Is this safe?

[Packard]

And how did he start the cut?  It does not seem to be a plunge router? I am trying to mime my way through the first plunge without a plunge router and I am not comfortable with the process. 

A CNC router would have worked.

 

[ChuckM]

Before the plunge router was invented, old folks angled their routers to start such a cut.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

Before the plunge router was invented, old folks angled their routers to start such a cut.

And that's exactly why plunge routers were invented. Unless it's a pretty shallow cut, that's sketchy.

 

[Packard]

I have to cut a ¼" wide x ¼" deep groove centered on the face of a cabinet door frame that is 3½" wide x ¾" thick.  I need the groove for the spline on a wicker door front.  It has to go entirely around the frame.

I was planning on doing this on the table mounted router and using the fence for a guide.  I would mark the two edges of the router bit on the fence and make marks for the location of the grooves on the work-piece.  I would guide the door frame until I approach the marks on the fence.  I would clean up the corners with a chisel.

Any thoughts on that approach?

 

[tsmi243]

I have to cut a ¼" wide x ¼" deep groove centered on the face of a cabinet door frame that is 3½" wide x ¾" thick.  I need the groove for the spline on a wicker door front.  It has to go entirely around the frame.

I was planning on doing this on the table mounted router and using the fence for a guide.  I would mark the two edges of the router bit on the fence and make marks for the location of the grooves on the work-piece.  I would guide the door frame until I approach the marks on the fence.  I would clean up the corners with a chisel.

Any thoughts on that approach?

I think that's probably the most common way of doing it.  You'll still be manually "plunging" into the cut, but it's easier to do on a table router than a handheld.  Norm Abram did that method a ton on his table saw, on the NYW.

 

[Packard]

The complication, which I did not mention, is that the door frame is already painted.  I will be using a down cutting Whiteside bit, which should eliminate any tear-out. 

I will also allow the paint a couple of weeks to cure and I will use the easy-release yellow Frog tape to protect the area not to be cut. 

After I get that all done, I have to apply the cane webbing without screwing up all that went before it.  And this is all new to me. 

The inspiration was this cabinet from Pottery Barn.  All the cabinets in the bathroom were emerald green, and I wanted to break that up.  The cane center panel seemed like a good way to do this. 

https://www.potterybarn.com/products/dolores-cane-cabinet-buffet-mp/

 

[tsmi243]

Whatever you're comfortable with is probably the answer. 

I'm really at home with a plunge router- so I'd clamp the door down to the bench, and mask the entire face.  Use an edge guide on the outer edge, and just eyeball the corners.  Square up with a chisel, as you said.

If you don't have (or just don't like) plunge routers, then a table router is probably just as good.  Triple check your layout lines, and go to town.  It's just a groove.  What could possibly go wrong?  [big grin]

 

[ChuckM]

The complication, which I did not mention, is that the door frame is already painted.  I will be using a down cutting Whiteside bit, which should eliminate any tear-out.  Snip.

Tape as Tsmi suggested would help but not foolproof as paint/wood fibre can still tear. If I were doing such a delicate cut with only one-take, I'd do this:

- Put tape on the cutline area
- Scribe on the tape/wood with a sharp marking gauge (scribe in three strokes: light, med & heavy) to mark off the good and waste side. If you aren't familiar with the three-stroke technique, practice it on a scrap). A deep incised line will prevent tearing off the paint.
- Set the plunge fence so the cutting edge of the bit is on the waste side
- Make multiple passes, not one heavy pass to remove the waste.

You can actually run through the whole thing on a scrap (unpainted or painted).

I wouldn't do it using a router table though as it's much harder to set/position the fence precisely.

 

[Packard]

I figure I will make one last light coat of Advance after the groove is cut--unless it is perfect after the cut.  But that is the plan.

I will think about using the plunge base and an edge guide.  I do prefer seeing what I am cutting to seeing indicator lines. 

I will try out a sample on some scrap MDF or plywood.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

How big are these doors? Especially in comparison to your router table's fence.
I think, at first thought, that I would do it one the table, with stops.
It would take two set-ups, assuming that the doors are not square.
Using a test piece of the same size, set a start and stop position, using stops clamped to the fence or table. Run those edges. Then change the set-up (stops) to the length of the other sides, so they meet the previous grooves in the corners. No guessing, no slow-downs hoping to hit it close enough, chisel the corners, done.
The fact that the parts are pre-painted is unfortunate. It poses some risk, either way, above or below.
I have had mixed results with tape. Sometimes it works fine, other times it catches or snags, which is a problem. It can make things worse.

 

[Packard]

The door is 24” x 20”.  I drilled for the Blum hinges and fitted it to the cabinet before I painted the frame.

Inserting the cane panel is the final step (except for the plumbing).