New to Euro cabinet building

[Packard]

I have made plenty of face frame cabinets, but I am now trying my hand at vanity and a wall cabinet using Euro construction.  I have a few questions.

The big question is regarding overlay doors and inset doors.  It would seem to me that overlay doors have to be hung with nearly the same precision as inset doors when there is no face frame.  I do like the look of inset doors so I am leaning that way.  Any suggestions?  Comments?

The second question relates to crown molding on wall cabinets.  How is the best way to do this?  Make a crosspiece at the top like a wide face frame?  Assemble the crown molding onto a frame that attaches to the top of the cabinet?

Also, If you are making a base cabinet, with a counter mounted atop, do you carry the full overlay all the way to the top?  I think I should leave at least 1/4" or 3/8" exposure at the top, and 1/4" between doors where they meet in the middle. 

Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

Note:  I will be using Blum adjustable hinges (dowel type).  I have a Blum drilling jig for the hinges. 

Do you use the same holes for the shelves for the hinges too?  Or do you drill holes just for the hinges?

 

[guybo]

Hi when I find time this is how I'm leaning and think these look best for euro cabs Buy or make one of theses for inset doors. guyhttps://www.rockler.com/jig-it-hinge-plate-template-for-inset-door-hinges

 

[Lincoln]

Margin between top of door and countertop should be 2 - 3mm (1/8)

Usually you create the inset look, by applying panels to the outside of your cabinet. This way you cover screws etc that were used to build the case. So you use a full overlay door, with 2mm gaps down each side and between the doors, then 'end panels' are applied to exposed ends. When finished you should have 2mm margins between doors and between doors and any end panels.

We don't do a lot of US style crown molding down here, but I would run the sides of the overhead cabinet past the top of the cabinet and fix a rail in between them. Once your cabinets are installed, apply a piece of your finish material across, again leaving a 2mm gap between the top of the doors and this finish piece. (The face of the finish rail will be flush with the face of the doors) Then you have something to attach your crown to. I'd leave some of the finished rail exposed, maybe 20mm, to give a bit of wriggle room for the crown and to match the thickness of your end panels. So when finished, you see the door, a 20mm strip in the same material, then the crown.

All end panel edges are flush with the face of doors/drawer fronts.

I like to drill a series of holes - usually 7 -  for shelves, then drill the hinge plate holes. Looks more custom than having holes going from top to bottom.

 

[Packard]

I have the CTM drilling jig for shelves.  It has instructions for drilling for the hinges.  I will have to read the instructions again to see what is involved.

I have this Blum jig for drilling hinges.  It is nearly fool-proof.  The drill bits are included.  It can mark for screws or drill for Blum's dowel fasteners.  It clamps on and is easy to use.

 

[Rick Herrick]

I have this Blum jig for drilling hinges.  It is nearly fool-proof.  The drill bits are included.  It can mark for screws or drill for Blum's dowel fasteners.  It clamps on and is easy to use.

Did you get the Blum jig or the Rockler version, or another?  I just got the Rockler one but waiting on my slides to be delivered.

 

[Peter Kelly]

The big question is regarding overlay doors and inset doors.  It would seem to me that overlay doors have to be hung with nearly the same precision as inset doors when there is no face frame.  I do like the look of inset doors so I am leaning that way.  Any suggestions?  Comments?

If you're doing inset doors on a frameless box, the top and deck should be mounted by 25mm behind the front-facing edges of the left and right sides. This way, the door bumpers land on both when they shut and you only need to worry about aligning the vertical gaps.

The second question relates to crown molding on wall cabinets.  How is the best way to do this?  Make a crosspiece at the top like a wide face frame?  Assemble the crown molding onto a frame that attaches to the top of the cabinet?

Extend the left / right sides of the box(es) up from where the top should be, add blocking in between to fasten crown.

Also, If you are making a base cabinet, with a counter mounted atop, do you carry the full overlay all the way to the top?  I think I should leave at least 1/4" or 3/8" exposure at the top, and 1/4" between doors where they meet in the middle.

10mm / .375" gap from the top of the door to the underside of the counter is pretty typical. Also, mount the front rail vertically so you don't see the underside of the sink when you open the doors.

Do you use the same holes for the shelves for the hinges too?  Or do you drill holes just for the hinges?

Same row of 5mm holes 37mm from leading edge on full overlay for drawer runners, shelf pins, hinge base plates, etc.

Blum's manual for building frameless boxes is invaluable if you're new to this type of construction:https://woodweb.com/knowledge_base_images/ms/Process32_041204.pdf