I still can't get my RO 125 to work right for me.

[rjwz28]

I've had my RO 125 for almost a year now and I still can't get it work smooth. I've tried all the suggestions, light pressure, fast speed, low suction, right hand on the back near the hose, etc. but it still jumps around and has a mind of its own. I removed the vacuum hose to see if I had too much suction but it didn't help. It seems like the only time I can get it to run smooth is when I have one side lifted above the work piece and I know that's not the right way as it's not going to sand flat. Even then, it's not consistant. I really want it to work as I really like the dust collection feature. If it was anything else, I would have gotten rid of it a long time ago. What else can I do? Help!

thanks,
Rob

 

[Brice Burrell]

Ron, it really is a matter of learning the balance of the tool.  That said, maybe the RO125 isn't right for you, and you'd be happier with one of the ETS sanders, either a 125 or one of the 150 models.

 

[nehardwoodfloors]

We had the same issue. We ended up returning it for the oh so smooth ro150. They do get smoother with time, but who has spare time?

 

[Sam Murdoch]

I have written on this issue here and on a few other forums - the RO125 - in my experience -  requires the steepest learning curve of any sander I have ever used. It is a very aggressive sander in any mode and with any grit and requires two hands and practice. If your are starting out with good flat wood you will not have many problems but if you are working on an irregular surface you will need to get past the bumps before the sander starts to behave.

Having said that I like it and use it often. It is my total replacement sander for anything I would have used a belt sander for in the past. AND most importantly I repeat  - if you are working on a good flat surface the RO125 can be a good finish sander - at least on woods harder than pine or basswood. I have used it to finish walnut and cherry tops and cabinetry with excellent results. It was trying to finish pine that was its true downfall in my estimation. Yes I could use every grit from 100 to 220 to get a pretty good surface but with the ETS 150/3 I can get better results stopping at 150 grit.

I don't know if the bigger pad of the RO150 is more forgiving but trying to do finish work with the 125 pushed me into buying the ETS150/3 and I could not have been happier. I am not giving up on the RO125. It is a very useful tool to own but I recognize its limits - at least in my hands - and with the ETS150/3 I have an excellent combination of sanders.

 

[rjwz28]

It seems harder to me when I use it for pieces that aren't wider than the pad. It just shakes the piece and jumps all over. I think it's better for me when I am sanding a larger area. But I stll have some problems with that.

 

[Tinker]

I have not tried using the RO 125, but do have the 150.
I can understand having a problem with either sander if you are not used to them wanting to take off in their own desired direction.

You mentioned having to tip the sander up (or down) and that is the trick to getting it to go where your want it to go.
I ran concrete trowel machines for many moons that had to be operated by same principle.  The action of the RO 150 was no surprise to me.

You do not have to tip the tool up (or down) any motre than absolutely necessary to get it going in the direction desired.
It is just a very subtle change in pressure to accomplish a change of direction from one side to the other.  Once you have the feel to do the one side or the other down pat, you then start working on how to get it to come to you or away from you.  that can be quite tricky as the "feel" is much harder to accomplish.  If that is where your problem is, try moving around your project (or turning the project) so you only have to move the disc from side to side.  That might be a whole lot easier for you.

I would not try using either the 125 or 150 with only one hand (it can be done once you are totally used to the tool) as it does take consentration until you do get the feel.

BTW:  The sander I seem to have biggest problem with handling is the LS 130.  It takes very little inattention for that one to come jumping back at me or running away and off the edge or into a corner.  The RO sanders and the LS operate on completely different principles of motion. I am comfortable with the RO's but the LS does take me by surprise upon occasion. [scared]

Tinker

 

[skids]

I honestly think the RO 125 hates softer woods..Using it on Oak Flooring is a complete joy. Taking it to a piece of fine furniture in my opinion is just not going show what the RO125 is best at.

I have said it before and I will say it again. As a finish sander the RO125 is a compromise and has a learning to curve to to get it to produce the results of a true finish sander.

 

[rjwz28]

This is the firs ROS I ever used that had a "learning curve". No other sander I've used had one. At over $400, I wouldn't think I needed to learn how to use it. I can see the Domino needing to learn and I love mine. But a RO sander?

