How would you do this on site?

[rnt80]

I have to retrofit a space this weekend with diamond shaped storage cubbies (similar to those pictured) for wine bottles.  I'm going to prep most of the material at the shop but the assembly will be done on site.  I've been mulling some ideas around in my head about how to efficiently do this...dominos, brads? Anyone done this before?

 

[Alan m]

i presume it will be made with 3/4( only guessing) x 12"(also guessing. probably ply with a lipping.
you could make a jig to do half lap joints where a groove is router across the piece just over half the width in and the full way throught the thickness.
a series of these grooves every 3"(guess) would produce a latic work like the once assmbled

 

[woodguy7]

Like Alan said, half laps.  Table saw or radial arm saw would be good also.

Woodguy.

 

[Jonhilgen]

I'd buy some [wink]...or half lap. 

 

[tiralie]

Curious as to why you have to assemble this on site?
Tim

 

[rnt80]

A couple of reasons.  The customer measured for me so I haven't been out there to do an actual measure myself.  Additionally, this will be inside a space that has a face frame so I'm not entirely sure that I could have it preassembled and have it fit.  At this point I'm thinking I'll probably do a combination of nailing into tops of the pieces and then toenailing the bottom portion in place.

 

[flair woodworks]

Russell,

If you are only doing the "lattice", couldn't you make it in your shop oversized, then cut to to size on site?  I'd use lap joints cut with a dado blade for the joints.

 

[tiralie]

A couple of reasons.  The customer measured for me so I haven't been out there to do an actual measure myself.  Additionally, this will be inside a space that has a face frame so I'm not entirely sure that I could have it preassembled and have it fit.  At this point I'm thinking I'll probably do a combination of nailing into tops of the pieces and then toenailing the bottom portion in place.

I have not done this but thinking through the problem, and depending on the budget you could buy lattice pannels (or make it?) finish it and then trim them to fit them on inside the cabinet on site. Working from the back of the cab, I would probably use a dab of epoxy or melamine glue depending on the finish on the inside of the existing cabinet and then pin nail each fitted lattice grid until I reached the front.
The easiest but maybe not the best look esthetically would be to build a box (offsite) that fit inside the face frame finish to match put your lattice inside that and then when you get to the site, just slide it in and fix it to the sides of the existing cabinet.
BTW, do you also have to finish this (lattice I am assuming)?
Working inside that face frame box is going to be a pain.
Good luck.
Tim

 

[rnt80]

I hadn't planned on doing a gridwork of "lattice" for this.  I was just going to use 3/4" ply.  I'll try an explain my thoughts about what I'm envisioning as best I can.  Each piece running from right to left would be a solid piece of ply that run the depth of the cabinet.  The pieces that run perpendicular to those would be strips that are as deep as the cabinet but would only be the wide as a bottle of wine.  The individual strips would be toenailed at the bottom into the solid pieces.  I would use a spacer to get the spacing uniform with these.  Once I had a whole row of the perpendicular strips toenailed in place I could put another piece of the solid ply on top and nail down through it into the tops of the strips.  That would give me one row of cubbies for bottles, it would juse be a matter of repeating that process to fill up the space.  Does this make sense?

 

[tiralie]

Does this make sense?

If I understand correctly, at some point geometry will kick your butt. When the space for the next horizontal shelf (left to right solid piece) is less than the hypotenuse + the thickness of the stock, you won't be able to get the next level in so at some point you will need to load the cabinet with the remaining horizontal shelves and then hold them up while you work below them.
It might be easier to flip the construction 90 degrees and put a dado on full size vertical pieces put some glue on and slip the horizontal strips in between. You could do this in your shop, but leave the center strips out and then fit the two sides and fine tune the middle. This of course means you will have a double wall on either side of the existing cabinet which may not be acceptable.
That is if I understand you correctly.
Tim

 

[rnt80]

I ended up drawing out a full scale mock up of the space to get an idea of how this will all fit together.  The opening is approx. 2' high and 4' wide.  I have to construct two of x type storage bins on the ends of the opening, those will be separated by the individual bottle holders we've been discussing here.  I'm glad I came to you guys for suggestions.  After looking at the mock up drawing I took the advice of using a lattice work structure for the middle section.  I made one grid of half-lap joints this afternoon and will do the other tomorrow.  I can assemble these over sized and then cut them on site with the ts55 to fit exactly.  This will be so much easier than what I had planned before.  Thanks for all the suggestions, I'll post some pics when I get it done.