Jin Di Sugi Cypress BGE Cart
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iamnothim
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Cheese
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Holmz said:
[member=40772]Holmz[/member] , you need a rosebud style torch. That way you're heating a large area as opposed to heating a very narrow area. You want to evenly char the wood as opposed to incinerating it. [eek] The wide torch hood is the tip off.
iamnothim
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I've used the MFS400 circle guide long enough to not make the same mistake. But Noooooo.
I started /ended the circle in the most visible place on the counter top. Right up front. As I was approaching the end I kept saying..... don't screw it up when the piece drops... don't....don't. Naturally I angered to the outside.
I'll figure something out. Yet another example of what separates the true craftsmen from the posers.
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[attachimg=2]
I started /ended the circle in the most visible place on the counter top. Right up front. As I was approaching the end I kept saying..... don't screw it up when the piece drops... don't....don't. Naturally I angered to the outside.
I'll figure something out. Yet another example of what separates the true craftsmen from the posers.
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
Attachments
[member=28483]iamnothim[/member] Very nice Luke.
[member=44099]Cheese[/member] I have seen this one used.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lincoln-...gclid=CK7c3Pnnr80CFZSCaQodqKcFiQ&gclsrc=aw.ds
[member=44099]Cheese[/member] I have seen this one used.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lincoln-...gclid=CK7c3Pnnr80CFZSCaQodqKcFiQ&gclsrc=aw.ds
Cheese
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rvieceli said:
[member=3192]rvieceli[/member]
Hey Ron,
That's very similar to the one I used on a torch-down roof that I helped my friend install on his commercial building. It's also pretty inexpensive...I think I paid at least that much just for the rosebud tip for my oxy/acetylene unit.
iamnothim
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Update.
This project is taking far more time than I ever anticipated. You would think I was replicating Falling Water.
However I'm learning some stuff.
Jin Di Sugi.
You must laminate the planks as the force of heat cracks and cups 4/4 cypress in a minute. For the box that supports the egg I built a box from 3/4" plywood, than I domino'd the cypress planks together as bonded the shell to the plywood box. I used about 20 screws. This worked much better when the torch was applied.
Finishing the Cypress. At first I was going with Sikkens Cetol 23. I got the product and read the MDS. (Should have done this before ordering) First I didn't think I was getting a "stain" because I ordered "natural". Next they wanted all new wood washed and coated with Cetor 1 RE. Next they had a section about woods with tannins and oils.
"NOTE: Tannin containing woods such as redwood, red cedar, mahogany,
douglas fir, etc. contain tannic acid which tends to migrate to the surface
and discolor the stain, especially noticeable when using white or light
colors. The discoloration is not harmful and can usually be removed. Apply
a cleaning solution of four (4) ounces of oxalic acid to one gallon of warm
water using a garden sprayer or a heavy nap roller cover. Allow solution to
dwell on surface for 20 minutes then thoroughly rise with clean water. DO
NOT ALLOW solution to dry on wood surface."
I got an RMA and shipped it back...unopened.
After further research I landed on Wood Kote Flagship Ultra 250. It too is a poly and the MDS had nothing about oily woods and cleaning. I picked some up in a Matte Finish and did something I never do. I put it on a test piece. The Sugi pieces turned out great. The raw pieces remained after two days. Wood Kote is in Portland OR. Their tech support said "Oh the old in the wood Probably reacted with the drying agent" "We can't test every species" Probably tough to get pine, cedar, redwood, and cypress in the Pacific Northwest. Wood Kote states one of the application for Ultra Flagship 250 is outdoor furniture......
Back to Google. I found a couple of posts about top coating cypress. The usual suggestions...... spar varnish, tung oil. Then a couple
that just sounded like the knew their stuff. "The best finish for cypress, is no finish at all". It'll turn gray but you don't have to strip and re-coat every couple years.
After being around the wood, cutting, sanding, feeling the saw dust, I decided that I like this approach. No finish.
EXCEPT For the top.
John Boos Butcher Block Board Cream
John Boos MYSB Mystery Butcher Block Oil, 16 ounces
The wood on top is right next to the granite so "what the heck"
Here's a shot of the egg support box. It will have a chunk of granite for the egg and a 20" drawer.
All the Sugi wood has one coat of Ultra Flagship Matte (still wet). Normally I'd spray but I want the K-wrap on anything in the shop. Not to mention the Sugi 'd wood will hardly show brush marks.
If anyone tries out Sugi wood (even samples). Please post photos.
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
This project is taking far more time than I ever anticipated. You would think I was replicating Falling Water.
However I'm learning some stuff.
Jin Di Sugi.
You must laminate the planks as the force of heat cracks and cups 4/4 cypress in a minute. For the box that supports the egg I built a box from 3/4" plywood, than I domino'd the cypress planks together as bonded the shell to the plywood box. I used about 20 screws. This worked much better when the torch was applied.
Finishing the Cypress. At first I was going with Sikkens Cetol 23. I got the product and read the MDS. (Should have done this before ordering) First I didn't think I was getting a "stain" because I ordered "natural". Next they wanted all new wood washed and coated with Cetor 1 RE. Next they had a section about woods with tannins and oils.
