Is Rotex Break In Procedure For Real?

[darita]

I just now found out about a break in procedure for my 2 Rotex sanders.  The procedure was to run the Rotex in both regular and aggressive modes for 4 hours each.  This is supposed to get the sander broken in and prevent a jumpy sander.  Is this for real or just a myth?  I can see the motor brushes need to get seated before they produce max power, but I can't see how this break in would make the sander run smoother.  Please explain...

 

[erock]

darita.....I can't put anything on the internet that isn't true.    [tongue]

But yes, it's true.  When I first started using my RO125 it was jumpy.  After I did a quick search here on the FOG I read more then a couple post about breaking in the RO sanders.  The brushes, the gears all need to go on a little honeymoon with one another to allow the sander to work smoothly.

Eric

 

[Claimdude]

darita.....I can't put anything on the internet that isn't true.    [tongue]

But yes, it's true.  When I first started using my RO125 it was jumpy.  After I did a quick search here on the FOG I read more then a couple post about breaking in the RO sanders.  The brushes, the gears all need to go on a little honeymoon with one another to allow the sander to work smoothly.

Eric

I have had my RO125 for about three years with at most 2 or 3 hrs actual total run time. Will using the break in technique help even though I have used it a while?

Thanks
Jack

 

[greg mann]

I think all of the sanders benefit from some run-in time. My RO150 was jumpy in the beginning too. Thought it was me. After some time it got better and better. Thought it was me. Now I can one hand it pretty much anytime even after not picking it up for extended time lapses. My muscle memory isn't that good to just be able to control it so nicely now when I could not in the beginning. My RS2 and.my DTS also needed some time to smooth out. RO90 too.

 

[greg mann]

I know it sounds crazy but everyone of my sanders has run better after several days usage. I did not use a break-in procedure per se, but they just settled down the more I used them so I am willing to accept the concept. I just cannot give you a good reason why it would be necessary.

 

[deepcreek]

An initial break in of 10 hours running while hanging from a rope made a big difference in the power of my ETS125.

 

[rjwz28]

Rick, care to elaborate on that?  I've heard the same thing.  My RO-125 is still jumpy to me even after a few hours breaking in.

Thanks,
Rob

[ Edited to remove quote - Shane ]

 

[Rick Christopherson]

The existence of jitter in any sander is a completely different topic, but it is not related to, or corrected by, any sort of break-in period.

[ Edited by Shane ]

 

[Stephen B]

While I do not think any sander needs to be strung up 'by the short and xXX' to be run in, I do believe that my Rotex150 and ETS 125 have benefited from 'use'. Conversely my ETS150 was s m o o t h from the beginning.

As for the jitters, uneven surface, paper grade and speed selection are more likely to be factors. As said by others in other posts and threads, often the jitters are resolved by a slight rotation of the whole sander.

I also move any sander evenly and slowly, not waving it all over the place, like you see on some U-Tube videos.

'Feel the force, young Luke.'

[wink]

 

[AlexThePalex]

I have the RO 150 and the RO 90, and helped a friend buy a RO 125, which I can loan when I want and I think I've perhaps used it more than my friend himself.

NONE of them needed any break in period and were good right out of the box.

I think that people who profit from a break in period for these sanders mainly need it for themselves, you know, to get used to this type of sander. If you've never used an angled eccentric sander it can be a handful at first. I've been handling angled sanders since I was 10 years old, so I didn't need to get used to the Rotexes and got full performance right from the start.

The 8 hour break in period often mentioned here is for the smaller DTS 400, RTS 400 and ETS 125 sanders. They don't have such powerful motors, so when factory tolerances are a bit tight, like with the brushes and the pad brake, a new sander can be a bit hampered initially, and need to wear in to get rid of that. The Rotexes on the other hand have powerful motors, they aren't the least bit bothered by that.
 
What I said above doesn't mean that a Rotex can't become smoother over time. Internal components still wear a bit and become settled better. It just means that it's of no influence on the first couple of hours you use a Rotex.
 

