How to treat Mahogany?

micklen

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May 13, 2010
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Hello,
I just building a shower grid/floor in Mahogany.

Do anyone have any suggestions how I would treat the wood so it can stand water as good as possible without to get to slippery?

Maybe Tung oil (china oil) and some kind of topcoat as hardwax?

All inputs are welcome!

//Carl
 
i was also planning to do this but in Teak & possibly thought that the Teak would need no treatment ?
 
The combination of water and foot traffic is murder on any finish.  I've tried most of the marine varnish products (Epiphanes, Cetol, etc.) on porches and found that they are both slippery and need to be reapplied too frequently.  You will get black spots around fasteners pretty much whatever you do.  Simple oil, such as tung, just isn't durable at all (too soft).  So, I would just leave it bare.  With adequate drainage, both mahogany and teak will last for many years without rotting.
 
In the '80's, a friend of mine had an old Herreshoff racing sloop that was built in the Netherlands in the '50's. The hull was mahogany and the deck teak. Both were a little worse for wear but had survived quite well after all that time on the water and in the elements (plus crossing the pond at least once).

I can't say I know how it was cared for over time but I'm pretty sure all the hull got was bottom paint and it had mahogany exposed in the bilge. I could be wrong but that's my recollection. Perhaps a more knowledgeable sailor/shipwright can chime in...

Tom
 
Also in the eighties, I served in the Royal Netherlands Navy and one of my assignments was on a 40's wooden minesweeper. These ships were built using TRUE mahogany ( Swietenia mahagonii ) for the hull, and REAL teak ( Tectona grandis ) as decking. These were seagoing vessels, and although the mahogany hull was protected from the outside with a decent coat of paint ( Brink-Molyn color 21M - i did my part putting it on... ) The inside was more or less bare, to help the wood respirate. Ofcourse there was always water in the bilge, mixed with all kinds of oils in the engine room.
The teak deck was bare, with 1/4" rubberized seams. All that was used for maintenance was seawater, and sisal brushes to scrub it. On longer trips, now and then a little "sanding" with pumice was performed, to make it look neat in foreign harbours. Most of these vessels are still seaworthy - they're "conserved" by a rather elaborate process on the inside to protect the metal parts, followed by dehydrating the inner air and completely sealing the inside from the atmosphere. The deck however, is left bare. No problem, and the hulls are still in great condition as well.
These decks however, are old growth teak - you won't be able to buy that in another form than reclaimed lumber. Same goes for the mahogany hull.

When you make sure the grid is raised from the floor just a bit,  you'll get by without a finish - and it will be slip-proof. Actually that was the reason to leave the teak decking bare: it's great for anti-slip. Great grip with bare feet, and that's nice for showers as well.
Nowadays, old growth teak is just short of impossible to come by, and regulations prescribe safety footwear. Enter steel decking and anti-slip coats with embedded quartz sand.... Too bad for sailors, but a good development for the tropical forest.

Regards,

Job
 
Thanks for all the inputs!

So there is no good to use tung oil?

I read this and it seams that you could put a finishing layer of polymerized tung?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tung_oil

Have anyone tried that?
How will that surface be? glossy?

I have restored a par of old heavy garage doors i massive teak from the 50's.
On these did I use 8-10 layer of tung oil (thin layers) and finally did they looked as new (with a mat surface).
But I'm not familiarized with "polymerized" tung!

Do anyone know?

//Carl

 
You could finish it with Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer (CPES).  With 2 coats, it's waterproof.  Looks great, too.

Here's a vanity top I made of ribbon Sapel? (a mahogany) and sealed with CPES.  CPES is clear and will give a gloss finish.  It rubs down nicely.  I sanded it down to a nice sheen.  Since I applied a glaze to the profile, though, I actually added a coat of Arm-R-Seal Satin to lock that in.  The waterproofing, though, was CPES.  Note that though this is 'epoxy', it is still very flexible; you won't get a rigid product.



I buy it here; more information links are available there.

Jamestown Distributors CPES

(Let me just say that this site's photo attachment options are about as intuitive as making a space vehicle from PopTarts)
 
PaulMarcel said:
(Let me just say that this site's photo attachment options are about as intuitive as making a space vehicle from PopTarts)

I laughed when I read this... hilarious line Paul!
Tim
 
But thru perseverance and maybe tutorials here, Paul has posted countless images and even videos!

Thanks Paul!

 
How to treat Mahogany? ...

is this a trick question?...

With respect!  is the only answer.... [big grin]

Cheers,
Steve
 
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