I install engineered wood in motorcoaches. I have a Dewalt jigsaw and have taken an interest in the Trion with the D grip handle. I have been having issues where the top layer of wood will have very small splinters. I have tried all kinds of blades, going very slow with the tool. My question is: will this tool and the correct blade take care of the splintering problems? I am trying to research this and if this tool will do the trick, I'm all for it. What blade is best? Thanks, Ernie Ekberg
Installing engineered wood
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jmbfestool
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erniee said:
Have you tried a downward cutting jigsaw blade?
Jmb
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Ernie,
Welcome to the forum!
I have no doubt that the Trion will solve your problem. Our jigsaw incorporate a plastic splinterguard which prevents splintering and chip out. I would probably recommend this fine tooth blade for the best results.
http://www.festoolusa.com/products/jigsaws/jigsaw-blades/jigsaw-blade-s-5014k-5x-486564.html
Welcome to the forum!
I have no doubt that the Trion will solve your problem. Our jigsaw incorporate a plastic splinterguard which prevents splintering and chip out. I would probably recommend this fine tooth blade for the best results.
http://www.festoolusa.com/products/jigsaws/jigsaw-blades/jigsaw-blade-s-5014k-5x-486564.html
Thanks Shane, this is the information I was looking for. I have many rounded corners in these coaches to cut to and while I have been doing a good job, I want to do a great job. Some of these coaches are in the million dollar range, and I want to do them a job that warrants that.
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Ernie,
Glad to help. I should have included this video in my original response. This explains the splinterguard and demonstrates the difference it makes.
Also, you have a 30-day money-back guarantee to try it. If you don't like it, just return it.
Using the splinterguard for the Festool PS300 jigsaw
Glad to help. I should have included this video in my original response. This explains the splinterguard and demonstrates the difference it makes.
Also, you have a 30-day money-back guarantee to try it. If you don't like it, just return it.
Using the splinterguard for the Festool PS300 jigsaw
jmbfestool
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erniee said:
I cant as I don't use festool blades as Bosch and other brands do good blades for less. When I'm cuttin material which has to be cut with a jig saw and needs to be splinter free I use a downward cutting blade.
You will have to make sure to hold your jigsaw well and your material is held well as a downward blade can kick your jigsaw up but like I said it's fine if you have a good hold. Instead if you get the barrel grip festool (normal D handle will do) which are easy to hold upside down you can jigsaw from below which stops splintering also easy to see your line to fallow. Festool blades are nothing special compared to other brands! Most festool accessories are not even made my festool.
So try the blades first and if you don't like then buy a festool jigsaw. Just trying to save you money!
Jmb
Jmb
Holzhacker
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A good jigsaw, the right blade and a splinter guard are all necessary. Whether you use a Trion or Bosch is irrelevant. Technique and stability have more to do with getting good splinter free cuts. However it is important to remember that you are dealing with laminate, there are no guarantees. Sometimes that stuff chips no matter what you do. Clamping material and keeping the jigsaw firmly planted on the wood are important. In thin material I use a nice finish blade. For thicker material I use a downstroke blade or cut from the back side. If you aren't used to a downstroke blade I suggest you practice a bit first. On laminate the kickback probably won't be severe, on other stuff like 1x+ that baby will really kickback.
I really like my Trion. Balance, feel and stability are all great. It works especially well for fine cutting and scrolling odd cuts, better than the Bosch. However the sightline is far worse than the Bosch. Visuals on the Trion blade are poor to start, add the splinter or dust guard and you can't see squat.
If it were me right now, I would wait for the Carvex. If I needed another jigsaw and the Carvex weren't coming out I would buy another Trion.
Hope that helps.
I really like my Trion. Balance, feel and stability are all great. It works especially well for fine cutting and scrolling odd cuts, better than the Bosch. However the sightline is far worse than the Bosch. Visuals on the Trion blade are poor to start, add the splinter or dust guard and you can't see squat.
If it were me right now, I would wait for the Carvex. If I needed another jigsaw and the Carvex weren't coming out I would buy another Trion.
Hope that helps.
Aaron Underdahl
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I own the PS 300, but find using the splinter guard difficult to see the cut line sometimes.
You can also try to cut the flooring from the underside. This is the same idea of the downward blade but easier to control. I use this technique when I install engineered flooring. Its cheaper then a new saw or new blades.
You can also try to cut the flooring from the underside. This is the same idea of the downward blade but easier to control. I use this technique when I install engineered flooring. Its cheaper then a new saw or new blades.
jmbfestool
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So +1 +1 from Aaron and Holzhacker to what I said [tongue]
what i did forget to mention what was mentioned is that splinter guards are rubbish to see were your cutting
JMB
what i did forget to mention what was mentioned is that splinter guards are rubbish to see were your cutting
JMB
mastercabman
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Down cut blades are ok,But remember to turn the orbital switch to OFF,if not,you are going to get some kick and the cut is slower.
