) wanted to know where exactly I had purchased it from? I got it from Amazon, but Amazon often serves as the go between for other companies. I found my receipt, and low and behold, I *had* ordered it from the local Festool dealer.

Sorry, Deb said, but you got it from our national catalog store, not from my shop. I am a Franchise. So I can't ship it. Deb then proceeds to give me a sales pitch, saying I should have bought the saw from her, because then we would have a personal relationship, and then she could help me. I should support local business.

I got in contact with Festool, and had them send me a shipping label. I shipped out the package and will have a neighbor watch for it.

I was miffed Deb from the local store wouldn't help, but she had a point about buying something expensive from a local dealer. So I visited the store on Sat., needing some wood clamps. Once there, I asked the sales rep the difference between Jorgensen and Bessey clamps. He didn't now.

I then found a TS55 on its track. Surprisingly, the default position on this saw was also -1 (or really, -.5)! I asked another sales rep if he could help me with the TS55. The Festool expert told me that the track saw was meant to go to -1. I showed him that you needed to pull out the green knob to move the saw to 47 or -1. He didn't know that. He fiddled with the saw a bit and pushed the saw up to 0 (exactly what I did), but otherwise, didn't really offer any insights.

I asked the rep for the same blade as came with my saw. He told me I wanted a rip blade for MDF, and sells me the wrong blade.

It is interesting that the default position was also not 0 at the local store. My guess is that the numbers on the bevel square are put on in at one stage in manufacturing. Then, before the saw is actually boxed, a tech fine tunes the saw to assure absolute squareness. When I talked to the sales rep at Festool, he told me Festool had special tables and squares just for that process.

It would be helpful to get some clarification on this point. I am hoping that when the saw comes back and cuts square. My plywood project has terrible, untight joints (in both directions).
 
paultremblay,

It is a great idea to find a local store, if one exists, to buy, not only Festools but other woodworking related items. However, they have to be able to provide the needed expertise and, when needed, suggest solutions. The local store you went to apparently is not the kind of store you want. I have bought all my Festool tools from the Woodcraft in Madison, Wisconsin, along with other recent purchases of major stationary tools. They are, in fact, the kind of store you want a relationship with and have never steered me wrong.

Regarding your TS55, I also sent mine back to Festool Service. They adjusted it and, when it came back I originally thought it had the same problem. After a couple of days of experimentation, I found that, when tightening the bevel lock knobs, I was tightening the front one first. When I tightened the front knob first, I was putting pressure on the saw's frame, distorting it slightly and, thus, the result was the final position was noticeably off of 90 degrees. I now tighten the rear bevel lock knob first, making sure to just let the saw rest without my hands on the handle, then tighten the front knob last. It's a perfect 90 degrees every time. I don't know whether sending it in to Festool corrected an erroneous set stop or not. Festool Service says that it should make no difference whether you tighten the front or rear lock knob first, but my experience has indicated that, for whatever reason, tightening the rear knob first is a much better way to and does make a difference. The main beveling bracket is in the rear and, therefore, once that is secure the front of the saw must stay in line.

Just an aside, I merely used my MFT and a square that I have confidence in to verify the stop set. I did a series of test cuts and have checked a cut twice since then; always a perfect 90 degrees. If it is out of whack, my eyes can't see it so I'm satisfied. It's more accurate now than any other saw I've used.

Good luck.
 
I had read another thread where guys were having a problem setting the TS 55REQsquare as well as all settings for bevel.  When i first started using mine, i was expecting a problem.  I spent some time with trial and error method until i got it to cut perfectly square.  I had to make several adjustments and then cuts before i got it to cut perfectly 90º.  Once it was set and all knobs tightened as tight as I could make them, I have had square cuts ever since.  I have a couple of 2x scraps that I use to cut and check every time I do a project requiring perfect accuracy.
Tinker
 
Here is my belated follow up. I sent the TS55 out on Friday, and got it back the next Thursday, just before I went on vacation. The default position is now 0, and cuts are a perfect 90 degrees. Festool provided very good customer service, fixing the problem quickly. In addition, the service techs were friendly and knowledgeable.
 
Does anyone have a problem with having to adjust the bevel for different tracks?  I have 4 different tracks, 1-36", 2-55" and 1-75".  One of the 55 and the 75 are both right on when I set the saw to 0° and they make perfect cuts, but the other two it seams I have to adjust the bevel about a half degree to get a good cut.  It's frustrating because I planned on joining them together at random lengths for projects but if I join the 75" with the 36" the angle will be fine for most of the cut but change once I get to the 36" track.  I was just wondering if anyone else has had this problem or even noticed it. 
 
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