HVLP purchase help!

Tim Raleigh said:
rnt80 said:
I ended up taking the filter off of the fluid tube after spraying some tinted lacquer since I wasn't able to get the fluid to the gun I wanted.

Hu? Which filter on which fluid tube? Which lacquer were you using? If you were using Target 6500 (pigmented) lacquer the mini mite 3 will not be able to atomize it without a lot of frustration resulting in a less than optimal finish.
Tim

Tom is right, I was referring to the 200 micron filter on the end of the tube.  I was using Target's pigmented lacquer and after removing that filter it sprayed just fine.  I too filter everything before I spray it so I wasn't concerned about contaminating the finish by removing the filter at the end of the fluid tube in the cup. 
 
Are the filters in the PPS removable?  Has anyone had issues with pushing thick material through the PPS system?  I have some high solids primer from Target Coatings that I plan on using on an upcoming job and I would like to start using the PPS system but not if it will be a non starter with this product.
 
rnt80 said:
Are the filters in the PPS removable?  Has anyone had issues with pushing thick material through the PPS system?  I have some high solids primer from Target Coatings that I plan on using on an upcoming job and I would like to start using the PPS system but not if it will be a non starter with this product.

Yes, the filter on the lid is removable. There is a tab on it so it is easy to peel off. I highly recommend straining the product if you remove the lid strainer.

One other thing I highly recommend is a remote control switch for the turbine. I place the turbine away from the spray area, it made it a pain to turn the unit on and off. On the last job I used the Fact Cap remote control, it work very well. Fuji now markets a remote if you want to go with a same brand item.

Tom

 
rnt80 said:
Has anyone had issues with pushing thick material through the PPS system?

Nope, use the PPS to spray Target 6500. No problem. I mostly use my CAT H2O gun and a compressor though.

rnt80 said:
I have some high solids primer from Target Coatings that I plan on using on an upcoming job and I would like to start using the PPS system but not if it will be a non starter with this product.

Without thinning, I doubt you will be able to spray that primer very easily with the mini mite 3. It has a Zahn #4 rating of 60 (centipoise 850) which is the same as the old EM6500. The new 6500 with the acrylic base has a Zahn #4 rating of 30. I have had problems spraying the old 6500 using my Q4 without using a pressure pot and compressor. Even then I wasn't entirely happy with the atomization. I had slow down a lot, good thing it levels well.
Tim
 
Tim Raleigh said:
rnt80 said:
Has anyone had issues with pushing thick material through the PPS system?

Nope, use the PPS to spray Target 6500. No problem. I mostly use my CAT H2O gun and a compressor though.

Tim, I have a 2qt pressure pot but I can't get larger tips/nozzles for the my gun and the largest I have is 1.7.  One of the reasons I bought the MM3 was to use exclusively for pigmented coats.  My pot set up is now used for clear coats only.

rnt80 said:
I have some high solids primer from Target Coatings that I plan on using on an upcoming job and I would like to start using the PPS system but not if it will be a non starter with this product.

Without thinning, I doubt you will be able to spray that primer very easily with the mini mite 3. It has a Zahn #4 rating of 60 (centipoise 850) which is the same as the old EM6500. The new 6500 with the acrylic base has a Zahn #4 rating of 30. I have had problems spraying the old 6500 using my Q4 without using a pressure pot and compressor. Even then I wasn't entirely happy with the atomization. I had slow down a lot, good thing it levels well.
Tim

If I have to thin it a bit that's fine.  I don't know if I'll get to it this weekend but I'll post an update on how everything goes.
 
rnt80 said:
If I have to thin it a bit that's fine.  I don't know if I'll get to it this weekend but I'll post an update on how everything goes.

You could use another primer. The SW primers are good and easier to spray.
Do you really need that high a build?
Tim
 
I too am looking to buy an HLVP sprayer to paint my kitchen cabinets and doors.  I don't want to use oil based paint, so looking to use something like Benjamin Moore's Advance waterborne Alkyd enamel.  Any recommendations on a moderately priced HLVP that can handle a water based paint?
 
Bump-

Any feedback on the Fuji minimite or lph-400 as an HVLP Setup?

Grasshopper said:
How does the Fuji minimite setup compare to say an Iwata lph-400 with a good compressor?

I had been thinking down the road that the iwata was my upgrade path. The Fuji, by comparison is a bargain so I wondered how they would compare.
 
I use fuji minimite 3.  Im a total novice.  I got this finish with very little practice.[attachimg=1]
 

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The Fuji minimite has lived up to the hype for the first few months, although it has only been used a few times. I do not find it overly loud either...maybe it's just because I'm used to being around big, loud woodworking machines and have earmuffs on...  I did buy the 3m PPS system and adapter and find it so much easier to clean the system, compared to the stock cup and filtering system.  The true test will be in the spring when I spray latex paint on my new cupboards and cabinets that I have been refacing. But, so far, so good!  I recommend it!
 
