Thinking of building my own kitchen cabinets and will need to edge the plywood boxes. Banding strips seem like the easiest but also seem like they are prone to flicking off. Solid banding seems like Titebond would be the way to go but clamping is the issue. So I've come to think about PVA as a solution... strong enough for edge banding? I've also got a pin nailer to hold the banding while the Titebond dries so that's another option. Advice? Thanks!
Is PVA + Activator strong enough for edge banding?
- Thread starter Mark
- Start date
Mark Enomoto said:
Well for clamping you could use bar clamps from the back to front of the box, takes quite a few though if you want to do more than a couple at a time. The Bessey edge clamps ( http://www.amazon.com/Bessey-EKT55-One-Handed-Edge-Clamp/dp/B000022457 ) work very well but are pricey and again same problem as bar clamps when it comes to quantity.
If you go 1/2" - 3/4" thick you can use glue and pocket screws on anything that has the outside of the cabinet sides hidden.
If you go thinner the pinner will do the job, maybe with a little tape too.
Not sure about the PVA + activator
Seth
Mark Enomoto said:
Isn't titebond a PVA glue? Do you mean CA glue (Cyanoacrylate)?
Check out Bowclamps for solid edge banding. Depending on what kind of wood and thickness you are using, a pin nailer won't hold the solid edge banding flat without shooting 1000 pins in it. shoot 2-3 pins, throw on some bowclamps, and you are golden.
Sorry, yes CA glue. A friend of mine did his kitchen cabs using the stuff and said that it worked fine for him though its a new job so only time will tell I guess. John Lucas I think did just use painters tape and it worked fine to hold the edge banding long enough for it to set. I'll have to check out his site again if its still running. Thanks for the advice, since I've got time but no money... doing it right but slow is the way to go!
jmbfestool
Member
- Joined
- Jan 9, 2009
- Messages
- 6,646
I would not use CA glue your on about with the activator for edge banding.
Long time ago [big grin]. I was fitting a kitchen and I just finished fitting the work tops. I had two ends of the work tops to edge but just had enough contact adhesive left for one edge very annoying! Well...
I thought I got plenty of the glue activator I'll stick the edge on with that! Well 3months later client called me up saying the edge had fallen off [embarassed]. I had to go back clean it up and restick it with contact adhesive.
Also Ca glue isn't cheap for glueing large areas if you have a lot of edging to do you'll soon run out.
Depending on the finish your doing I personally would not want pin on the face edge and would go for the clamping method.
Jmb
Long time ago [big grin]. I was fitting a kitchen and I just finished fitting the work tops. I had two ends of the work tops to edge but just had enough contact adhesive left for one edge very annoying! Well...
I thought I got plenty of the glue activator I'll stick the edge on with that! Well 3months later client called me up saying the edge had fallen off [embarassed]. I had to go back clean it up and restick it with contact adhesive.
Also Ca glue isn't cheap for glueing large areas if you have a lot of edging to do you'll soon run out.
Depending on the finish your doing I personally would not want pin on the face edge and would go for the clamping method.
Jmb
PaulMarcel
Member
I use BowClamps like Vindingo. The problem is holding the banding in place while you put the clamp on. Pin nails would work, but I usually just use packing tape stretched over the banding on two ends. Holds well and easy to get the BowClamp on. Sometimes I just use packing tape if it is small or has a profile preventing using the BowClamp. I only recently got a pin nailer so I don't think of it much while working.
One way I've used CA glue for banding is for holding it there. Paint PVA on leaving 3 spots clear; put CA on the spots just before pressing it on and hold until it sets. Sets quickly the activator is largely just moisture to catalyze it... the nearby PVA that squeezes onto the CA does the trick. Handy on small moldings. I wouldn't use CA for the whole banding, though.
One way I've used CA glue for banding is for holding it there. Paint PVA on leaving 3 spots clear; put CA on the spots just before pressing it on and hold until it sets. Sets quickly the activator is largely just moisture to catalyze it... the nearby PVA that squeezes onto the CA does the trick. Handy on small moldings. I wouldn't use CA for the whole banding, though.
Similar threads
