How to ... wine rack

[d8b]

SWMBO is asking to build something to store our wine bottles. Since I'm a novice to woodworking, I tried to construct version 1 out op cheap pine (no to worrie about expensive mistakes I tought) After a million bad experiences with chip out, I threw version 1 on the scrap pile.
Some time went by and SWMBO saw a totally different design in a commercial (foto attached).
For the price (EUR 33,00) There's no way I can make this myself, but this one just leans against a wall. Our walls have just been painted (1 month ago), so no way we're putting something like that against a wall. OTOH, I like the design. So I came up with a design that included a base. My question to you guys, is the connection to the base strong enough?
It is 30mm white oak, all dominoed toghether (if I ever recieve my domino that I ordered 3 weeks ago)

thanks in advance.

Philippe

 

[ajones]

I would house it..or you could dovetail it.. there will be quite a load on the joint.you can still domino it as well if you house it.

 

[d8b]

I would house it..or you could dovetail it.. there will be quite a load on the joint.you can still domino it as well if you house it.

Thanks for the response. Dovetails is out of the question (novice remember, lack of skills) What exactly do you mean with " house it". Remember, English is not my native language, and ww terms is not something you learn in school.

greetz,

Philippe

 

[Kristian]

I would mount two support pieces on the back - perpendicular to the base and stand. Probably don't have to be so high - maybe to the secord or third row of holes and 10-15 cm deep. Put a profile on them or curve the back slightly to make them stand out less.

- Kristian

 

[ajones]

Hi
If you can create a housing you can create a sliding dovetail the dovetail would be stronger. A housing is a groove/slot cut in one part and the other fits in it

If your not quite up to that then dominoe'd and some long screws would suffice.

Its funny the asumptions we make I thought if you had a domino you would have a router [big grin]

good luck

 

[d8b]

I would mount two support pieces on the back

Kristian,

That's one option I'm considering, but I like the slim look without the support. If the consensus is that the joint won't be strong enough, this will porpably be the way I will do it.

thanks,

Philippe

 

[d8b]

Hi
If you can create a housing you can create a sliding dovetail the dovetail would be stronger. A housing is a groove/slot cut in one part and the other fits in it

If your not quite up to that then dominoe'd and some long screws would suffice.

Its funny the asumptions we make I thought if you had a domino you would have a router [big grin]

good luck

A sliding dovetail ... hadn't considered that.

I have a router, a Trend T11, great in the router table, but a little too heavy for handheld work. The dovetailslot in the base is no problem, but I'm wondering how to make the dovetail on the upright piece. First of all, how to route a dovetail on such a large (1200mm) piece, and secondly, how to make sure I get all the angles correct.

Maybe you didn't notice it on the drawing, and I should have explained it in my OP, but the middle board runs all the way trough, and I was hoping this would give me enough strength.

greetz,

Philippe

 

[Kristian]

Yeah, I would prefer the slim version too but I would be worried about the load on the joint like mentioned. If you spend some time on the supports, like curving the back, adding profiles etc. they could end up being a decorative part of the final design. Or you could consider doubling the thickness of the base by gluing 2 x 30 mm oak boards together and then house the stand into the thicker base. That should add some support as well.

- Kristian

 

[ajones]

Ha sorry I did not look at the second drawing that would work  [big grin]

I have the T11 great router and the PRT

but you are right It would a little dificult when there is no need.

 

[junk731]

I think you should be more concerned about how you are going to bore the angled holes to support the neck of the wine bottle, the picture of the original shows holes on a steep angle, not easily done. Also the off-verticle load on the unit could be quite high when fully loaded especially if you are storing large bottles. The original maker probably thought of the weight problem and opted for leaning unit against a wall, hopefully with good non-slip feet.

