HVLP guns

[HowardH]

My biggest issue with the WB is the dry times and being tight on space.  I also live in a very humid environment too. So, that doesnt help either. 

These are the drying racks we use.

The black ones (Door RackPainter) allow you to shoot 2 sides the set aside to dry.

The wood ones we made for larger panels.

They may help with your tight space.

Last pics is how we rack and spray large doors. The rotators are an adaptation from my automotive restoration days.

Tom

I built another toy box and purchased Sherwin-Williams Emerald water-based urethane paint.  The SW guys said I don't need to thin it with water first but I'm not sure my Fuji 4 stage can handle unthinned paint.  Should I add a little bit of water first?

 

[tjbnwi]

Assuming gloss or semi-gloss, 1.4 tip, 25ish seconds using a Ford 4 or Zahn 2 (the Ford 4 should have come with your Fuji). 

Temperature will also play a role in how thin it is.

Tom

 

[HowardH]

Holy cow!  I did a few test runs with the Ford 4 and even after adding water, it still runs about double the time.  Do I really need to thin it that much?  It seems it would almost have to be 25% water.  I don't want to ruin the paint. 

 

[DynaGlide]

Holy cow!  I did a few test runs with the Ford 4 and even after adding water, it still runs about double the time.  Do I really need to thin it that much?  It seems it would almost have to be 25% water.  I don't want to ruin the paint.

Other option is to heat the paint. I had to do 18 percent on SW proclassic to get it down to 45s through the Ford cup.

 

[gunnyr]

Holy cow!  I did a few test runs with the Ford 4 and even after adding water, it still runs about double the time.  Do I really need to thin it that much?  It seems it would almost have to be 25% water.  I don't want to ruin the paint.

I shoot Emerald with a 1.3 at about 30 seconds on the Ford Cup that came with my Fuji.  Thin it as much as it takes to get it to the viscosity you need, then you can add what ever flavor of retarder you want (Flotrol, etc).  Until I learned to trust the Ford Cup I was not able to get a decent finish.  I spoke with some Fuji folks at IWS a couple of years ago who confirmed the approach.  What I'm told is that the manufactures will publish limits on thinning due to VOC requirements. 

 

[HowardH]

Holy cow!  I did a few test runs with the Ford 4 and even after adding water, it still runs about double the time.  Do I really need to thin it that much?  It seems it would almost have to be 25% water.  I don't want to ruin the paint.

I shoot Emerald with a 1.3 at about 30 seconds on the Ford Cup that came with my Fuji.  Thin it as much as it takes to get it to the viscosity you need, then you can add what ever flavor of retarder you want (Flotrol, etc).  Until I learned to trust the Ford Cup I was not able to get a decent finish.  I spoke with some Fuji folks at IWS a couple of years ago who confirmed the approach.  What I'm told is that the manufactures will publish limits on thinning due to VOC requirements.

That's a bunch of water to get it down to 30 sec. I'll try it on sample piece of wood.  Thanks for the heads up!

 

[HowardH]

Thanks for the heads up about using Urethane paint.  I'm much, much happier with the results.  I'll never go back to using latex again

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[krudawg]

I have a 4 stage Fuji turbine system with the standard bottom feed cup. I'd like to get a gravity feed sprayer to go with it but all I see at the big box stores are HVLP guns that appear to need to use a regular compressor verses a turbine for air delivery.  I'll suck it up and spend $400 if I need to get a Fuji gun but what other alternatives are there?  I want to spray latex enamel for a toy chest I'm finishing up this weekend.

Take a look at the Aerojet RS1.  It's inexpensive ($160) and I am very happy with the results.  I use the Aerojet to spray oil based stain only with my MiniMite4 HVLP Fuji system