Is Flash Curing a thing?

[Scorpion]

Today I was spraying top coat on a face frame I made for a built-in.  The built-in will be located in bathroom so I was laying about 6 coats of a water based General finishes product (first time using it in particular).  When I started starting the entire frame was in the shade.  It did not catch my attention that around coat 2 the bottom 20% of the frame was in direct sunlight.  The heat of the day was allowing quick coats.  Somewhere between 2 and 5 I must have laid a coat down too back to back and managed to overlay a spot that hadn't completely dried yet.  The result at coat 6 was a weird looking ghost spot that looks lighter than the rest.  My guess is that laying a coat over a wet spot, combined with the heat and direct sunlight, caused the surface to dry before the previous coat - Flash Curing?

The end of the story - I tried steel wool in hopes that as I scuffed it the moisture would release solving the discoloration.  Sadly it didn't work so I ended up sanding it with 220 and the RO90 which removed quite a bit of material.  When I shot it again the ghost came back on the second and final coat.  Now I'm thinking I need to either take it all the way back down and start over with stain or live with it.

Ideas?

 

[Scott B.]

That's an unfortunate situation.

The moral of the story is: don't spray outside, no matter how cool the Wood Whisperer makes it look.

It's an uncontrolled environment for spraying. You could probably do in 3 coats inside what takes 6 outside due to transfer inefficiency in the uncontrolled environment. Variable surface temperatures is just too risky.

Also, avoid steel wool on waterborne product. Rust never sleeps.

 

[Scorpion]

That's an unfortunate situation.

The moral of the story is: don't spray outside, no matter how cool the Wood Whisperer makes it look.

It's an uncontrolled environment for spraying. You could probably do in 3 coats inside what takes 6 outside due to transfer inefficiency in the uncontrolled environment. Variable surface temperatures is just too risky.

Also, avoid steel wool on waterborne product. Rust never sleeps.

I've had incredible results spraying outside but this was the first time spraying water based and the first time I ended up in direct sunlight.  Live and learn I guess.

Didn't actually use steel wool but good reminder.  I use those abrasive sheets and the finer ones are colored like steel wool so that's what I call it.

 

[sancho57]

When I was in the states I used GF finishes extensively. I used Enduro when it was Enduro before GF bought the Enduro company.

I don't recall that happening to me before. But then I never had to use that many coats. Usually with a W/B finish 3 coats is all I ever used. Sometimes I didn't use a sealer and used the base coat as a sealer coat. The 2nd coat would be a build coat and 3rd the finish coat.

I've sprayed out side on a concrete patio in the summer in So Ca. The temp was usually in the 80s maybe more if you count the heat coming off the concrete.
u
Water base typically don't need more then 3 coats. The W/B  is actually a more durable finish then the old O/B finishes as it has more solids to help with the emulsifying the solvents with the water.

Anyway, this is long winded and not answering your question. But I hope this helps

 

[tiralie]

Somewhere between 2 and 5 I must have laid a coat down too back to back and managed to overlay a spot that hadn't completely dried yet.  The result at coat 6 was a weird looking ghost spot that looks lighter than the rest.  My guess is that laying a coat over a wet spot, combined with the heat and direct sunlight, caused the surface to dry before the previous coat - Flash Curing?

Now I'm thinking I need to either take it all the way back down and start over with stain or live with it.

Without a picture, it would be hard to tell what the issue is, but I suspect (as you have noted) you have trapped moisture between coats. This is often called blushing (hazing or clouding).
Time of day is also critical as it may have cooled in the late afternoon and any moisture in the air condensed on the warm boards.

If you can wait for a couple days it may go away.
Unless you are planning on buffing your finish (piano finish) for a high gloss, six coats are not required.

 

[Scott B.]

six coats are not required.
[/quote]

Depends on the wind. Doesn't take much.

 

[downtheroad]

There are aerosol products that are basically very strong solvents that can "open up" the finish and allow the trapped moisture to get out. As a touchup and service shop, we do a lot of onsite work for the furniture industry. We have used these products to remove/minimize  marks from blushing, heat/cold , and packing in cured film finishes and it may help you in these situations. It doesn't always work, but at times, we are amazed at some of the damage that they are able to remedy.

You should spray a very light coat on the damaged area with good ventilation. These are nasty solvents and a too wet coat can melt in and mar the area. Let dry several minutes and if it looks like it is gone or improving, great! You can repeat if necessary. Let cure well. Topcoating may be needed to blend.