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

As not to be redundant, please check out my post here: http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-how-to/for-all-you-new-rotex-users-a-public-service-announcement/msg277548

The existence of jitter in any sander is a completely different topic, but it is not related to, or corrected by, any sort of break-in period.

The lack of break-in could potentially contribute to an issue with "jumping" since the tool isn't running at full power.

More often, how the tool is being handled is the primary consideration. An exceptionally low grit, the sander not being run at full speed, or using Rotex mode on thin stock can also be contributors.

Have a look at this article about technique on how to handle the Rotex to improve jitter as it's called here.

http://blog.festoolusa.com/post/2011/02/18/Why-Technique-Matters.aspx

 

[zapdafish]

For me, jitters were mainly caused by me forgetting to turn the suction down after switching from the ts 55. Now that I've had mine for so long, its second nature to dial it down when I hook up a sander.

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

Rotex sanders really should not be affected by suction being turned all the way up, only the smaller less powerful sanders. However, if you found that helped for you, that's good. Maybe it will help others.

 

[fdengel]

What I've found with my RO 150 is that it helps to have the suction turned down when working on large flat surfaces, but if I have the sander sideways (sanding a vertical surface) or am working on a smaller piece or at an edge where the pad is not mostly/completely covered by the material, it is better to leave the suction all the way up.

 

[greg mann]

I have the RO 150 and the RO 90, and helped a friend buy a RO 125, which I can loan when I want and I think I've perhaps used it more than my friend himself.

NONE of them needed any break in period and were good right out of the box.

I think that people who profit from a break in period for these sanders mainly need it for themselves, you know, to get used to this type of sander. If you've never used an angled eccentric sander it can be a handful at first. I've been handling angled sanders since I was 10 years old, so I didn't need to get used to the Rotexes and got full performance right from the start.

The 8 hour break in period often mentioned here is for the smaller DTS 400, RTS 400 and ETS 125 sanders. They don't have such powerful motors, so when factory tolerances are a bit tight, like with the brushes and the pad brake, a new sander can be a bit hampered initially, and need to wear in to get rid of that. The Rotexes on the other hand have powerful motors, they aren't the least bit bothered by that.
 
What I said above doesn't mean that a Rotex can't become smoother over time. Internal components still wear a bit and become settled better. It just means that it's of no influence on the first couple of hours you use a Rotex.
 

Alex,

I would tend to agree with this except for the fact that I can now go months without using my RO150 and it is still very smooth. It certainly was not in the beginning and I don't believe I have the handling technique so imbedded in my muscle memory that I am immune to 'rookie mistakes'. The sander is just more forgiving. When I got the RO90 I went through thesame process. I know because of a smaller footprint certain movements will not translate directly from the 150 but it seems to be smoothing out as well the more I use it.

 

[Michael Kellough]

When new the collar/dust shroud rubs tightly on the top of the sanding pad. This inhibits rotation of the pad and in combination with the slightly lower current flow through new brushes may result in lower performance than a "burned-in" sander.

Also, and probably more significant, when unfamiliar with the Festool sanding system users tend to use too much suction which also inhibits rotation of the pad and results in "jumpy" performance.

Just use the tool. If it's unfamiliar use it on unimportant work. While it's exhibiting "jumpy" performance just move your grip lower on the sander. When the collar and sanding pad wear in so the pad spins easy using the sander will be second nature and you'll have sanded some stuff to completion.

 

[avrs22]

When I got my ro 125 and ro90 I was disappointed that in random orbit mode the pad barely turned.
I hung both of them and let them run a few hrs,
Then when I tried them again I noticed that the pad turn a lot more.
After stripping a few staircases I now find that they only get better the more you use them.

 

[darita]

Shane, thanks for all the info. Would it be harmful to an Rotex to be broken in by a 4 hour unloaded run?

 

[Rick Christopherson]

Shane, thanks for all the info. Would it be harmful to an Rotex to be broken in by a 4 hour unloaded run?

It will neither help it nor harm it, aside from the needless hours put on the motor.

 

[Omar157]

I know this is an old thread but I spoke to festool regarding the break in and they told me not to waste my time or electric and just turn my ct down to 50%. The pad is the only thing that needs to be broken in.