Is It Just Me? Or Does Double-Sided Tape Suck?

[onocoffee]

Even the very best tape can fail when put on MDF. The MDF surface is not ideal for a membrane glue tape - just imagine how well the tape will work on a shiny surface like glass or plastic. So, vacuum of any dust or loose particals from the MDF and apply the tape to the MDF first. Before removing the paper to expose the second surface of the double sided tape press it firmly against the MDF to get the very best bond that you can.

If that continues to fail then consider coating the MDF surface with shellac or water based varnish and letting it dry before trying again.

Peter

Thank you, Peter. I will apply the tape to the templates first!

 

[Packard]

Basically, the only thing I used double-sided tape (the thick stuff) is as a “clamp” when using silicone adhesive (or more frequently E6000). I apply (usually) 4 small squares of the tape in the corners and then apply the adhesive and then press in place. I avoid the temptation to use the setup immediately, instead always waiting 24 hours for the adhesive to cure.

(E6000, a styrene-based adhesive, is clear, remains flexible and has excellent adhesion to non-porous surfaces like porcelain, glass, polished granite, etc. While seemingly similar to silicone adhesive, it has vastly stronger holding power. The thick double-faced tape allows nice “puddles” of adhesive to form, making a very strong bond.)

 

[Crazyraceguy]

I have used a few different kinds. Some of it was turner's tape from a local woodworking store, I got something from Amazon wone time. It worked pretty well. My experience with the X-fasten isn't as bad as some of you have had.
Maybe it is because I got the 1/2"? It holds well, but is a bit rough to remove. Most of the time, I just roll it up with my thumb. I haven't had the fiber tearing out problem or extra gooey though.
A lot of times, I shoot a micro pin or 2 into the 1/4 MDF. 23 ga pins are headless , so the parts pull right off and I just break off the remnant from the spoil-board. Pin holes don't have any effect on templates.

 

[onocoffee]

I have used a few different kinds. Some of it was turner's tape from a local woodworking store, I got something from Amazon wone time. It worked pretty well. My experience with the X-fasten isn't as bad as some of you have had.
Maybe it is because I got the 1/2"? It holds well, but is a bit rough to remove. Most of the time, I just roll it up with my thumb. I haven't had the fiber tearing out problem or extra gooey though.
A lot of times, I shoot a micro pin or 2 into the 1/4 MDF. 23 ga pins are headless , so the parts pull right off and I just break off the remnant from the spoil-board. Pin holes don't have any effect on templates.

I had been thinking about .23ga pins. It's not difficult to extract the pins after you're done?

 

[Packard]

My issue with 23 gage pins (I was an early adopter), is that they too easily follow the grain. You do know where they enter the stock, but where the point ends up, is anyone’s guess.

I got mine in the late 1990s. I rarely use it.

 

[Imemiter]

I rarely have double-stick tape on me, so I often end up using blue painters tape and 2P-10. The template and workpiece both get taped with drops of glue applied to the dry side of the work tape. I'll spray accelerator at the joint once the template is aligned. Hold to clamp for a few seconds and it's ready to go.

 

[Packard]

I use an ATG (Adhesive Transfer Gun), which applied the sticky bit of double faced tape without the tape part. The advantage is that it is very fast and easy to apply accurately. You can also double up on the adhesive resulting in even more holding power. But it follows the contours exactly, so either both surfaces to be joined have to be very flat and smooth, or one surface has to be flexible to follow the contours.

The thick double-faced tape is designed to accommodate uneven surfaces. The rubber carrier of the adhesive will address uneven surfaces and still yield good adhesion.

Adhesive Transfer “Tape” can also be applied manually, but it is slower to use. Picture framers use Adhesive Transfer Guns extensively to join layers of mat board, to mount needle work on backing board, and to apply dust covers to the rear of frames.

The downside is that it can be difficult to remove the adhesive when you are done. In many cases it is not necessary to remove the adhesive, and it is ideal for holding trim in place.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

I had been thinking about .23ga pins. It's not difficult to extract the pins after you're done?

Not at all. In thin stock, like 1/4" MDF (making templates) it pops off easier than most of the tapes. The pin will stay in the spoilboard. You can either break it off, or try to pull it out. I use pliers that are specifically intended for that, they work well. The key is to use short pins. A 3/4" pin will pull out most of the time.
The manufacturers have gone off the rails with lengths though. 2" is way too long. If you need something that long, 23 ga is not the thing.
You just have to be careful about where you put them. The advantage of Origin, is that you can make a shallow first pass and know exactly where it will cut.