Wouldn't it be bad to operate the sander with one side off the piece a little?

Thanks

 

[leakyroof]

BTW:  The sander I seem to have biggest problem with handling is the LS 130.  It takes very little inattention for that one to come jumping back at me or running away and off the edge or into a corner.  The RO sanders and the LS operate on completely different principles of motion. I am comfortable with the RO's but the LS does take me by surprise upon occasion. [scared]

Tinker

  Ah yes, been there, STILL doing that with MY LS130.... [embarassed]
I just don't use it enough, unlike others[Scott B. comes to mind]  I have to 'relearn' it everytime I take it out of its SYS... [mad]

 

[leakyroof]

This is the firs ROS I ever used that had a "learning curve". No other sander I've used had one. At over $400, I wouldn't think I needed to learn how to use it. I can see the Domino needing to learn and I love mine. But a RO sander?

Wouldn't it be bad to operate the sander with one side off the piece a little?

Thanks

  The cost of the sander isn't what's in your way, it's the design of the sander , esp. in Rotary mode that can be a 'hand' full. If you leave the pad half off a piece, then dust collection should suffer if you sand constantly. If you tilt the pad/sander on larger pieces that are bigger than the diameter of the sander, your sanding results and pad life could then suffer.
Don't feel bad about being foiled by a Rotex, I put off buying the 150mm/6" model for years, even after I bought the RO90 because I felt it was fighting me everytime I'd demo one in a store.  Now I have one after the Reconditioned Sale and I don't get frustrated by it like I used to.
Talk to Scott B, or watch his video and then talk to him in a PM. He makes it look controlled and easy.
Worst Case, you trade it out for an ETS150/5 and find an easier time working with that sander.  [blink]

 

[Tinker]

This is the firs ROS I ever used that had a "learning curve". No other sander I've used had one. At over $400, I wouldn't think I needed to learn how to use it. I can see the Domino needing to learn and I love mine. But a RO sander?

Wouldn't it be bad to operate the sander with one side off the piece a little?

Thanks

You don't lift/press to the point one side is off the piece.  You just increase/decrease the pressure and the tool will go where you direct it.

Another responder noted a problem with soft woods.  i had a problem a few years ago where i was sanding an item that had extremely hard wood beside soft wood.
I was having a terrible time getting the piece to come out flat using my RO 150.  The locust with a 1-1/2" knot was hardly being scratched while the softer pine was being scooped out. I was using the softer pad that came with the sander.  the pad was follwing the surface according to hardness/softness and making a big mess. I finally purchased a hard pad and suddenly i was able to control the surface undulations to where I actually got it flat across the entire piece.

Is it possible that changing to a pad of different hardness might work for you? (I find the hard pad makes it easier to maintain a level surface when sanding softer woods)
Tinker

 

[leakyroof]

This is the firs ROS I ever used that had a "learning curve". No other sander I've used had one. At over $400, I wouldn't think I needed to learn how to use it. I can see the Domino needing to learn and I love mine. But a RO sander?

Wouldn't it be bad to operate the sander with one side off the piece a little?

Thanks

You don't lift/press to the point one side is off the piece.  You just increase/decrease the pressure and the tool will go where you direct it.

Another responder noted a problem with soft woods.  i had a problem a few years ago where i was sanding an item that had extremely hard wood beside soft wood.
I was having a terrible time getting the piece to come out flat using my RO 150.  The locust with a 1-1/2" knot was hardly being scratched while the softer pine was being scooped out. I was using the softer pad that came with the sander.  the pad was follwing the surface according to hardness/softness and making a big mess. I finally purchased a hard pad and suddenly i was able to control the surface undulations to where I actually got it flat across the entire piece.

Is it possible that changing to a pad of different hardness might work for you? (I find the hard pad makes it easier to maintain a level surface when sanding softer woods)
Tinker

  Great point Tinker, I forget about switching pads to change sanding outcomes... [smile]

 

[rjwz28]

I am using the hard pad. That's the only one I've been using even though I got the soft one too.

And I've tried both modes with the same results.

thanks,
Rob