John

 

[d8b]

I think you should be more concerned about how you are going to bore the angled holes to support the neck of the wine bottle

John

That part is easy (now). I mad my brother something similar, but bolted to a wall. for his christmas. I still have the jig I used back then. It took me e few weeks (actually months) to come up with something that would work with my limited arsenal of tools.
he one I made for my brother wasn't angeled, so I had to make sure she angle didn't become too steep with the additional 10° angle. Last night I tried the jigg on a piece of 30mm MDF, and the angle is just fine.

greetz,

Philippe

 

[Top Knot]

I would also be careful about having such big flat base in contact with the floor. The chances of your base being perfectly flat as a novice aren't so good. Combine that with the chances of your floor matching those contours are even less. You can get around this by means of smallish studs or rubber feet.

Or if you are flexible with your design here is an option B:
[attachimg=#]

 

[d8b]

I would also be careful about having such big flat base in contact with the floor. The chances of your base being perfectly flat as a novice aren't so good. Combine that with the chances of your floor matching those contours are even less. You can get around this by means of smallish studs or rubber feet.

Rubber feet were already part of the plan, I didn't draw this in sketchup, because I just wanted to show the joinery.

Your alternative may be an option, althoug it has to be approved by the design approval commite (wife)

greetz,

Philippe

 

[Wonderwino]

This looks like half of a "riddling rack," which are usually built like an "A" frame - two of your big flat boards joined at the top with stretchers between the bottoms.

 

[grobin]

I would worry about the floor being level and would consider using a sorbothane pad.  But my big concern would be racking forces on the rack.  Using a thick base 4/4 or larger possibly with dominoes to align a deep dado.  I would avoid screws as they will wear the holes larger with the flex of the rack.  I like the clean lines but am doubtful of the durability.  But I would give it a try as there is always the option of adding steel support rods from the upper corners to the base if it looks like things are wearing too much.

 

[d8b]

This looks like half of a "riddling rack," which are usually built like an "A" frame - two of your big flat boards joined at the top with stretchers between the bottoms.

Correct, however, since the rack will live close to a wall, the back side won't be of much use

greetz,

Philippe

 

[d8b]

Apperantly, SWMBO and I were on different levels. No actual dimensions were mentioned and apperantly, she envisioned it a lot less tall. This would off course lessen the stress on the joint.

I'm going to give the project a cool down period to account for other design changes by the one person desing review board.

I would worry about the floor being level and would consider using a sorbothane pad

The floor is definately not level, we have textured tiles. Some form of rubber feet will be used.

Thanks for all the reply's.

I will try to document the build.

greetz,

Philippe

 

[Wonderwino]

This looks like half of a "riddling rack," which are usually built like an "A" frame - two of your big flat boards joined at the top with stretchers between the bottoms.

Correct, however, since the rack will live close to a wall, the back side won't be of much use

greetz,

Philippe

If it can reside against the wall, perhaps a French cleat at the top would be all that is necessary to stabilize it.

 

[jvsteenb]

I would worry about the wine as well.....

These racks were invented for champagne bottles, as they need to be turned frequently in the stage that the sediment is supposed to sink to the cork. Hence the cork down position.
But champagne bottles are also very strong, designed to withstand high pressures, AND the strain that this treatment brings on to the neck.
Even if your rack itself will be able to take the load, your precious Domaine de la Romanée Conti will definitely taste better at the right time from a nice glass, then suddenly from the carpet, which is were it might well end up being if you accidentally bumped into it.... [scared]

Just a thought...

Regards,

Job

 

[Tinker]

Apperantly, SWMBO and I were on different levels. No actual dimensions were mentioned and apperantly, she envisioned it a lot less tall. This would off course lessen the stress on the joint.

I'm going to give the project a cool down period to account for other design changes by the one person desing review board.

I would worry about the floor being level and would consider using a sorbothane pad

The floor is definately not level, we have textured tiles. Some form of rubber feet will be used.

Thanks for all the reply's.

I will try to document the build.

greetz,

Philippe

Not knowing how rough (out of level) your floor is, I would like to suggest using three rubber feet.  If you use four, there will be possibility for a continual wobble (bounce from side to side between the two feet that never seem to be able to touch floor at same time).  With three rubber feet, the stability will be much better.  Put two feet at the rear of the base and one in the center of the front extension.
Tinker