JessEm Router Base Enclosure

[fpsnyder]

Latest project…trickier to build than it looks since it has to be assembled inside the router table frame. I used black Melamine for the body, 5/8” Baltic Birch for the drawer bodies, and Berenson bar pulls in Champagne which is a really close match to the JessEm aluminum color. Dust collection is superb and the enclosure helps muffle the router noise a bit, and the extra weight of the enclosure makes the table feel more “solid” while in use. I went with the round windows as the doors are just particleboard/Melamine, and it was easier to drill a round hole than a square one.

I have this all modeled in SketchUp if anyone wants to attempt to build one for themselves.

 

[luvmytoolz]

Fantastic, looks great!

 

[peacefulandpatriotically]

Really nice job! I recently purchased the same package from jessem (ultimate excel I think is the name) and was looking around for ideas to build a cabinet for storage and dust containment within the aluminum frame.  I would love to take a look at your digital plans if you wouldn't mind sharing

 

[fpsnyder]

Thank you! I’ll post a DropBox link here later today with the SketchUp model and accompanying cut list.

 

[jdm5]

Very impressive - looks too nice to work in/on!

 

[fpsnyder]

Thank you! I actually hear that a lot with my entire shop...

 

[fpsnyder]

Here is the DropBox link to the SketchUp model (.skp), plans (.pdf) and cut sheets (.pdf). Let me know if you have any questions or trouble accessing the link.JessEm Router Table Enclosure

 

[Steve1]

Ya think maybe it's time to clean this up?

 

[fpsnyder]

Yikes! I don’t think the router table is also supposed to be the dust collector…

 

[Rutabagared]

Great job.  You have a nice, clean shop.  I'd love to see more pics of it.

 

[Packard]

It looks fantastic.  Have you tallied your costs?

 

[fpsnyder]

Thank you! Fortunately, I retained my receipts so I can give you my costs which may vary depending on where you reside.

Cabinet - 3/4" Black Melamine (49"x97") x 1 @ $53.96
Black Edge banding - 7/8" x 50' $8.00
Drawer bodies - 15mm Baltic Birch (60"x60") x 1 @ $123.73 (really only need half sheet here, so you could do 30" x 60" if available)
Drawer bottoms - 6mm Baltic Birch (60"x60") x 1 @ $53.96 (really only need half sheet here, so you could do 30" x 60" if available)
Door windows - 1/8" PlexiGlass (1' x 2') @ $10
Rockler Mini Dust Hood @ $16
Pulls - Berensen 7-9/16" center-to-center Transitional Advantage T-Bar Pull (Champagne color) x 2 @ $4.52 = $9.04
          Berensen 1-9/16" Inch Length Transitional Advantage T-Bar Pull (Champagne color) x 2 @ $2.39 - $4.78
Hinges - Blum ClipTop 110+ Half-Cranked Hinge (71B3650) x 4 @ $6.16 = $24.64
            Blum Inset Mounting Plate (175H5030) x 4 @ $2.86 = $11.84
            Screws for plates and hinges $5
Drawer Slides - Accuride 3832C Full-Extension 18" x 2 @ $16.83 = $33.66
2" Wire Grommet - $4
Pocket Screws and misc. screws were on hand.
Finish for drawer bodies (Target Coatings Em2000) was on hand.
Before applicable taxes and shipping costs...total was around $358.61. If you can get half-sheets of Baltic Birch, then the cost would likely be well under $300, or you could use whatever you have lying around to make drawer bodies. I also used 100% silicone caulk which I had on hand to retain the PlexiGlass in the doors.

 

[fpsnyder]

I'll post pictures of my shop once I finish the shop cabinets for it..may be a month or so before I complete them.

 

[Rutabagared]

I'll post pictures of my shop once I finish the shop cabinets for it..may be a month or so before I complete them.

OK.  Thank you.  Looking forward to it.

 

[Packard]

Thank you! Fortunately, I retained my receipts so I can give you my costs which may vary depending on where you reside.

Cabinet - 3/4" Black Melamine (49"x97") x 1 @ $53.96
Black Edge banding - 7/8" x 50' $8.00
Drawer bodies - 15mm Baltic Birch (60"x60") x 1 @ $123.73 (really only need half sheet here, so you could do 30" x 60" if available)
Drawer bottoms - 6mm Baltic Birch (60"x60") x 1 @ $53.96 (really only need half sheet here, so you could do 30" x 60" if available)
Door windows - 1/8" PlexiGlass (1' x 2') @ $10
Rockler Mini Dust Hood @ $16
Pulls - Berensen 7-9/16" center-to-center Transitional Advantage T-Bar Pull (Champagne color) x 2 @ $4.52 = $9.04
          Berensen 1-9/16" Inch Length Transitional Advantage T-Bar Pull (Champagne color) x 2 @ $2.39 - $4.78
Hinges - Blum ClipTop 110+ Half-Cranked Hinge (71B3650) x 4 @ $6.16 = $24.64
            Blum Inset Mounting Plate (175H5030) x 4 @ $2.86 = $11.84
            Screws for plates and hinges $5
Drawer Slides - Accuride 3832C Full-Extension 18" x 2 @ $16.83 = $33.66
2" Wire Grommet - $4
Pocket Screws and misc. screws were on hand.
Finish for drawer bodies (Target Coatings Em2000) was on hand.
Before applicable taxes and shipping costs...total was around $358.61. If you can get half-sheets of Baltic Birch, then the cost would likely be well under $300, or you could use whatever you have lying around to make drawer bodies. I also used 100% silicone caulk which I had on hand to retain the PlexiGlass in the doors.