We use products from Mohawk or Konig

Interestingly, Charles Neil just posted a video on a method using denatured alcohol and a lighter.  [eek]
Removing White Rings

 

[tiralie]

six coats are not required.

Depends on the wind. Doesn't take much.
[/quote]

LOL, ya I need six coats on a sail boat.

 

[tiralie]

We use products from Mohawk or Konig

Thanks, video was great. Just ordered some Mohawk super blush for my next screw up....
Tim

 

[sancho57]

There are aerosol products that are basically very strong solvents that can "open up" the finish and allow the trapped moisture to get out. As a touchup and service shop, we do a lot of onsite work for the furniture industry. We have used these products to remove/minimize  marks from blushing, heat/cold , and packing in cured film finishes and it may help you in these situations. It doesn't always work, but at times, we are amazed at some of the damage that they are able to remedy.

You should spray a very light coat on the damaged area with good ventilation. These are nasty solvents and a too wet coat can melt in and mar the area. Let dry several minutes and if it looks like it is gone or improving, great! You can repeat if necessary. Let cure well. Topcoating may be needed to blend.

We use products from Mohawk or Konig

Interestingly, Charles Neil just posted a video on a method using denatured alcohol and a lighter.  [eek]
Removing White Rings

Was that the store in Orange ? I like that store lots good stuff there

 

[Scott B.]

The little known Hibachi Finishing technique...be safe out there, folks.

 

[Scott B.]

That is just wrong on so many levels. No gloves, no respirator. And I couldn't help but notice that he has no remaining eye lashes.

[scared]

 

[mastercabman]

There are aerosol products that are basically very strong solvents that can "open up" the finish and allow the trapped moisture to get out. As a touchup and service shop, we do a lot of onsite work for the furniture industry. We have used these products to remove/minimize  marks from blushing, heat/cold , and packing in cured film finishes and it may help you in these situations. It doesn't always work, but at times, we are amazed at some of the damage that they are able to remedy.

You should spray a very light coat on the damaged area with good ventilation. These are nasty solvents and a too wet coat can melt in and mar the area. Let dry several minutes and if it looks like it is gone or improving, great! You can repeat if necessary. Let cure well. Topcoating may be needed to blend.

We use products from Mohawk or Konig

Interestingly, Charles Neil just posted a video on a method using denatured alcohol and a lighter.  [eek]
Removing White Rings

I also use Mohawk product for onsite repairs
The OP stated that he used a waterborne product
The blush Mohawk spray can( witch I keep in the van)can it be use on waterborne product?

 

[mastercabman]

That is just wrong on so many levels. No gloves, no respirator. And I couldn't help but notice that he has no remaining eye lashes.

[scared]

And I can still see a ring!

 

[downtheroad]

Was that the store in Orange ? I like that store lots good stuff there

Yes, we get the Mohawk products from Wood Repair Products in Orange. Konig products from Konig North America in Philadelphia.

Did you get Enduro from Drew at Austin Hardwoods or from Jeff at Compliant Spray Systems (manufacturer) in San Clemente?

Mark, the guy I work with taught the waterbase finishing seminars for them before they sold to General Finishes.

Mark got into waterbase back in the 80's when using them was still a mystery and the few available products were not that good. He learned a lot and Enduro was the first product he used that satisfied him as a furniture quality finish.

I also use Mohawk product for onsite repairs
The OP stated that he used a waterborne product
The blush Mohawk spray can( witch I keep in the van)can it be use on waterborne product?
[/quote]

Yes, we've had success on waterborne.

That is just wrong on so many levels. No gloves, no respirator. And I couldn't help but notice that he has no remaining eye lashes.

[scared]

And I can still see a ring!

As was said in the video and as I said above, more than one application may be necessary.

Today, I was french polishing a Caribbean mahogany tabletop. Using shellac flakes and  alcohol. If I could get it, 190+ proof ethanol would be great. But, denatured is all that is available here. I have been french polishing musical instruments and furniture for almost 40 yrs. When french polishing, I've never used a respirator but did try gloves briefly. The gloves didn't allow me to feel how my pad was progressing. Also, as a guitarist that uses my fingernails, they would quickly puncture the gloves making them useless.

 

[sancho57]

Wood repair products is awesome, I bought my first Enduro from Jeff at a wood show at the CM fair grounds. I also bought a accuspray gun at the same time. Awesome combo.

I never got around to taking Marks class I kept putting it off.

Tell Drew ,
Ron in England says Hi. I used to stop in there quite often and buy my ply and hardware and on Fridays eat my popcorn ....

They don't have anything like here.  To bad it would go over big here. I miss the place.