Just set up my new MFT/3 and the TS 55

[Mike Espo]

[unsure]

  Hi everyone, New to this forum and  a new owner of the MFT/3 and the TS 55 Saw.  Now that I think I am ready to go I have a question, I am making a butcher block out of 2" thick wood.  The pieces are maybe 24 - 30 inches long. Now I have to cut the material to size which is 2 1/2 " and down to maybe 1 1/2".don't have the plans in 

front of me but you get the idea.  How do I make sure my cut will be straight?  should I just score the wood and set the guide rail on that mark or is there an easier and better way to do this with my new toy?

Thanks everyone for helping this newbie,,

Mike

 

[semenza]

Hi Mike,

Welcome to the FOG!  [smile]

Do you mean ripping the stock to 1 1/2" wide pieces?

The cut will be straight because of the guide rail.  If you mark  consistently and accurately. set the rail coonsistently and acurately you should be good to go.  Marking gauge, marking T _ Square or make a gauge block to mark with.

Do you have a planer  or other thicknesser ?

If you are starting with 2 1/2" wide pieces you will want to back the piece up  with another  one or two of the same  under the rail  to keep it stable while making the cut.  Also maybe you would do better material wise to split the 2 1/2" down the middle and get two usable pieces out of each instead of one.

Seth

 

[TomGadwa1]

There are many ways to do this. I would recommend using some type of jig that could be clamped to the MFT. Set up your guide rail and cut the splinter guard per the instructions that come with the TS55. Now there should be a straight groove cut into the MFT top. Note that the groove should not be too deep as the aluminum extrusions can be damaged as a result. Once this cutline has been established the jig can be clamped to the table parallel to the cutline on the MFT. Using an accurate measuring tool align your jig piece to the cutline and set the desired distance that you need to cut. Make certain the jig piece is clamped very firmly to the MFT. Now place the stock under the rail and set it tight to the jig. If you can go ahead and clamp the feed side of the stock to stabilize it. This method will yield quite accurate and repeatable cuts.

 

[TomGadwa1]

To help clarify my words I have included some pictures
[attachimg=#1]
The desired width setting of the piece to be cut.
[attachimg=#2]
Near side measurement point to the jig.
[attachimg=#3]
Near side measurement point to the jig showing quick clamp holding in place.
[attachimg=#4]
Far side measurement point to the jig.
[attachimg=#5]
Far side measurement point to the jig showing quick clamp holding and domino stop to keep off cut from flying forward off the MFT!
[attachimg=#6]
View of stock butted up to domino stop and set tight against the jig ready for cutting.
[attachimg=#7]
Rail down, stock is clamped on feed side and we are ready to cut some accurate and repeatable sized pieces for the project.

If the short side of the MFT can not accommodate the length needed then use longer rail and reorient the rail holder and support on the short extrusions. Good luck with the cutting board and I hope this does not confuse too much!

 

[Mike Espo]

???

Thanks Seth for the welcome and the advise.  I have the Jet drum sander and the rigid Jointer.  Please beer with me, The wood comes in 3 pieces, All about 21" L, 1 3/4 T, W's 3 3/4, 4 3/4 and 7 7/8".  Since I don't have spare stock at the moment lying around my small shop I will have to use these 3 piece's to stabilize the guide rail..  Something has to square the piece's on the table so when I lay the rail on top of these 3 piece's of stock I know the rail is straight, ?

Mike

sorry for the pun, couldn't resist

 

[Mike Espo]

Thanks Tom, the pictures were great.  I think I know what your saying? use the table top and some stock and make a straight edge and use that as my focus?

 

[TomGadwa1]

Correct! You can use your TS55 and guide rail to cut your straight edge on your jig. Then set a domino into the far end of the jig. One can also be placed on the near end too. Time to make this jig is about five minutes. Usually it can be made from offcuts that are laying about. As you can see in the pictures the precision of the cuts is related to measuring from the kerf line that is in the MFT. That is cast in stone. Stabilizing the feed side of the stock via clamping to the MFT will guarantee accuracy of cuts.

 

[Kodi Crescent]

I may be speaking out of turn here, but isn't constraining that off cut side dangerous?  I thought it caused kickback or some other thing.

 

[TomGadwa1]

Not really. Remember that the rotation of the saw blade would if anything kick the off cut away from the operator. However this is prevented by the far side domino. I have cut more than 30 pieces of 1/2 inch banding using this method and had absolutely no kickback issues. Just be certain that what you are cutting will have enough material on the feed side for a stable cut.

 

[johnrichardson]

Here's a good way to add an extra fence on the offcut side of MDT 3
Very useful whe[attachimg=#]n

trying to align smaller workpieces dear admi. How the f
Do u attach a photo please make it simple bah. Any way ill try and explain just get a piece of straight batten line it up with the MfT 3 fen.  ce      then clamp it in position on offcut side a photo wood be good I have one but
They've got a way out of date way of uploading take some tips from apps available like facebook etc isn't it about time the fog gp had an easy to use app bah bah