INOX steel cutting???

[brussveins]

Hi FOG MEMBERS

I need litlle  help.  The fact is that I have a door glued on both sides with 0.6 mm thick metal. Total door thickness 40mm.
Has anyone tried to saw INOX steel with FESTOOL TS 55 saw?
Or maybe someone has information,what type of metal it is possible to cut?
Including what types of INOX???

 

[peter halle]

In case members are not familiar with the term inox steel, it is also called stainless steel.

Peter

 

[brussveins]

Thank you PETER for comment.
And sorry for disposing text. [blink]

 

[Deansocial]

i would sa a fine triplechip blade and cut the inox each side first the use a regular blade to cut the door core

 

[Brice Burrell]

i would sa a fine triplechip blade and cut the inox each side first the use a regular blade to cut the door core

I think the Festool aluminum blade would work.  I'd recommend it over the laminate blade that is also a triple chip blade because the aluminum blade has a negative rake.  The negative rake ideal for metal.  I'd try to make the cut in one pass if possible and I wouldn't bother switching blades since the aluminum blade will likely cut the wood well enough.

 

[Mark]

I've been wanting to do this for a countertop but assumed I'd have to get this CNC'd.

1. What kind of glue did you use to adhere the INOX to the door?
2. What speed did you use while cutting and was there any burning when you did the cut
3. Think a TS55 could pull this off?

Mahalo!

 

[MarkusS]

I had to cut four doors which had a thickness of about 30 mm hard wood covered with about 0.5 mm sheet metal around. The metal is magnetic and it showed some rust where the color coat was damaged, so no INOX / stainless steel. I used the Festool 496306 aluminium blade with my TS55 and it worked quite well, although there were some sparks. After four cuts each about 80 cm long through two layers of sheet metal and hard wood the blade looks still like new.

I don't know if this applies to INOX as well.

Wear eye protection!

 

[Brice Burrell]

I had to cut four doors which had a thickness of about 30 mm hard wood covered with about 0.5 mm sheet metal around. The metal is magnetic and it showed some rust where the color coat was damaged, so no INOX / stainless steel. I used the Festool 496306 aluminium blade with my TS55 and it worked quite well, although there were some sparks. After four cuts each about 80 cm long through two layers of sheet metal and hard wood the blade looks still like new.

I don't know if this applies to INOX as well.

Wear eye protection!

Thanks for bringing up these two things. [thumbs up]  All the heat from cutting metal means do not use the vac and wear your glasses! 

 

[Ken Nagrod]

I had to cut four doors which had a thickness of about 30 mm hard wood covered with about 0.5 mm sheet metal around. The metal is magnetic and it showed some rust where the color coat was damaged, so no INOX / stainless steel. I used the Festool 496306 aluminium blade with my TS55 and it worked quite well, although there were some sparks. After four cuts each about 80 cm long through two layers of sheet metal and hard wood the blade looks still like new.

I don't know if this applies to INOX as well.

Wear eye protection!

Markus,

The better quality stainless steels are non-magnetic and non-rusting (the color you usually associate with rust), however there are lower grades of stainless steel with a carbon content high enough to rust and be magnetic.  FYI, stainless steel does oxidize (rust) but it's clear and takes many years - has to do with the chromium reacting with the oxygen in the air.

 

[Deansocial]

i would sa a fine triplechip blade and cut the inox each side first the use a regular blade to cut the door core

I think the Festool aluminum blade would work.  I'd recommend it over the laminate blade that is also a triple chip blade because the aluminum blade has a negative rake.  The negative rake ideal for metal.  I'd try to make the cut in one pass if possible and I wouldn't bother switching blades since the aluminum blade will likely cut the wood well enough.

the alminium blade i have dont like cutting wood especially along the grain, Way too fine and wrong tooth design. Now if the core is chip board then it would work fine

 

[Michael Kellough]

Another option, if you don't want to risk a Fine tooth Festool blade or spring for the Festool aluminum blade, get a cheap Panasonic cordless metal cutting blade.

Not sure about the 6"+ blade but the smaller ones do have 20mm holes.
They're made for cutting thin steel. You'd have to cut the steel from both sides and get creative with the ends is the metal wraps around. Also, they have narrow kerfs so you might have to make two parallel passes to clear a furrow for the Fine tooth blade to follow.

Even thought the Panasonic blade is thin it's the tooth/disk offset that determines whether the tooth cuts the rubber splinter guard so I can't predict that.

 

[brussveins]

Thank you all for your replies. [smile]
1.Mark Enomoto I use "BISON KIT contact adhesive" glue.
2.I have not yet begun to saw, learned all the information.
3.I'm not sure,therefore also asked (about TS 55saw).Our dealer said that the TS 75 may amount to.
Unfortunately, only I do not have TS 75.

 

[Brice Burrell]

Thank you all for your replies. [smile]
1.Mark Enomoto I use "BISON KIT contact adhesive" glue.
2.I have not yet begun to saw, learned all the information.
3.I'm not sure,therefore also asked (about TS 55saw).Our dealer said that the TS 75 may amount to.
Unfortunately, only I do not have TS 75.

I agree with your dealer that the TS75 would probably be better suited for this job, but I think the TS55 with the correct blade will also work.