Ideas on using MFT3 for face frame (pocket screw) assembly

[Bell407]

Hey guys. I have contemplated purchasing the Kreg Klamp Table primarily for assembling face frames secured with pocket screws. Before doing that i would like to know what sort of ideas folks have come up with by using the MFT3 for the same purpose.

Thanks

 

[LooseSox]

I just use the festool clamps on the pieces being joined directly on the mft top. There is no point worrying about setting any dogs etc up for square as with the pocket holes joinery will pull itself square as long as your cuts are square. Even if you did set up a row of dogs or a fence, if the cuts aren't square then torquing up the screws will pull it to the angle of the cut.

Just clamp the rails and stiles where they need to be and drive the screws in. Too many people want to over complicate pocket hole joinery, which kind of defeats the purpose of using it to begin with.

 

[Birdhunter]

I do use my MFTs with Qwas dogs and Festool clamps to square up joints for glue-up. I seldom use pocket hole joinery as I've had bad experiences with the joints not lining up correctly after tightening the screws. I've read about combining pocket holes with Dominos. The Domino tenon is supposed the maintain alignment while the pocket hole screw brings the joint together.  I've not tried that technique yet.

Also my MFT top isn't perfectly flat so I have to be cautious about using it as a reference surface.

 

[Naildrivingman]

I'm in the process of building a small drop leaf table with flared legs. When I got to the point of fastening the legs to the apron, I couldn't figure out how to clamp the legs to the apron with pipe clamps becausethe 5 degree flare would make them slide. I clamped the apron to the MFT, then clamped a leg and drove the screws.  It probably took me longer to figure out that the MFT was the best option than it did to actually do the work. With a non flat top you may have some troubles, but if you could identify one flat area, could you just do one joint at a time?  Otherwise how about buying a piece of MDF, use it for your glue up and then recycle it into something else after you are done?

Good luck,
Chris

 

[jaguar36]

When I use pocket screws on the MFT, I use the Festool quick clamp to clamp down the piece without the screws, leaving like 1/8" of the clamp overhanging where the piece with the pockets will go.  I then slide the piece with the pocikets under the clamp and tap it into place.  Squareness is all taken up by the cuts on the board so no need to worry about that.  When I drive the screws in, I use a good amount of force to prevent the joint from opening up as the screws go in.  I've had good luck with this method and not having the face get out of alignment, and its quick.

 

[DynaGlide]

Are you referring to the Kreg KWS1000 work station? I bought one a few months back before I got any Festools. With an MFT/3 on the way I considered offloading it but I have my K4 jig mounted on it, it has a spot and screw holes already built in. I made up some wood supports left/right of the jig that are flush with the jigs surface to support larger work pieces. Even though I'm in a small garage workspace I think I'll hold onto the Kreg table because it's nice having the jig ready to go in a separate space that doesn't need to be cleared off when I need it. And the clamping options with the table will come in handy. I envision some day getting a second Kreg table if I ever have a larger space so I can connect them with 2x4's to rip down 4x8 sheet goods.

 

[Letsonbandr]

I am intrigued. 

I may have to start drawing up some plans for a clamp table as I have been contemplating an assembly table.  They are expensive but for production work they are invaluable.  I too am looking for a clamping table oriented on an "almost vertical" axis.  My thought after your post is to have a substantial substrate (1" x 4' x 8-10' MDF) CNC'd with super accurate parf holes similar to an MFT table, then using a "ledger plate" at the bottom to orient off of.  Integrate some 80-20 to act as a bridge over the surface and secure clamps to and I think were thinking of the same thing.  Insert accurate spacer blocks or use the parfs with dogs to space rails on the stiles and I think we can accomplish the same design for a Budget price.  I assume your talking about the table attached below?

 

[sancho57]

Kreg makes a little blue plate you can attach the clamp to. I made a template and routed a square out on my MFT to mount the blue plate.  I have since removed it and use the other side of the MFT top. But it did work good.
https://www.amazon.com/KKS1110-Auto...ie=UTF8&qid=1501389709&sr=8-149&keywords=kreg

 

[LDBecker]

Couple weeks late... I ended up buying the Kreg clamp table TOP and just clamp it to the MFT when I want to build faceframes with Pocket screws. When I don't need it, it stores easily. It is QUITE heavy, and does a good job of holding things square for clamping. I tried just using Dominoes for fracecframes, but you have to leave them clamped while the glue dries- not always convenient.

 

[7sec153]

Hope this helps

 

[live4ever]

[member=33109]7sec153[/member]

Are the dados in the back of your face frame for accepting dominos for alignment? 

 

[7sec153]

They are for the cabinet sides, top and bottoms.  I used a tongue and groove bit

Using the table like this turned out tight, perfect face frames and was quick.

 

[tjbnwi]

Take your Domino, put the 8mm bit in it, stand it up at the edge of a hole, plunge so you get about a 3/8" slot that intersects the hole, replace the 5/16 bolt in the Kreg table clamp, install 1.5" long carriage bolt, insert head in hole, slide bolt into the slot, clamp.

Tom

 

[eddomak]

Hey guys. I have contemplated purchasing the Kreg Klamp Table primarily for assembling face frames secured with pocket screws. Before doing that i would like to know what sort of ideas folks have come up with by using the MFT3 for the same purpose.

As mentioned, you can use various dogs to get your pieces aligned or perpendicular, and as Jobsworth mentioned, the Kreg Bench Clamp can be used by routing the plate into the surface of the table. (I really love the automaxx system for automatically adjusting to different thickness materials).

I don't think anyone has mentioned so far in this thread that you can use the Automaxx bench clamp through any of the holes in the MFT. There is a demo video below from erock, but rather than use a washer I put the threaded rod through a an upside down (so that the surface is flush with the tabletop) precision dog that has a hole through it, and tighten the knob from below. If you have a choice, maybe go for the 6" clamp to give you more reach both in material thickness and in distance from the base.