In a "pinch" double door cabinet issue

[Ivanhoe]

My play on words in the subject line is the issue - Rookie mistake, as I made the doors too wide. I forgot to deduct the 1/8" or so for the middle gap so now my doors are too tight. I was consistent, as the other side of the entertainment cabinet was off as well!  Hinges are at max adjustment and now I must seek another solution to open the gap. Hinges are Blum 71B358E 110 degree on clip top face frame adapter plates. I assume mortising/chiseling out approx 1/16" from the face frames where the adapter plates mate would be the easiest option to rectify my problem.  Any other options seem like a lot more work as in, planing or cutting the doors and repainting...Any ideas appreciated!

Rod

 

[bkharman]

My play on words in the subject line is the issue - Rookie mistake, as I made the doors too wide. I forgot to deduct the 1/8" or so for the middle gap so now my doors are too tight. I was consistent, as the other side of the entertainment cabinet was off as well!  Hinges are at max adjustment and now I must seek another solution to open the gap. Hinges are Blum 71B358E 110 degree on clip top face frame adapter plates. I assume mortising/chiseling out approx 1/16" from the face frames where the adapter plates mate would be the easiest option to rectify my problem.  Any other options seem like a lot more work as in, planing or cutting the doors and repainting...Any ideas appreciated!

Rod

We have all been there Rod...

I would vote for a larger Blum hinge.  You didnt say what overlay version you have but according to your part number it is a full (or 1").  I would get a larger one (maybe 1-1/8")to get the gap you need.  It might not be your cheapest option but it would be the easiest and no paint or trim needed.

If that isn't an option for you... I would trim down the face frame as it would be less obvious.

cheers.  Bryan.

 

[Billedis]

I would opt for the larger overlay hinge!  Nice looking cabinet!  Bill

 

[Ivanhoe]

Thanks Bryan - it is indeed a "full" overlay but for some reason I thought I was working with a 1/2" overlay. I purchased these to match what I already have in the house which my builder recommended. For learning purposes, is a "Full" overlay a generic term or another way of saying a 1?" I have been trying to get that info out of Blum's site, but haven't found where they keep that info.

thanks also for your kind comment Bill - I am not overly happy with it as I made a post install change to the cabinet. Original design had full length doors but then I decided I wanted more airflow to the receiver, Sat box, and router, so I added the rail and re-did the doors. I think I still need to dress up the opening with some trim. I also wasn't on the same page with my builder as he used a taller baseboard than I would have liked so my reveal is only about 1/8" between the door bottom and the top of the baseboard.

 

[bkharman]

Thanks Bryan - it is indeed a "full" overlay but for some reason I thought I was working with a 1/2" overlay. I purchased these to match what I already have in the house which my builder recommended. For learning purposes, is a "Full" overlay a generic term or another way of saying a 1?"

Yes.  I am not sure of the root of it but I have always seen "full" meaning 1".  I buy my hardware from CSHardware (http://www.cshardware.com/) and they have a great selection and ship quickly.

I took a look around for 1-1/8" but only saw 1-1/4".  Based on your pic, that might be fine in between.  I assume when you open the cabinet doors, it is one big space, no divider between the doors correct?  If so, you might need to add backstop on one door to block the space and look like a face frame divider.

Cheers.  Bryan.

 

[Ivanhoe]

You are correct Bryan  - one large open space which is what I wanted. I didn't want a stile there. Is the blocking to the door for esthetics only or something else?

I will have to ck out the 1 1/4" overlay hinges. I purchased thru build.com and they were amazingly fast (must be based in CA as I think it came overnight)

 

[Sparktrician]

Hey, Rod,
    You might take the doors off, remove the hinges and knobs, then clamp them down to your MFT (or worktable) with the conflicting edges over the table edge.  Then set your tracksaw to a 3° bevel.  Set the splinterguard on the track just a hair over the edge, clamp down the track, then run the saw along the conflicting edge.  This will take off enough to stop the pinching without it being seen when the doors are closed.  Yes, you'll have to refinish the doors before final reassembly.  I'd suggest a test refit, just to make sure you nailed it before refinishing.  If it's still too snug, set the tracksaw back to 0° and just shave a whisker's width off the conflicting edge of each door until you dial it in.  Once it's been refinished, you'll never see the cut area.  Just a thought... 

 

[sancho57]

I agree with the others. I'm not familiar with all th Blum hinges but the ones I use all you would have to do is swap the base plates from a full to a 1 1/8 overlay then adj.
Should only take ya a few minutes.

But you can does look nice.

Nice build

 

[tjbnwi]

1-1/4" overlay face frame hinge.

Overlay simple defines how much of the door covers the face frame.

Tom

 

[Ivanhoe]

Thanks for the additional tips guys! I think the only way to get to the 1 1/4" overlay is to go with a completely different style like the compact version that Tom posted. I had hoped to find one in the same style as the ones I have.

 

[morts10n]

If  you used a clip hinge for full overlay with a 0 mm face frame adaptor plate, how much is the door overlaying the stile? Should be about 5/8" to 11/16"
If you used a 3mm plate you can swap that one for 0mm and that will pull the doors apart at the center. If you used 6mm plate you can swap that plate for a 3mm plate and also get a bigger gap between doors.  Now.. if you did indeed use a 0mm plate,and 110 degree hinge, try swapping it for a 110+(plus) hinge and you will also be able to squeeze out a bit more gap between doors.
Good luck,
Dave  davebasch@msn.com

 

[#Tee]

hmm trim materials off one face frame side..couple mm is all you need. saves you time without buying any new material and basically unseen.

 

[Kevin McConville]

Take it off the face frame

Been there myself

 

[morts10n]

Hey "Wouldn't it...."

A  $.75 plate would have accomplished the same thing and then it would look like you knew what you were doing!!
Blum makes:  variable overlay, 1-3/8", 1-1/4", 1", 3/4", 1/2" plates for that hinge.

 

[morts10n]

See a collection of plates for that hinge here:  http://www.hardwaresource.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=4260

 

[Ivanhoe]

If  you used a clip hinge for full overlay with a 0 mm face frame adaptor plate, how much is the door overlaying the stile? Should be about 5/8" to 11/16"
If you used a 3mm plate you can swap that one for 0mm and that will pull the doors apart at the center. If you used 6mm plate you can swap that plate for a 3mm plate and also get a bigger gap between doors.  Now.. if you did indeed use a 0mm plate,and 110 degree hinge, try swapping it for a 110+(plus) hinge and you will also be able to squeeze out a bit more gap between doors.
Good luck,
Dave  davebasch@msn.com

Hey Dave- I used a 3mm base plate Blum B175h6030.  With doors extended as far apart as possible gives me about 9/16" overlay. That would be fantastic to solve the issue with a 0mm plate!

 

[Kevin McConville]

Morts - Thx for the feedback but I really wasn't looking for your opinion whether you thought I knew what I was doing or not.

 

[morts10n]

Hey Rod,

They do indeed make the same plate in 0mm so I think you have a solution!

"Wouldn't it be..." .... Just throwing hardware info out there.. "one doesn't know until one knows". It's nice to know when there are easy solutions to otherwise  "oh sh*t!"  moments.  Love the lacewood panels in mahogany? frames! I've done that as well
Cheers

 

[morts10n]

I think it's this one:  BH175H6000 (and uses flat head screws normally.)

 

[Ivanhoe]

Ya that's what I am ordering here shortly. I see you noticed my choice of screws! Lol it's what I had in the house and I was too lazy/tired to run back out to the shop to get the proper ones.