just bought the mft table the 1080; would you buy the little clamps

[honeydoman]

I just bought the mft table and I am deciding weather to buy the little clamps that fit on the table to hold stuff tight etc.  do you use them a lot?  I make custom bookcase units etc.

also any tips of how to use the table for more things?

 

[dirtydeeds]

for vertical hold down the FSZ 300's (489 571) are much easier and much quicker than the FSZ 120s

the MFT-SP clamps (488 030) are usefull on occasions, i just dont seem to get the work that needs them

i havent got the klick klamps so cant say

most of my work is site carpentry the mft is my workbench, it gets taken everywhere and is used for everything

ive given it a new top 3 times in 3 years, i dont bother with all the holes i just drill them when and where i need them

 

[Qwas]

The clamps will be handy to have. You would be missing one of the main features (the holes) of the table without them.

You will find the clamping elements are great for hold boards while sanding.

 

[honeydoman]

hey thanks,  I think I will go to woodcraft tomorrow and spend some more bucks on the clamps.  I also will be using the table for fluting the sides 1x3 and also the adjustable holes for bookcase set up from ft that I have been using on my 4x8 sheet of mdf table. so I am looking forward to using the mft table with it,

 

[Corwin]

There are threads here that go on and on about the various clamps you can use with your MFT.  The Festool clamps all work very well with the MFT.  As for other brands/types, some work better than others.  For starters, I would suggest getting 2 or 4 of the FSZ 120 Clamps, or maybe 2 or the 120's and 2 of the FSZ 300 clamps.  The Clamping Elements (despite their price) are extremely handy and should be considered -- I consider them a 'must have' item for the MFT.

 

[Daviddubya]

I pretty much agree with what has been said, however I find the FSZ300 clamps will do everything the FSZ120 clamps will do and more.  I have both, and the shorter clamps are sometimes too short, while the longer clamps don't get in the way.  So I'd recommend FSZ300 clamps - at least 2 sets of 2.  Also, as Corwin said, the Clamping Elements, MFT-SP, are great for sanding as well as horizontal clamping.

 

[rblaustein]

Here's a useful link to one of John Lucas's pages where he discusses clamps for the MFT:http://www.woodshopdemos.com/fest-18.htm

If you haven't already, check out his site--lots of great info.

I agree with what others have said, and also like the Jorgensen hold-down clamps that John mentions in the above link.

 

[gkeas]

hey thanks,  I think I will go to woodcraft tomorrow and spend some more bucks on the clamps.  I also will be using the table for fluting the sides 1x3 and also the adjustable holes for bookcase set up from ft that I have been using on my 4x8 sheet of mdf table. so I am looking forward to using the mft table with it,

while you're at woodcraft, I recommend picking up a pair of these.  I love mine (got 'em for Christmas) and I use them a LOT.
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=20246

These are like the Jorgensens, but $9 for 2, you cant beat it.

 

[brandon.nickel]

I agree that the clamping elements are invaluable for sanding.  You can batch a whole pile of 3/4" boards together on the MFT using just a single set of clamping elements.  They do get in the way if you're sanding something thinner than 3/4", but for that size they're just low enough to be out of the way.  Mine no longer say Festool though.  And you can never have enough/too many of the regular clamps.  I don't own the click-style clamps as they're just too expensive to be worth it to me.

 

[Eli]

The lever clamps and the clamping elements get the most use in my shop. I have both sizes of screw clamp but they usually stay hanging up. The lever clamps are worth the money.

 

[Tinker]

I have sets of all 4 Festool clamps.  The flat sliding clamping elements, as others have mentioned, do get in the way when clamping to sand work thinner than 3/4" thick.  What i do is lay a thin flat piece at each side of such a piece, and clamp to that.  The problem with that is that a tenting effect ocurrs with that proceedure.  The three pieces (the one being sanded and the two pieces either side of that) will rise up off of the table.  To counteract that pesky little problem, i cut the "shim" pieces long enough that i can clamp them flat while applying side pressure to the elements.  I mentioned this proceedure as a sanding proceedure.  It works also for sawing and routing if need be.

The most used clamps in my shop are (including every type of clamp i have and considering every use of clamps) are those "undersized" 120mm screw type clamps.  I don't think i could survive without them. (Oh, i guess i would manage somehow  )  The longer 300mm's get used, but it is not often I find the need for them.  The "clicking" clamps are probably second in use to the 120's.  When they are needed, they are the very best for the purpose.  there are times, tho, that the green lever gets in the way.

I have tried those flat screw type clamps (LeeValley, I think) that John Lucas likes.  They do have very great advantages in some situations.  i currently have two of them, and will eventually get a couple more.  they are a pain to work with out in the middle of the MFT table.  Any time they can be used along the edge with the haldle out in space, they are great.

