I know I'm an idiot, but am I doing something wrong???

[smirak]

So, I know I'm an idiot, wife tells me nearly daily

That said, I have the Pro5 ROS and I'm wondering if I'm just doing something wrong.  When I go to sand with it, the sander is very unwieldy.  I'm not sure the best way to describe it, but it doesn't just "glide" across the wood and it seems to jump around.  It does this regardless of if I put a lot of pressure on the sander, or light pressure.  Sometimes, it's like it "grabs" the wood and jumps to another spot.  Sanding a large -ish bed bench top that is around 14 inches wide by 54 inches long and I was expecting to just start in one corner, sand all around the board, but I find myself fighting the sander.  It's irrelevant of grit as well.  from 40grit all the way to 320grit (granat paper).

Does my technique just suck and I need to adjust something, or is it just supposed to be like that?

Thanks,
Kevin

 

[RKA]

Some people had similar issues with them when it was released.  They were sent back to Festool for repair.  I'm not sure if it was just a bad batch of sanding pads (uneven) or something else.  But they did behave as the other sanders do when you're sanding an uneven or wavy surface, constantly grabbing and pulling.

 

[Gregor]

In case you have attached it to a dust extractor: try with reduced suction.
PS: I vaguely remember reading various topics where this was the solution to similar problems with various sanders... and it solved a similar problem with my RO 150 E.

 

[smirak]

Thanks RKA.  I'll look into it from a manufacturing standpoint, but to clarify, it was an uneven/wavy surface, so before I look at the manufacturing aspect, I'll look into a smooth surface to rule that out (if necessary). 

Thanks Gregor for the suction advice.  I'm relatively new to sanders and dust extractors, so I'll look at that as a possible suspect too!

Thanks again,
Kevin

 

[Michael Kellough]

I’ve never had the problem but one of the solutions suggested in the past was to “break-in” the sander by running it a hour (or more?) while suspended from a rope. They said it helped.

It that’s true t

 

[ChuckS]

I have two of those sanders. The only time I experienced something slightly close to what you described is when the sander was not properly balanced, such as the hose end causing the sander to tilt slightly. My solution is to hold the sander by the hose to stabilize the sander. The sander can be operated with one hand like that, or two hands. Try this to see if the off balance is what caused your problem. If the problem persists, time to contact Festool service while your sander is still under warranty.

 

[Michael Kellough]

My keyboard (or something) failed during previous post. Can’t even modify...

If “break-in” is sometimes required (never in my experience) then I suspect the rubber dust seal on top of the pad is too tight. With use it should wear down (“break-in”). Or you could try a little lube so it’s allows the top of the pad to slide around under the rubber.

 

[jarbroen]

I've had the pro 5 for a while and have used it a bunch. 
At first I was having the same issue you're experiencing - it would jump around quite a bit on the surface.
I'm not new to sanders and was primarily using a Dewalt orbital before (without DC).

Adjusting the suction down to half or so on my CT26 helped a bit.  But I think the sander does need a bit of break in as now it's super smooth when I use it.  I also had to replace the pad a few months ago because my wife destroyed the original.
That new pad may have made an improvement as well.

Now that I read what I wrote I realize my anecdote may be useless... lol

I'd suggest adjusting the suction and just give the sander a go.  If you put an hour or two of use into and still have issues jumping around - that's what the 3 years of service is for.

 

[RKA]

Thanks RKA.  I'll look into it from a manufacturing standpoint, but to clarify, it was an uneven/wavy surface, so before I look at the manufacturing aspect, I'll look into a smooth surface to rule that out (if necessary). 

Thanks Gregor for the suction advice.  I'm relatively new to sanders and dust extractors, so I'll look at that as a possible suspect too!

Thanks again,
Kevin

Try it on a piece of plywood, they are generally flat enough.  At least that should rule out the sander being the issue.

 

[techne]

I had the same symptoms that you're describing.  I sent my Pro5 back to Festool, and when I got it back it was perfectly smooth.  It's been a pleasure ever since.

There's a good discussion of the issue here:http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-tool-reviews/review-of-pro5-limited/

 

[pettyconstruction]

I have the pro 5 and Ro-125 and I had to “break it in”.
I think Erock had a post about it,
Run it for about 4 hours.
Sounds bad , but I hung mine with a bungee and turned it on.
Took the fight wright out of it.
Charlie

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[Bob D.]