Thanks for the posts in favor of the Minimite.  I purchased a Wagner HVLP from Amazon based on rave reviews (thinking about spraying trim outside), but as I approach doing some built-ins, I'm not sure I want to risk it with a $100 sprayer.  here is the one I have still sitting in the box: http://www.amazon.com/Wagner-0518080-Control-Spray-Sprayer/dp/B003PGQI48/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1426183874&sr=1-1&keywords=wagner+hvlp)

I'm curious how the Minimite stacks up from the pro's point of view (or I suppose the Wagner for that matter)

I'd just hate to use $5,000+ worth of festools to make sure my built ins look awesome, only to bring the piece down a notch at the final stage (the stage on display for all to see).  Why go to the trouble of making awesome screw free joints if the end result is orange peel, or other "blemishes").  I see a lot of white paint spraying in my near future for my own personal home based projects (trim, window seats, built ins, fireplace surround, smaller furniture, etc.)

I'm a hobbyist, so I don't think I can justify a large compressor system (nor would likely have the expertise to appreciate the difference).  If the Minimite is the right fit (or the Wagner I still have in the box for that matter), it would be good to know.  If there is another option that is even a better fit, I'm all ears there as well.

If I have to dig into my wallet further (without going too crazy of course) I am willing to do so for this critical step as long as it makes the right difference.  (in other words, if the difference between my $100 sprayer to the Minimite (or from the Minimite to something more robust) is marginal, I can decide for the "occasional" household hobby project.

I appreciate the feedback thus far and look forward to your direction.
 
Grasshopper said:
If there is another option that is even a better fit, I'm all ears there as well.

There is nothing wrong with a high quality coating and a good brush.

I like Fuji and would recommend them to anyone who really wants to spray, but getting great results is less about the machine and more experience with the coatings, mil thickness, temperature, ventilation etc.

I think for the occasional hobbyist, spraying maybe more of investment in dollars and time than they bargain for.
You can go nuts trying to create a "clean" room etc. to accomplish a finish that ultimately you may be as happy if you just applied it with a brush.

Tim
 
Thanks tim.

Tim Raleigh said:
Grasshopper said:
If there is another option that is even a better fit, I'm all ears there as well.

There is nothing wrong with a high quality coating and a good brush.

I like Fuji and would recommend them to anyone who really wants to spray, but getting great results is less about the machine and more experience with the coatings, mil thickness, temperature, ventilation etc.

I think for the occasional hobbyist, spraying maybe more of investment in dollars and time than they bargain for.
You can go nuts trying to create a "clean" room etc. to accomplish a finish that ultimately you may be as happy if you just applied it with a brush.

Tim
 
Tim Raleigh said:
Grasshopper said:
If there is another option that is even a better fit, I'm all ears there as well.

There is nothing wrong with a high quality coating and a good brush.

I like Fuji and would recommend them to anyone who really wants to spray, but getting great results is less about the machine and more experience with the coatings, mil thickness, temperature, ventilation etc.

I think for the occasional hobbyist, spraying maybe more of investment in dollars and time than they bargain for.
You can go nuts trying to create a "clean" room etc. to accomplish a finish that ultimately you may be as happy if you just applied it with a brush.

Tim

Agreed.  For most of my work, I'm either brushing or wiping it on.  The sprayer just makes quicker work of some of the larger jobs.
 
My wallet thanks this thread :).

What would be the best way to get an even coat(s) of white on say birch ply or similar white painted project?  I want to make some built ins that i will plan to paint white.  If I can paint with brush, roller, or wipe without brush stokes that would seem to be the way to go.
 
Hello I use the Fuji Super series 4 stage unit with a Fuji gravity XPC gun/ 3m PPS setup

I would never dream of spraying latex paint and use exclusively Sher-Wood Kem Aqua WB Lacquer and M.L.Campbell Aqualente WB stain blocking primer on Kitchen doors

I will be trying out the M.L.Campbell Aqualente WB Lacquer soon as they colour match to the Benjamin Moore colour charts

Using a 1.4MM needle and HS cap for the primer and 1.3 MM for the top coat Lacquer

Once you use WB lacquers you never would want to spray latex, just a beautiful factory look finish that latex can't match

No thinning required, use the 3M PPS setup to eliminate micro bubbles in the finish

30 min dry/ recoat time depending on humidity and temperature

Hope this helps out

Bruce [smile]

 
Grasshopper said:
What would be the best way to get an even coat(s) of white on say birch ply or similar white painted project?

What paint are you using or have you chosen?
My first thought would be to pick a brush or brushs that will work to get the finish you want. See Scott Burt's primer on brushes. You will have to do some test pieces to find out what works for you. I like the higher quality SW paints.
 
I haven't selected a paint or brush. It will all be new to me so I'm all ears. Thanks for the suggestions!

Tim Raleigh said:
Grasshopper said:
What would be the best way to get an even coat(s) of white on say birch ply or similar white painted project?

What paint are you using or have you chosen?
My first thought would be to pick a brush or brushs that will work to get the finish you want. See Scott Burt's primer on brushes. You will have to do some test pieces to find out what works for you. I like the higher quality SW paints.
 
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