"NOTE: Tannin containing woods such as redwood, red cedar, mahogany,
douglas fir, etc. contain tannic acid which tends to migrate to the surface
and discolor the stain, especially noticeable when using white or light
colors. The discoloration is not harmful and can usually be removed. Apply
a cleaning solution of four (4) ounces of oxalic acid to one gallon of warm
water using a garden sprayer or a heavy nap roller cover. Allow solution to
dwell on surface for 20 minutes then thoroughly rise with clean water. DO
NOT ALLOW solution to dry on wood surface."
I got an RMA and shipped it back...unopened.
After further research I landed on Wood Kote Flagship Ultra 250. It too is a poly and the MDS had nothing about oily woods and cleaning. I picked some up in a Matte Finish and did something I never do. I put it on a test piece. The Sugi pieces turned out great. The raw pieces remained after two days. Wood Kote is in Portland OR. Their tech support said "Oh the old in the wood Probably reacted with the drying agent" "We can't test every species" Probably tough to get pine, cedar, redwood, and cypress in the Pacific Northwest. Wood Kote states one of the application for Ultra Flagship 250 is outdoor furniture......
Back to Google. I found a couple of posts about top coating cypress. The usual suggestions...... spar varnish, tung oil. Then a couple
that just sounded like the knew their stuff. "The best finish for cypress, is no finish at all". It'll turn gray but you don't have to strip and re-coat every couple years.
After being around the wood, cutting, sanding, feeling the saw dust, I decided that I like this approach. No finish.
EXCEPT For the top.
John Boos Butcher Block Board Cream
John Boos MYSB Mystery Butcher Block Oil, 16 ounces
The wood on top is right next to the granite so "what the heck"
Here's a shot of the egg support box. It will have a chunk of granite for the egg and a 20" drawer.
All the Sugi wood has one coat of Ultra Flagship Matte (still wet). Normally I'd spray but I want the K-wrap on anything in the shop. Not to mention the Sugi 'd wood will hardly show brush marks.
If anyone tries out Sugi wood (even samples). Please post photos.
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
Attachments
First website stop for you guys is bbqpitboys.com (and their youtube channel). It's like watching ZZ Top do bbq! Their recipes are simple, do-able and the videos are entertaining. And as they say, it smells gu-u-u-d!!
I actually have two Kamado cookers, neither of which is a BGE. One is a Bayou Classic Cypress, was for sale for a few years at Lowe's. It's a good unit, but it's no BGE. But I couldn't be satisfied with just one, so I also have a Bubba Keg, which is a steel Kamado. Much more efficient than the Bayou Classic. Renamed Big Steel Keg and now the Broil King Keg. I kinda like the original name.
Why two? Because I can. And I do use them, many times I've got both fired up.
I've been at it for at least six years, was a rookie when I started and have pretty much gotten to expert status these days.
OK, back to woodworking.
Nice job on the cart, btw!
-Dom
(No carts for mine, they both came with stands. I can even tailgate with the Bubba Keg if I needed to.)
I actually have two Kamado cookers, neither of which is a BGE. One is a Bayou Classic Cypress, was for sale for a few years at Lowe's. It's a good unit, but it's no BGE. But I couldn't be satisfied with just one, so I also have a Bubba Keg, which is a steel Kamado. Much more efficient than the Bayou Classic. Renamed Big Steel Keg and now the Broil King Keg. I kinda like the original name.
Why two? Because I can. And I do use them, many times I've got both fired up.
I've been at it for at least six years, was a rookie when I started and have pretty much gotten to expert status these days.
OK, back to woodworking.
Nice job on the cart, btw!
-Dom
(No carts for mine, they both came with stands. I can even tailgate with the Bubba Keg if I needed to.)
iamnothim
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lunchman said:
I took the safe route getting the green one. I looked at others (Costco... Joe...) and liked some of their features but decided to go green. It hasn't let me down with power tools.
I'm lucky to have a friend/neighbor that has a 9' stick burner. He's been tutoring me on brisket trimming and the like.
leakyroof
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. I've had our BGE since 2009. I opted for the nest , and modified my nest with 5" casters versus the stock 4" casters. The Egg rolls easier with the larger wheels for me.Jim Kirkpatrick said:
The Egg will turn or rotate inside the nest frame eventually on you if you move your BGE often , but it's easy enough to turn the Egg back where you want it.
I recommend the lipped ash collecting dust pan that BGE sells as an accessory . Might seem unneeded , but that curled lip on the edge of the dust pan is designed to neatly fit into the sliding access hole for ash removal .
This means you can keep the pan locked into your Egg , scoop out your ash from inside the Egg and not spill that ash all over the place doing it. Simple but effective .
I keep a factory cover over my Large Egg. This keeps the rusting on the top Cast Iron venting cap of the Egg to a minimum. I also add Camellia Oil lightly to that same Cast Iron piece to help prevent rust as well.
There is no other piece on the Egg or the steel Nest that I have to pay attention to with regards to rust.
Wooden Skye
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lunchman said:
Thanks for posting this website. They have some awesome recipes.
[member=28483]iamnothim[/member] Luke the cart is looking great. Can't wait to see it with the BGE!