Installed Leviton HomeKit smart switch in garage for workshop

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Mar 18, 2007
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In the process of turning part of our 3-car garage into a workshop; one little bit I’ve completed is to re-do the drywall on a post that supports the garage roof. It had a switch and outlet on the post. I re-did the drywall (thanks, ETS EC 125/150!), painted it, and now have installed a 2-inch deep 2-gang outlet box on the post. Today I added back an outlet, and replaced the old switch with a Leviton HomeKit smart switch that works with the Apple/Siri/HomePod environment.
I’m going to add a remote smart switch so I can control the main garage lights from the door out to the garage from the laundry room. That way all the garage lighting can be controlled from that door manually, or voice-controlled, in addition to manual switching at the post.
I’m very pleased with how well it works.
I was going to use Lutron Caséta switches, but prefer the “normal” look of the Leviton Decora switches.
It looks like this system is going to work well enough I will want remote voice-controlled switches for the main rooms and outside lights as well.
You can control by room, by zone, or by specific switch.
 
I just finished building a home and went with Caseta on a lot of switches.  I really like it and the many options for smartphone integration, Alexa control, ‘pico’ remotes, etc.  Years ago, I started with X-10, then Insteon.  This new stuff from Caseta is light years ahead in flexibility and simplicity!

Good luck with your project!  The smart components are like ‘crack’ particularly with voice control!
 
Stan, Don’t forget not to exceed the Casetta’s power limitation, it’s fairly low. I don’t know the failure mode if you exceed that rating... eventual component failure, overheating or fire. It will switch more that that power level (at least for a limited time). I had to install an inexpensive, pre-wired relay to avoid that problem with my shop lights. If memory serves me, I think the Casetta switch has 600 watts or 5 Amp max depending on type of lighting. Plus you may need to derate the 5A for the light fixtures’ power supply efficiency. All together not much power. I used a RIB, Functional Devices 20A relay, from Amazon, using the 120V option for switching the relay. It works reliably. My lighting circuit is 20A. 15A would be more typical, RIB makes a 15A version.
 
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