I have the pro 5 and Ro-125 and I had to “break it in”.
I think Erock had a post about it,
Run it for about 4 hours.
Sounds bad , but I hung mine with a bungee and turned it on.
Took the fight wright out of it.
Charlie

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Did you have the problem with the RO125 also? Mine has been like this from day one and I always figured it was just because it was more aggressive than a 'normal' ROS. Doesn't matter which mode or grit paper I am using, and I have tried reducing the suction on my CT36 which has helped some but still an issue. As a result I don't use it as often as I would like for the money invested. I end up using my RTS400 and save the RO125 for heavy work.

 

[smirak]

Thanks again all. I tried everything except the “break in “ period, which I’m doing now. I’ve already initiated the return through FT.

 

[SoonerFan]

Did you have the problem with the RO125 also? Mine has been like this from day one and I always figured it was just because it was more aggressive than a 'normal' ROS. Doesn't matter which mode or grit paper I am using, and I have tried reducing the suction on my CT36 which has helped some but still an issue. As a result I don't use it as often as I would like for the money invested. I end up using my RTS400 and save the RO125 for heavy work.

My RO125 took a while to become really smooth during use.  I looked at Erocks video but decided to just sand a couple big projects with it vs. hanging it up and letting it run.  After a while it was much easier to use.  I always figured it was a combination of “break in” and technique.  Now it’s smooth every time regardless of mode or abrasive.

I have a DTS 400 as well.  If I were you I would stick with the RO for a couple big projects to see if you can get it to cooperate.  Really much faster for bigger or more aggressive sanding needs.

Good luck!

 

[travisj]

My Pro5 and my DTS400 were both “jumpy” when I first got them.  I sent both in for service within the first month.  Parts were changed in the Pro5, but I was told the DTS was fine.  The DTS really smoothed out with use (break-in?).  I usually turn the suction all the way down with my CT26.  Occasionally it is still jumpy, but I have found it is usually because of positioning (relation of sander to workpiece and relation of sander to your body for control).  I have only used my Pro5 once, but if I recall it performed like my ETS150.  I could guide it around by holding the vac hose.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ChuckS]

Since some people's sanders became "normal" after a break-in period while others did not report a similar need, I wonder if Festool has any official position or words about the so-called "break-in." I don't recall seeing anything about "break-in" in the PRO5 manual.

 

[lwoirhaye]

I haven't looked into the tech that's being used today.  I had an older DeWalt sander with a plastic ring inside that acted as a break on the speed so when you took it off of wood it wouldn't speed up and gouge the work when you start sanding again.  I suspect something like that plastic ring is what needs to be broken in.

 

[AlexThePalex]

If “break-in” is sometimes required (never in my experience) then I suspect the rubber dust seal on top of the pad is too tight. With use it should wear down (“break-in”).

What you call the dust seal is actually called the "pad brake" and is there to make sure the pad doesn't speed up dramatically when you lift the sander off the surface. It is meant to give the pad some resistance, and can indeed be too tight with a new machine, and needs a bit of a break in to wear down to a more acceptable tightness.

 

[Bob D.]

Thanks everyone for your feedback and input.  Is there any estimate of how long this 'break in' period is in hours or minutes? I probably have over 2 hours of run time on my RO125. Is that still considered new or is it anywhere near getting broke in I am wondering.

I don't understand why a tool such as this would require a break in in the first place. Seems like something is amiss in manufacturing or assembly if that's the case. Else it would be right up front in the manual to eliminate the confusion and complaints that we see listed here. Or they would perform the break in before sending it out and make sure it was operating to spec.

What other tools do I need to break in I wonder.

 

[deepcreek]

[member=60461]Bob D.[/member]

I posted this here a few years ago when someone had a similar question.
http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-tools-accessories/ets-125-eq-sander-help-needed/

For the record, I'm currently using seven sanders in my shop. 
(RO-90, RO-150, ETS-150/3, ETS-150/5, RAS-115, RTS-400, DTS-400)


The last Festool sander I bought was a RTS 400 which essentially has the same powerplant as the DTS 400 and the ETS 125.

Upon initial use, it produced a terrible ozone smell.  Festool technical support advised me to run it for 8 to 10 hours to allow the brushes to burn in and seat properly.  After the rope-a-dope trick, the smell was gone and the sander has run perfectly ever since.

I would have just exchanged it but it was the last one in stock at my local dealer and I needed it for a job that I was doing.

For the record, I have owned nine different Festool sanders including the ETS 125 although I'm currently down to just six.

Break in period or not, the OP needs to use minimal suction and only enough pressure to guide the sander.  Do not press down like every other brand of ROS you've ever used.