Jig saw instead of a band saw.

[Brian Livingstone]

Hello, 

One of the only "major" tools that I do not have is a band saw.  Looking at my 2 car garage shop, it is unlikely I will have the room for one anytime soon.  I cut curved boards on occasion, and could benefit from a really good jig saw.  Can  the Festool jig saw be considered an adequate replacement for a bandsaw, for a woodworker that makes mostly straight cuts ? 

Thank you.

 

[The Dude]

Brian, as much as I would like to tell you yes...I would vote NO; a bandsaw in my opinion is an invaluable asset to the shop arsenal!

I suppose one could argue that the Trion could replace a bandsaw somewhat.  However, if you have a good bandsaw that is turned up...there is nothing like it.  The versatility that you gain in good bandsaw technique is second to none.  The capability for ripping, curves, re-saw, it's all there.

Buy a good bandsaw, and a trion...lol

Timmy C

 

[Brice Burrell]

 Brian, my opion differs from Timmys, in a small shop, I say yes. If you have the space someday and the need, you can always get one then. The one thing you really can't do with a jig saw is resaw wood, but with a good setup you could use the TS 55 or TS 75 for that.

 

[Dan Lyke]

I have the jig saw, and wish I had a bandsaw too (and wish I had the space for it...), mostly for resawing capabilities. There's a lot you can do with the jigsaw, and I haven't had a chance to build some of the jigs that I've wanted to do to try to, for instance, get some planks out of some madrone that we've cut, but I'd love to have a bandsaw so that I could book match some of those bigger pieces of wood.

 

[Bob Marino]

  Brian,

The bandsaw can an invaluable tool in the shop - nothing like it for resawing or cutting really thick stock. Yes, I do think Festool's Trion is the best out there, but you are taxing the saw, or the saw's ability to cut and track straight when you are at about the  3 1/2" - 4" mark, even with practice.
Are you working with sheetgoods and relatively thinner stock (under 3" thick) primarily? If so the bandsaw may not be needed (desired, yes, but not needed), especially in a small shop. But if you are doing lots of non sheetgoods furniture and working with thicker hardwoods and if you have the wanting to resaw (which is a beautiful thing) a well tuned bandsaw can't be beat. It doesn't have to be a 20" saw either - just well tuned with a good blade and some practice.
Nothing wrong with having the Trion (or any good jigsaw for that matter) and the bandsaw - just for the sheer convenience. They have overlapping as well as complimentary applications.

Bob

 

[Michael Kellough]

A 14" bandsaw takes up about as much space as a trash can. Put it on a mobile base and you can probably find the space for it.

 

[John Langevin]

I have the Trion but often wish I had a Bandsaw for cutting ribs and other curved boat parts, as well as resawing. I must say I am disappointed in the Trion, it is difficult to see the blade which makes it hard to follow a line. I have also have had problems with the blade over heating at the anti-sway bearing points and bending. I recently got the circle cutting attachment and attempted to cut a 24" diameter round table top from 5/8" thick polycarbonate. The attachment lacks a scale which makes it slower to set to the desired radius but worse yet, even though I tightened both screws the bar slipped and I ended up with a pinwheel shape; not good! If anyone has any suggestions I would welcome them. Matt please feel free to move this post if it is inappropriate.

 

[Michael Kellough]

1. I must say I am disappointed in the Trion, it is difficult to see the blade which makes it hard to follow a line.

2. I have also have had problems with the blade over heating at the anti-sway bearing points and bending.

3. I recently got the circle cutting attachment and attempted to cut a 24" diameter round table top from 5/8" thick polycarbonate...even though I tightened both screws the bar slipped and I ended up with a pinwheel shape

1. It is a problem but if you want dust collection you have to have the p[lastic shield in place. Bill E. pointed out that if you wipe the plastic shield with a fabric softener cloth you can at least reduce the dust that sticks to the plastic so you can see a little better.

