Kapex 120 accuracy
- Thread starter Pooman
- Start date
Cheese
Member
Well I was curious so I went downstairs to check it out. My Kapex works just fine and always returns to the same position. My Kapex is also quite stiff so "swing" may not be the operative word. In my case it's more like unlock and then using some substantial amount of force, pull or push the turntable into position.
I did notice though that if I didn't manually lock the turntable into position, that I could flex it maybe 1/8º to 1/4º. However I always lock the turntable so it's not an issue for me. [smile]
I did notice though that if I didn't manually lock the turntable into position, that I could flex it maybe 1/8º to 1/4º. However I always lock the turntable so it's not an issue for me. [smile]
I've not noticed any cutting inaccuracy in my work since fine-tuning the saw a few years ago. I almost always check the first cross cut for squareness if I am doing a batch of them. I made a couple of hundred cross cuts in my last project (two months ago), but did not notice any abnormality. I will pay attention to my next first cuts, just to be sure.
Locking the turn table doesn't automatically bring the saw to zero. If the turn table is swung back to zero and overshoots by say a 1/4 degree Locking the turn table locks it in the position it was stopped at. A 1/4 degree off of 90. An analogy of this overshooting zero and locking it. Imagine pulling your car into an inclined driveway. You put the brakes on to hold you in position. Keep your foot on the brake and apply the emergency brake also. Let your foot off the foot brake and the car won't roll at all because the emergency brake is holding it. Put the car/truck transmission in park/gear. Now let off the emergency brake and the car will roll ahead slightly until the transmission Park gears tighten up and takes up the backlash. This is not a perfect analogy but I think it gets the point across.
You should lock your saw at even the detents. I would bet that would probably have handled what you observed.
Peter
Peter
...And before I get the argument "...but we shouldn't have to..." check page 12 of the Supplemental Manual which talks about how to miter.
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Peter
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Peter
I beg to differ Peter. Ive been a professional carpenter and timber framer for 35 years. Most guys aren't locking there saw down every cut. I can see it on occassion to lock it it but its not the norm when your in the construction business.
Lets get down to brass taxes. When the saw is swung back it goes past the zero as said earlier. locking it down just locks it in that position. It doesn't force it back to zero. Why is this so hard to understand.
Theres a small tab under the table that drops down into the detent when you release the button. Bottom line is its flimsy and so is the detent plate. Further more the tab scrapes along the detent plate on saws making it tough to swing into position. Go try a new Dewalt or Milwaukee. They are rock solid and more robust. The most important part off any saws are the repeatability and accuracy. Bells and whistles don't mean ***t if its not accurate. Especially at that price.
Imagine what kind off saw Dewalt, Milwaukee , or Makita could produce for $2000. It would likely be outstanding. The Kapex just isn't worth this kind of money. They do have some great tools but this one in MHO is not worth it.
Lets get down to brass taxes. When the saw is swung back it goes past the zero as said earlier. locking it down just locks it in that position. It doesn't force it back to zero. Why is this so hard to understand.
Theres a small tab under the table that drops down into the detent when you release the button. Bottom line is its flimsy and so is the detent plate. Further more the tab scrapes along the detent plate on saws making it tough to swing into position. Go try a new Dewalt or Milwaukee. They are rock solid and more robust. The most important part off any saws are the repeatability and accuracy. Bells and whistles don't mean ***t if its not accurate. Especially at that price.
Imagine what kind off saw Dewalt, Milwaukee , or Makita could produce for $2000. It would likely be outstanding. The Kapex just isn't worth this kind of money. They do have some great tools but this one in MHO is not worth it.
I passed on what was in the supplemental manual.
Based on your posts, and being honest, I don't think that the Kapex is a good fit for you.
Peter
Based on your posts, and being honest, I don't think that the Kapex is a good fit for you.
Peter
Based on my fine-tuning experience, I wouldn't try to do anything to that detent tab or notch on the miter gauge, as most likely, one will make it (any inaccuracy) worse, and there is also a risk that the fine-tuning can never be successfully done as per the manual unless the miter gauge is replaced.
There is no question that not all KS 120s are produced and put together exactly the same, because so many things (including the laser settings) are done manually. Even with the QA in place (which is not bullet-proof as we all know), each machine must come out the factory with one or more slight differences, and that is why we have tolerance level.
Perhaps the observations brought out by Pooman can be related to the KS120 people for further investigation.
There is no question that not all KS 120s are produced and put together exactly the same, because so many things (including the laser settings) are done manually. Even with the QA in place (which is not bullet-proof as we all know), each machine must come out the factory with one or more slight differences, and that is why we have tolerance level.
Perhaps the observations brought out by Pooman can be related to the KS120 people for further investigation.
[member=15585]Svar[/member], I assume you have a Kapex. If you swing your table to a tad past a detent and then lock it. What does it do? It registers. THAT has been a complaint with the Kapex since the beginning. It is terribly difficult to set it just off to one side of the detents and then do what Festool recommends which is locking your table in position.
It normally takes two hands and patience to set something just outside of the detents. This not just me, it has been documented here since the first Kapex.
Just observations over the years.
Peter
It normally takes two hands and patience to set something just outside of the detents. This not just me, it has been documented here since the first Kapex.
Just observations over the years.
Peter
Bohdan
Member
Svar said:
I think that the fit is fine. It's just that the tab either bends or moves with use.
I will have to pull mine apart to see if the tab can be fixed but at the moment it's over 100°F and blowing a gale.
Not the sort of weather that I want to venture far from the AC.
To stop at one of the PRESET POSITIVE LOCK MITER POSTIONS, release the miter stop lever just before reaching the angle, and the miter stop will click as it LOCKS INTO POSITION.
► To set the miter angle to 1⁄2 degree between the primary angles, line up the 1⁄2° vernier indices with the adjacent angle index marks. (The example shown to the left represents 201⁄2°.)
When the desired miter angle is set, engage the miter lock by pressing down on the miter lock lever.
► To set the miter angle to 1⁄2 degree between the primary angles, line up the 1⁄2° vernier indices with the adjacent angle index marks. (The example shown to the left represents 201⁄2°.)
When the desired miter angle is set, engage the miter lock by pressing down on the miter lock lever.
Cheese
Member
Peter Halle said:
That’s also my experience, I’ve never been able to just “swing” my Kapex between settings. Every time I need to move the table it takes a concerted 2-hand effort to do so.
Maybe that’s the issue, maybe the ones you’ve used are just a bit too loose and they may need to be adjusted properly.
When I move my Kapex towards a detent, as it approaches the detent and engages it, it locks in positively. Once I apply the lock NOTHING will move. I cannot “swing” it past a detent without using 2 hands. Once it hits the detent it gets locked in.
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