Jointing with HL 850

[SPM in King]

Has anyone used an HL 850 for jointing long/thick hardwoods?  I currently cut 2-3" thick slabs and joint by hand anywhere from 6 to 11 feet.  Because the boards are so heavy, I would like to get really close with something like the 850 before I pull out the big hand plane.  I can't get 100 - 200 lb. boards on the jointer.  I would think the 850 would need some sort of bed extension and 90 degree fence. 

If someone has solved this or if there are "off the shelf" components that I have missed, please reply.

Thanks, Steve.

 

[semenza]

Hi,

  If this is to join them edge to edge then you might try that TS75 and split the kerf between two boards.

    http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-how-to/edge-jointing-a-countertop-with-the-ts75-(or-ts55)/msg286728/#msg286728

Seth

 

[Brent Taylor]

I had a Makita 1100 planer with an edge guide that worked well and Festool's planer has a similar fence available also, if you are looking to joint that size of timber.  Mine worked well for the smaller materials  ( under 3 1/4" , had a KPMG for the larger stuff  under 12") 

 

[Birdhunter]

I have the HL850 and the right angle guide. It's a great tool, but I think not ideal for the job you describe.

I would follow Seth's suggestion to use a track saw.

Question, how do you move boards that weigh 200 pound boards?

 

[Gwerner]

Hi,

  If this is to join them edge to edge then you might try that TS75 and split the kerf between two boards.

    http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-how-to/edge-jointing-a-countertop-with-the-ts75-(or-ts55)/msg286728/#msg286728

Seth

Holy crap, that's brilliant  [eek]! Thank you, I'm going to give this a go this weekend.

 

[SPM in King]

OK, interesting post.  I have a TS 75, so it's worth a try.  I am not hopeful, though.  Any variation is amplified by the thickness of the boards.  3/4" vs. 2 1/4" is a major difference.  I even thought of buying a 4" jointer and using it on a sled of some sort.  This is why the 850 would be ideal.  It just needs a long shoe.

I move all the boards with hoists.  So, each time I try to fit the pieces together, I strap and hoist the board into position.  The last joint I did took 2 days!  Crazy, but they must be perfect.  The top weighed in at 350lbs when complete.   

Thanks for your input...more to come.

Steve.

 

[semenza]

OK, interesting post.  I have a TS 75, so it's worth a try.  I am not hopeful, though.  Any variation is amplified by the thickness of the boards.  3/4" vs. 2 1/4" is a major difference. I even thought of buying a 4" jointer and using it on a sled of some sort.  This is why the 850 would be ideal.  It just needs a long shoe.

I move all the boards with hoists.  So, each time I try to fit the pieces together, I strap and hoist the board into position.  The last joint I did took 2 days!  Crazy, but they must be perfect.  The top weighed in at 350lbs when complete.   

Thanks for your input...more to come.

Steve.

      I was jointing one and three quarter inch (1 3/4")  thick boards in that other topic. A variation would be amplified but the trick is that it doesn't matter since the kerf is split between the two boards (one cut, half on each board) Any variation is automatically matched on the two boards. Which it might not be if making a separate jointing cut on each board edge.

    One other thing ..... you need to decide which edges will be joined before jointing using the saw method and stick to it. Since this method does not rely on getting perfectly square edges rearranging them after might (probably will) create mismatched joints. Although with 200 pound boards I am thinking that the arrangement is pretty well decided before hand.

  I reread my other topic and would like to add this additional note. Once in a while it takes two jointing passes to get a good result. This is usually due to needing to take more than one kerf width to bring the boards together. In other words there is a bend from end to end of the board that creates a gap between them of more than the blade thickness. If that is the case just make a jointing cut, move then closer and repeat.

Seth

 

[mo siopa]

OK, interesting post.  I have a TS 75, so it's worth a try.  I am not hopeful, though.  Any variation is amplified by the thickness of the boards.  3/4" vs. 2 1/4" is a major difference.  I even thought of buying a 4" jointer and using it on a sled of some sort.  This is why the 850 would be ideal.  It just needs a long shoe.

I move all the boards with hoists.  So, each time I try to fit the pieces together, I strap and hoist the board into position.  The last joint I did took 2 days!  Crazy, but they must be perfect.  The top weighed in at 350lbs when complete.   

Thanks for your input...more to come.

Steve.

A TS 75 used in conjunction with a guide rail will give you a better edge than any joiner.  All of the wood panel/component manufacturers that I have dealt with allow a maximum of one edge from a joiner- the other edge, or both edges, coming from a straight-line rip saw.  The TS 75 is as close to a SLRS as you can get.  Even the best joiner will burnish the edge somewhat.  You will get better glue penetration from a clean sawn edge.  Also, a guide rail will maintain a "true edge" for nearly the full length (you will lose some accuracy at both ends as the saw's base is not fully engaged).  You can't maintain a "true" edge on joiner more than the length (or really half the length) of its bed.

 

[SPM in King]

Seth, beers are in order! 

Ripped 2 boards for a 2" thick top and put them close (1/16") together.  Changed blades to the fine one and took a pass.  Moved the track a hair, pushed them a little closer and took another pass.  No need to clamp...they are 75-100 lbs each.  All in, less than an hour!

So, you made me a believer.  This will save me countless hours. 

Next time you are in the Toronto area, PM me, I owe you big time. 

Thanks, Steve.

 

[semenza]

Really glad that it worked out so well for you!  [thumbs up] It is surprising what a good job it does isn't it?

I can't take credit for the original idea though.

Seth