Is It Just Me? Or Does Double-Sided Tape Suck?

[onocoffee]

I keep going back to trying using templates that I've created for parts and using double-sided tape to secure the 1/4" MDF to the workpiece and using a flush trim router bit to shape the piece. However, invariably the tape fails to hold and the template becomes loose. I've used Spectape and the Avery Dennison Woodworking tape and it all just seems to suck.

Am I doing something wrong?

Months ago, all I had was a roll of Scotch Mount Extreme that I got from the Home Depot. It's super thick (like 1/8") and really put a gap between the workpiece and the template - but it was all I had. It worked fairly well and would sometimes release, but certainly seemed to hold better than these thinner "proper" woodworking tapes.

I'm using a 2" Whiteside flush trim bit in a Milwaukee 5625 mounted in a Woodpeckers VRL-P2 lift in an Incra table. The workpiece is black walnut 33mm thick. I probably could rough cut the piece tighter to the template (there's about 1mm excess in spots). I'm working the piece right to left against the spin of the router. The router is running at full speed (should I slow it down?).

Any thoughts will be helpful. Thanks!

 

[woodferret]

Intertape 591

 

[ChuckS]

Been using this (1") for years. It can only be too strong (and it sucks if you can pry the pieces apart! So, I use narrow strips (1/4" or 1/2") for smaller pieces):

Double-Sided Turning Tape - Lee Valley Tools

Discover the Double-Sided Turning Tape. Buy this product now on our Lee Valley online store.

www.leevalley.com

 

[Vondawg]

Well I was going to report on mine (the last roll has lasted forever) but turn out it’s one of the ones you’re using -Avery Dennison from StewMac- and works great for me…I am fussy about blowing off work with compressed air before applying, but if any5hing I have trouble removing it
They DO have an extra strength…have not tried that. Seems crazy to be paying $75 for a 100’ of tape (and in your case NOT having it work for you
Edit: looks like Chucks recommendation is cheaper and worth a try

 

[rmhinden]

I use this: Intertape 591 Premium Double Sided Golf Grip Tape

Works great. Comes in different widths.

 

[Cheese]

What tape do the Shaper Origin folks use?

 

[Sparktrician]

I might suggest using isopropyl alcohol to wipe down the surfaces to which you are going to apply the double-sided tape before applying the tape of choice.

 

[rmhinden]

What tape do the Shaper Origin folks use?

I use the Intertape linked above. I that is (or was) the same tape Shaper sells, but now it is labeled with Shaper's name. See: https://www.shapertools.com/en-us/store/product/2-in-double-sided-tape

Bob

 

[4nthony]

What tape do the Shaper Origin folks use?

Shaper tape used to have OEM branding on the inside but now it all just says Shaper. I've been very happy using Shaper tape. It holds well and is easily removed.

On the other hand, the X-Fasten woodworking tape I have is terrible. It rips off strands of ply, leaves a gummy residue, and is difficult to handle. However, if you need to tape something for long-term hold, it's great.

Edit: Just noticed the OEM is linked above. Funny they call it golf grip tape.

 

[hdv]

I have been using the "double-sided tape for woodworking" from LLPT for years now. It never let me down and at the same time it is nice on the wood fibres when pulling it off.

Here on the forum people have recommended XFasten, but I haven't used it myself yet.

 

[bertv]

Never tried it, but some swear by it: painters tape and super glue. Tape on both objects and instant glue to put them together. Activator optional.

 

[jeffinsgf]

Try SpecTape 501. Thin and sticky. Usually releases relatively easily, but can occasionally pull some wood fibers. Never had that happen deeper than I plan to sand. Woodpeckers sells the 1". I keep both 1" and 2" in the shop.

Edited to Add: I agree with 4nthony. I hate that gooey X-Fasten.

 

[woodferret]

FWIW, Shaper's Tape is Intertape 591. As for Lee Valley, I'm pretty sure it's Scapa 174.

 

[Steve1]

I also suspect you have excessive dust or other on the surfaces of your wood. Try cleaning the surfaces prior to use.

I use double sided Duck Tape. My only problem with this tape is that it sticks too well, and on softer woods can pull out pieces of wood when I remove the tape.
For softer woods, I will often use the painters tape and CA as described in Post #11.

 

[Michael Kellough]

MDF is not a very friendly surface for pressure sensitive adhesives.

Good tips above.

Also, if the template will be used multiple times, prepare the tape side surface to better accept the tape. Apply some finish and sand it smooth when dry. The double stick will adhere a lot better. If it doesn’t warrant that much effort (or time) apply packing tape to the surface and burnish down. The double stick will adhere better to the smooth plastic surface of the packing tape than to blue tape, but blue tape might be good enough.

 

[onocoffee]

MDF is not a very friendly surface for pressure sensitive adhesives.

Good tips above.

Also, if the template will be used multiple times, prepare the tape side surface to better accept the tape. Apply some finish and sand it smooth when dry. The double stick will adhere a lot better. If it doesn’t warrant that much effort (or time) apply packing tape to the surface and burnish down. The double stick will adhere better to the smooth plastic surface of the packing tape than to blue tape, but blue tape might be good enough.

I have to admit to getting the MDF template idea from watching YouTubers. The templates are intended to be used multiple times. Thanks for the advice. Any particular finish works better for MDF?

 

[woodferret]

Is that 1/4 MDF actually MDF or is it hardboard? The hardboard burnished face is pretty good tape wise. It's the edge that eventually frays and may need CA glue reinforcement. Economy MDF (usually 1/2"+ here) is the one that really doesn't have a good tape face - but usually the lighter paper face can still live up to a few pulls.

 

[onocoffee]

Is that 1/4 MDF actually MDF or is it hardboard? The hardboard burnished face is pretty good tape wise. It's the edge that eventually frays and may need CA glue reinforcement. Economy MDF (usually 1/2"+ here) is the one that really doesn't have a good tape face - but usually the lighter paper face can still live up to a few pulls.

It is actual MDF rather than hardboard.

 

[onocoffee]

Oh, and I should have noted that when running the workpiece with the double-sided tape and the MDF template on the router table - when they separate, the tape stays on the workpiece and it's the adhesion between the tape and the MDF that is failing.

 

[Stone Message]

Even the very best tape can fail when put on MDF. The MDF surface is not ideal for a membrane glue tape - just imagine how well the tape will work on a shiny surface like glass or plastic. So, vacuum of any dust or loose particals from the MDF and apply the tape to the MDF first. Before removing the paper to expose the second surface of the double sided tape press it firmly against the MDF to get the very best bond that you can.

If that continues to fail then consider coating the MDF surface with shellac or water based varnish and letting it dry before trying again.

Peter