Another set of clamps that i use to a great extent are a set of WorkMate hold down type clamps.  you place a plastic bushing int the MFT holes (same as they are used with the WM) and then just drop the tail of the clamp into the bushing, keeping the handle raised.  When the clamp is in place, you just drop/push down the handle and voila! the piece will not move.  I use those two clamps as much on the MFT tables as I do the ratcheting Festool clamps.  They are very handy and the handles don't get in the way like with the ratcheting and the Festool clamping elements. They also have a slightly better reach ( 1"  or a little more) than the Festool clamps

The main problem you will find once you clutter up your shop with an MFT is that you will find yourself hopelessly entwined on the SS (since you are new, that is Slippery Slope), never to return to a normal life.  You will find so many ways to clamp to that table and so many clamps designed to satisfy your needs, you will be absolutely helpless. You will end up buying more and more clamps to be used with that/those tables you will be broken of pocketbook and spitit.  there will be no hope for you. I would be very happy, extremely happy  ;D : to take the MFT table off your hands to save you from further psychological pain.  8) :
Tinker

 

[Brice Burrell]

Kreg, we have also talked about using the Jet parallel jaw clamps and the Kreg clamp with the MFT. Jet clamp thread, Kreg thread 1 and Kreg thread 2.

  Here's a quick tip for using the Festool clamps from under the table with soft woods. I've had the clamps dent or mar soft woods so I cut short pieces of vinyl tubing to offer a little protection.

 

[honeydoman]

: Hey thanks for all the imput, I just got back from the woodcraft store and bought the clamps you all have talked about.  the mft-sp and the other hold down clamps for 8.99 and they work great.

I already had several of the 120 and the 300.  can't wait to start on my next project tomorrow and put the table to many uses.  including fluting, bookshelf holes with the router jig etc. :

 

[Dave Ronyak]

The lever clamps and the clamping elements get the most use in my shop. I have both sizes of screw clamp but they usually stay hanging up. The lever clamps are worth the money.
/quote]

The lever clamps come closest to being able to be used with only one hand.  They also seem to better resist coming lose from vibrations such as those induced by use of some of the power tools, e.g. a jigsaw.  They also have a larger pad which engages the workpiece, so they are arguably better for delicate workpieces.

Dave R.

 

[CharlesWilson]

I recently added two of the FS-HZ 160 quick clamps to my shop, and really wish I had done so sooner.  When doing an operation on a large number pieces, they can't be beat.

I have also discovered that those Jorgensen 6" and 12" bar clamps (which can be converted into spreaders, also) can be taken apart, and re-assembled through one of the holes in the MFT so that they can operate like the quick clamps. They are quick for clamping and unclamping in that configuration, but take a little time to move from one hole to another. So, if you don't have the quick clamps, you might give that a try. I go the 6" ones at Coastal Tool for about 12.95 a couple of years ago, and they seem to have held up pretty well.

Charles

 

[Greg B]

Apropos of nothing whatsoever, has anyone been able to divine why the FS HZ-160s have an end profile that is ziggurat shaped and the 120s and 300s have a flat tip? I'd always thought the quick clamps a little odd, in that respect. Inquiring minds want to know.

GB

 

[Ned]

The lever clamps and the clamping elements get the most use in my shop. I have both sizes of screw clamp but they usually stay hanging up. The lever clamps are worth the money.

The lever clamps come closest to being able to be used with only one hand.  They also seem to better resist coming lose from vibrations such as those induced by use of some of the power tools, e.g. a jigsaw.  They also have a larger pad which engages the workpiece, so they are arguably better for delicate workpieces.

Dave R.

I agree with Eli and Dave R.  I've got all styles of Festool clamps.  The lever clamps are always the first ones I grab if they'll work.  They are worth the money for a pair.  I'm not sure you need more than two--after those are in place the screw clamps can be added if you need to.

Apropos of nothing whatsoever, has anyone been able to divine why the FS HZ-160s have an end profile that is ziggurat shaped and the 120s and 300s have a flat tip? I'd always thought the quick clamps a little odd, in that respect. Inquiring minds want to know.

Greg, I assume you're talking about the cross section of the L-shaped piece of steel.  Ziggurat-shaped?  All of my clamps, lever or screw, have the same shape L, or at least as alike as unmachined surfaces are likely to be.  Can you show us what you mean?

Ned

 

[Eli]

Not the shape of the L, but a cross section of the leg. Screw clamps are flat both sides, lever clamp has a raised ridge one side.

 

[Ned]

Not the shape of the L, but a cross section of the leg. Screw clamps are flat both sides, lever clamp has a raised ridge one side.

Meaning the metal part that slides on the L?  I need to see a pic and an arrow, guys.  Either mine are different or I'm not getting it.

OTOH, it's nice to know that other people ask these sorts of questions..thought it was just me.

Ned

 

[Dave Ronyak]

Ned et al.,

I have 3 Quick clamps FS-HZ 160 mm (#491 594), 2 FSZ 120 mm (#489 570) and 2 FSZ 300 mm.  Recently I discovered that the "foot" of all of these types of Festool clamps also fit the grooves of my JoinTech aluminum fence!  They don't fit Kreg's clamping table track, though.

Dave R.