You used a Jessem fence?  And a Jessem router lift? What about the aluminum extrusions?  And the joiners for them?

OK.  Never mind the aluminum extrusions.  I see the stand is made from them and is $381.00.

Boy, it really starts to add up, doesn’t it?

 

[fpsnyder]

I thought I was just being asked about the material costs for the enclosure alone. The table and fence was a package deal from JessEm (Ultimate Excel II), plus had to add the router motor (JessEm Pow-R-Tek SR) and a few additional accessories. That cost was closer to $2500. They offered the table package at a 15% discount at the time of purchase (around Black Friday), so some savings is possible when they do that. Not cheap, but this is probably the nicest router table available…just needed an enclosure.

 

[Packard]

I thought I was just being asked about the material costs for the enclosure alone. The table and fence was a package deal from JessEm (Ultimate Excel II), plus had to add the router motor (JessEm Pow-R-Tek SR) and a few additional accessories. That cost was closer to $2500. They offered the table package at a 15% discount at the time of purchase (around Black Friday), so some savings is possible when they do that. Not cheap, but this is probably the nicest router table available…just needed an enclosure.

Whoa.  That’s more than some shapers.  Jet sells a 1-1/2 hp shaper for $1900.00 which would leave money left over to buy cutters. 

Yours looks really nice, and it allows you to continue using the router bits that you currently own.  But a shaper sounds, well, more aspirational.

It’s easy to see how this happens.  You get the router.  Then you add the lift.  And then the fence.  And, well you already have the router, lift and fence.  Might as well get the base. 

I’m not far from that, though I went a cheaper route. 

But if I were to move from New York to Florida, for example, I would definitely sell off some of my equipment and start over.  I think a shaper would be on my shopping list.

The radial arm saw would have to go, and my Contractors’ II would too as it does not have a splitter. 

Maybe we should have a thread, “If I were starting out over again with a budget of $xxxx.xx, this would be on my list.”

 

[72anthony]

Great integration with the stand/table. Looks like it came from the factory.

 

[peacefulandpatriotically]

I thought I was just being asked about the material costs for the enclosure alone. The table and fence was a package deal from JessEm (Ultimate Excel II), plus had to add the router motor (JessEm Pow-R-Tek SR) and a few additional accessories. That cost was closer to $2500. They offered the table package at a 15% discount at the time of purchase (around Black Friday), so some savings is possible when they do that. Not cheap, but this is probably the nicest router table available…just needed an enclosure.

Whoa.  That’s more than some shapers.  Jet sells a 1-1/2 hp shaper for $1900.00 which would leave money left over to buy cutters. 

Yours looks really nice, and it allows you to continue using the router bits that you currently own.  But a shaper sounds, well, more aspirational.

It’s easy to see how this happens.  You get the router.  Then you add the lift.  And then the fence.  And, well you already have the router, lift and fence.  Might as well get the base. 

I’m not far from that, though I went a cheaper route. 

But if I were to move from New York to Florida, for example, I would definitely sell off some of my equipment and start over.  I think a shaper would be on my shopping list.

The radial arm saw would have to go, and my Contractors’ II would too as it does not have a splitter. 

Maybe we should have a thread, “If I were starting out over again with a budget of $xxxx.xx, this would be on my list.”

What would you be able to do with a shaper that you are not able to do with a router table?  I hear folks on forums discuss this frequently and they never present any convincing argument for a shaper instead of a quality router table setup, rather they just cite its capability of running larger cutters and cutting pieces with fewer passes, which is quite obvious given their larger motors and collets.

Rob Cosman is in my opinion a fine craftsman and superb teacher, along with being a great salesman.  If you can get past his sales pitches for the products he sells, he offers many pearls of information.  I bring this up because he has discussed on at least two occasions "shaper" tables and he was pretty clear that outside of industrial, mass production environments they have little benefit in contemporary high-end furniture shops.  Maybe a year or so ago he had two General shapers for sale (not the junk from General International) manufactured in Canada during the good old days.  Now this is just one dude's opinion on the topic but his experience and perspective is valuable (in my opinion).

 

[Crazyraceguy]

There are advantages to an actual shaper, but for the average home-shop guy, they don't matter enough to justify the cost of tooling.
Larger diameter cutters will generally give you less tear-out, even with the exact same cut, just because it exits the wood at a much lower angle. Most, but not all, can tilt the spindle too, which opens up a lot of options. They can also reverse rotation (flip the cutter over) and climb-cut, with a powerfeeder.
None of this is a huge benefit to most of us and the cost of cutters is a lot higher. You are likely getting into 220-240v requirements, which may be a deal-breaker for some too. They either don't have it in the first place or only have one line for their table saw.