2. You need to loosen the blade guide blocks.

3. You need a better tool for tightening the screws and/or there was so much vibration in the cutting that it shook the screws loose. How was the quality of the cut? Which blade and speed did you use? Cutting 5/8" Lexan is a bit tricky anyway.  I would probably choose to rough cut with the jigsaw and finish with a router if I needed a clean or radiused edge.

 

[Michael Kellough]

3. You need a better tool for tightening the screws

I just realized that these are thumb screws, sorry about that.  :-\

 

[John Langevin]

1. The thumbscrews were hand-tight (I didn't use pliers on them).
2. The blade guide was set to allow slight side to side play (I planned to rout a radius edge after cutting).
3. I tried different speeds from 1 to 3, the blade (I think) was 10 t.p.i. The finished cut was fairly rough.
4. I ended up cutting the circle (in multiple passes) with the OF1010. with a Festool 8mm straight bit at a speed of 3.
    the finish was less than optimal, the material came off in visibly sized flakes.
5. I finished with a 1/4" roundover bit and then lightly sanded to remove the toolmarks.

I'm thinking wrong blade (need more t.p.i.?) and wrong speed the material melted a bit here and there (slower speed)?
Do I need to grind conical points on the clamping screws so they "bite" into the guide (leaving raised edge dimples)?
As for the router - different style of bit, climb milling, slower speed (such as 1 or 2) any or all of these?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
John Langevin

 

[Ned]

4. I ended up cutting the circle (in multiple passes) with the OF1010. with a Festool 8mm straight bit at a speed of 3.
    the finish was less than optimal, the material came off in visibly sized flakes.

John, you might want to look at a router bit for plastic.  The folks at Carbide.com list a couple of dozen different Amana and Onsrud bits.  The bit would probably cost around US$20.  Call them and ask for recommendations, including speed--they've been very helpful in the past.

BTW, the MFS is a great circle-cutting jig for your router.

Ned

 

[John Langevin]

Thanks Ned, I will check them out. I forgot to mention but I did end up using the MFS, it worked ok but I think need to make a couple of rail stops to contain the bushing block, is that how you do it?

 

[Ned]

...need to make a couple of rail stops to contain the bushing block,...

I use the MFS for circles by creating a narrow rectangle, a sliding fit for the block the router ring fits in.  Slide the pivot into one of the narrow ends.  Tighten the block in place with its setscrew.  Done.  All standard parts in both MFS kits. 

[puzzled]  I have no idea what these "rail stops" would be or would do.  How would you use them?  Are you trying to use a single extrusion rather than making a rectangle?

Ned

 

[Dan Clark]

...need to make a couple of rail stops to contain the bushing block,...

I use the MFS for circles by creating a narrow rectangle, a sliding fit for the block the router ring fits in.  Slide the pivot into one of the narrow ends.  Tighten the block in place with its setscrew.  Done.  All standard parts in both MFS kits. 

[puzzled]  I have no idea what these "rail stops" would be or would do.  How would you use them?  Are you trying to use a single extrusion rather than making a rectangle?

Ned

Ned,

I'm interested in the MFS and need a circle cutting jig.  This might do the trick, but I can't envison it.  Can you post a pic or two of your setup?

Thanks,

Dan.

 

[John Langevin]

Ned what do you use for the pivot point? I used a MFS L-bracket fastened to the MFS rail and the Pivot pin from the jigsaw trammel unit, it worked ok but was not optimal. I tried first just using one MFS rail and quickly found that the bushing block for the router wasn't secure. Then I added a second long rail to constrain the block from coming off the rail and then finally added the other two rails to constrain the block in the long (circle radii axis). This worked satisfactorily but as you can imagine it produced a very cumbersome jig. Jerry any thoughts?

 

[Brice Burrell]

Pics please, I can't picture the setup at all.

 

[Ned]

Pics please, I can't picture the setup at all.

Done.

See MFS:  Notes on the MFS, at the end of the first post.

Ned

 

[Brice Burrell]

Pics please, I can't picture the setup at all.

Done.

See MFS:  Notes on the MFS, at the end of the first post.

Ned

Thanks Ned.

 

[John Langevin]

Ned, my thanks also. I had completely forgotten your earlier very informative post. I will give it another try.