How would you guys do this?

[AtomicRyan]

So I am building a cabinet/shelf system for my wife that is going to live in the dining room. I've already built most of the bottom carcasses and now I'm starting to think about the counter top. The entire system (besides the insides of the cabinets) will be painted black.

How would you guys build the counter top given the width?

Visually, I would like it to be around 1.5" thick and have thought of building it out of maple ply and then using something like Fastcap's counter bolts (https://www.fastcap.com/product/flipbolt-countertop-connector) to get the length that I need. These bolts would ensure a tight seem and then poplar edge banding would take care of the front facia.

But, if I build this thing in my shop and then move it to the house, I'm afraid I'll destroy the walls trying to slide it into the dining room given the width.

How would you guys do this? Any ideas?

[attachimg=1]

 

[AtomicRyan]

Another thought...I actually have two of these:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/The-Baltic...cher-Block-Birch-Kitchen-Countertop/999931668

They were given to me... so I wouldn't feel all that bad about painting them or maybe using a black stain... and I think I'd have more confidence joining them using cabinet bolts on site.

 

[sancho57]

Lots of ways to do what you want.

One way( The way i would do it) is to use 3/4 ply, cut the seam/joint where the sides of the shelving would be to hide the joint,

use dominos or pocket holes to join the 2 pieces together.

Then use a edging of hard wood using dominos or pocket holes to give the countertop the appearance of being 6/4 thick.

 

[ChuckM]

Snip.
But, if I build this thing in my shop and then move it to the house, I'm afraid I'll destroy the walls trying to slide it into the dining room given the width.

Can't you do the assembly in the house when the top is put together?

Anyway, I am (almost) a domino-everything kinda guy, and so I'd use dominoes. Not sure if the domino connectors are suitable, too.

 

[Job and Knock]

I'd build the top in two or possibly three pieces with the abutting ends thickened to 25 or 30mm to give enough"meat" for the dogbone fasteners you linked to work with. As you need to recess the underside of the top by about 12mm to accommodate the dogbones and it's a reasonable approach to have 10mm of thickness above that, it stands to reason that where the ends butt together you'll need a bit more than 18mm. Multiple part tops for restaurant bars, etc are commonly made this way in the UK and the fasteners ensure that the joints pull-up nice and tight - something you'll struggle to do with Dominos in-situ because you'll never get cramps in at the outer ends. Just make sure that where the dogbones are you leave access holes (in the tops of the cabinets, beneath the tops) to get the spanner in that you need to use to tighten the dogbones

 

[AtomicRyan]

I'm starting to lean towards using those butcher block tops from Lowes, dominoes to ensure alignment, and cabinet bolts for clamping pressure.... I'll cut it for a close fit in the shop and assemble it in the dining room.

 

[nclemmons]

Why can't you make it as two pieces that are longer than the full width

1 - lay the left side in place and scribe it to the left wall. 
2 - Remove that and put the right side in place and scribe it to the right wall.  Then cut with your track saw to those lines.
3 - Measure the full width across the front edge of the cabinet
4 - Cut the pieces to match that full width less maybe 1/8" clearance
5 - Lay out the mortises under the two pieces for the Counter connector routing.  Then install and use counter connectors under the top to pull the two sides together

Unless the wall sides are square and straight, placing as one piece and not damaging the wall could be a challenge.

Using the above technique, the joint could be under one of the uprights, dead center, or wherever you want it.  I would put the base in place, then the top, then the uprights to simplify construction.  I don't see an easy way to 'slide' the two sides in under the uprights if the top section is already in place.

This could work for plywood, the butcher block or any surface you might choose.

neil

 

[RKA]

I think you're on the right track, built it in pieces and assemble in the dining room using hardware like you showed.  I do like jobsworth's suggestion to keep the seams under the verticals for the upper shelving, so maybe do the countertop in 3 even sections (judging by your picture)?  If the banding on the face will be a different finish, I might even add some banding on the left and right edge of the center section so the seams become accents rather than just a seam.  That's a common approach when you're trying to hide something...go the other way and just draw the eye to it.

 

[AtomicRyan]

You guys are the best. Thanks!

 

[duburban]

seamless solid surface? sounds better than plywood to me but it is plastic...

 

[tjbnwi]

Once the cabinets are in make a template using drywall shim. Place template on top, mark and cut to lines.

Raising the top on an angle place one side against the wall. On the high side place a piece of aluminum coil stock against the wall. Begin to lower the top, it will slide on the aluminum. Once on the cabinet, pull the coil stock.

I have also spread walks when necessary.

Dominos and glue with pocket screws from below will work just fine to assemble the pieces.

Remember with the butcher block all the seams and patterns may not line up.

Tom

 

[Tezzer]

I made a solid one piece 170" top using the TS75 and domino, it's not as difficult as it appears moving it around through a house. Seamless look so much better than joined. Well worth the effort.

 

[Steve1]

You are never going to build it exactly the correct length, and as mentioned, who is to say the two side walls are exactly plumb.  build it a few inches narrower and fit some filler strips between the cabinet and the walls.

 

[semenza]

I have done up to 12' with the template method that Tom suggests.

Seth

 

[Kodi Crescent]

I'm getting ready to do something similar for a desktop.  I plan on ripping BB into strips (like flooring) and then using Domino's to join the ends to make several long planks (I need 85" rough width vs. 60" BB sheet width).  I'll then Domino and edge join the strips, offsetting the end joints to an oversize width. 

Once I have a rough desktop, I'll rip some waste material to build a template across the back and sides.  I'll scribe the template to the walls, cut out the template scribe lines, and transfer the marks to the desktop.  I'll then cut the scribes into the desktop.  I plan on leaving at least 1/8" all around for any type of movement.  My abutting walls are not finished, so no concern about damage.

Once installed, I'll build a wainscotting-type frame along the sides and the back which contains a corkboard for notes, pictures, etc.  These will be installed vertically and are intended to cover the gaps where the desktop meets the wall.

I used 3/8" Poplar as banding material on my cabinets.  It dents easily and tends to get banged up during transfers and installs (at least for my project).  Lesson learned.  I'll use Maple next time.

 

[Cheese]

So I am building a cabinet/shelf system for my wife that is going to live in the dining room.

I like the Mac amps staring back at you. [big grin]

 

[DeformedTree]

How about make the center a separate counter top that sits a few inches higher than the wings?

 

[tiralie]

On the high side place a piece of aluminum coil stock against the wall. Begin to lower the top, it will slide on the aluminum. Once on the cabinet, pull the coil stock.

Brilliant!
tim

 

[Alanbach]

I guess I don’t understand why you need cabinet bolts, dog bones, etc.. Why wouldn’t you just build the lowers out of 3/4” ply and install them plumb and level. Then cut two pieces of 3/4” ply whose length is approximately half of the width needed. Then scribe each piece as Neilc described. Lay one down in place and then measure accurately for the second one and crosscut. Then raise up the two pieces in the middle and snug them up on the sides. Once you have done that you can just lower them together in the middle. You can start a touch long and trim to get just the tightness that you want. Then nail (or screw) through from the bottom up through the tops of the lowers into the underside of the top. Then machine a nice piece of hard maple edging and you are in business. This piece is to be painted so any imperfections in the seam should be able to be filled easily, just like the seam between the top and the trim piece on the front edge.