Try to cut upside down if you can.That might be all you need.
I do have the Trion jgsaw and i must say that it does a very good job on keeping the blade straight,but if you are cutting material that is thicker than what the blade is designed for,the blade can bend and give you a not so straight of a cut.
Try to cut upside down if you can.That might be all you need.
I do have the Trion jgsaw and i must say that it does a very good job on keeping the blade straight,but if you are cutting material that is thicker than what the blade is designed for,the blade can bend and give you a not so straight of a cut.
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The Carvex will have improved visibility, as well as many other features that will completely redefine the term jigsaw. It's not going to be available until June. Even then, the splinterguard is going to cover the cut line, albeit clear. The splinterguard offers zero clearance for the blade and the compromise of visibility. I'd encourage you to head to your closest Festool dealer and check out the Trion. If you don't think it's satisfactory, dealers should see demo units of the Carvex in May.
The clear plastic dust shroud can be moved up and down on the front of the Carvex, unlike on the Trion, to improve cut
Carvex:
Trion:
The dust shroud and splinterguard are optional on both models and can be easily removed. There is a "pointer" on the splinterguard to help guide your cut.
The clear plastic dust shroud can be moved up and down on the front of the Carvex, unlike on the Trion, to improve cut
Carvex:
Trion:
The dust shroud and splinterguard are optional on both models and can be easily removed. There is a "pointer" on the splinterguard to help guide your cut.
Holzhacker
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Ernie want to really spend a couple bucks? Buy the Trion a short guide rail and the baseplate for the Trion to slide on the guiderail. You won't have to worry about seeing the line. [big grin] While your at it pick up an MFT3 to clamp everything down on.
Are you making straight cuts or scroll cuts?
Are you making straight cuts or scroll cuts?
Guy Ashley
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Just a heads up for you in NAINA land awaiting the arrival of the Carvex.
I have owned both the PS300 Trion and now have the PS400 Carvex. IT IS WORTH THE WAIT!!!!
Ebay UK is now awash with PS300's everyone is dumping them in favour of the Carvex. Hang in there!!
It cant be stressed enough that if you dont use a blade that is long enough to still be greater than the thickness of your material on the upstroke it is going to wander and make a mess, even if attached to a guide rail. (Even with a Festool!)
I have owned both the PS300 Trion and now have the PS400 Carvex. IT IS WORTH THE WAIT!!!!
Ebay UK is now awash with PS300's everyone is dumping them in favour of the Carvex. Hang in there!!
It cant be stressed enough that if you dont use a blade that is long enough to still be greater than the thickness of your material on the upstroke it is going to wander and make a mess, even if attached to a guide rail. (Even with a Festool!)
There is a local Woodcrafters in Ft Worth. I'll go check the Trion out first hand. I'll bring a piece of material with me.
Thanks for all the tips. Most of my work goes up against some nice curved cabinetry. Not very many straight lines, unfortunately. But I like the idea of having the guiderail.
Thanks for all the tips. Most of my work goes up against some nice curved cabinetry. Not very many straight lines, unfortunately. But I like the idea of having the guiderail.
Guy Ashley
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Erniee
I am 70% workshop, 30% residential fit so my vote is the corded. I would suspect that guys who are predominately on site would vote for battery.
When you go and check out the PS300 see if it can do this
Festool Holzhandwerk 2010
I wouldnt waste your petrol!! [big grin]
I am 70% workshop, 30% residential fit so my vote is the corded. I would suspect that guys who are predominately on site would vote for battery.
When you go and check out the PS300 see if it can do this
Festool Holzhandwerk 2010
I wouldnt waste your petrol!! [big grin]
jmbfestool
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erniee said:
I own the battery Carvex Barrel grip and it feels like your using a corded version. Also Carvex will work with a 14.4 battery and 18V battery the power stays the same but the jigsaw will cut for longer with the 18V. Well I cant tell the difference between the 14.4v and 18v and I kept on swapping mine around to see if I could tell a difference in power and I cant.
I would wait for the Carvex if you really want a festool Drill as you have no problems seeing the blade. I never use the splinter guard I hate them they get in the way I just use my jig saw from behind the material or reverse blade like I said before.
If your Dewalt is working fine and your happy with it. I would stick with that for now try the blade and reverse trick.
@ Holzhacker
Using it on a rail would be time waisting as he would have to work out the offset of the blade and add it the the measurement every time. I think it would be a waist of money as I cant see any point in using a jigsaw on a rail. If he is happy using a jigsaw he clearly ain't bothered about a dead straight cuts any way cus he would be using a circular saw right?!?!? I am assuming hes using the jigsaw to scribe/curve the engineered wood (sheets/ floor boards) to something on the coach . I would say go for the TS55 for sheets or if its narrow strips (floor boards?) a chop saw for straight cuts not a jigsaw with rail.
JMB
