Kapex Adjustment Question

[fpsnyder]

Thanks, Eiji. I can rip just over 8 feet with the table saw where it is at. The countertops are a smidge lower than the table saw height. The built-in mobile base on the PM2000 lets me swing it around towards the garage door and then I can rip 16 feet. I can move the planer out towards the door and do the same. Almost everything moves to accommodate the task at hand.

I build all sizes of custom cabinetry, entry doors, furniture, arbors, and staircases. The concrete slab is finished SS/SF (super smooth/super flat) like the Borg floors, so I can spread out on the floor if necessary. The slab is also heated, which makes it nice to work on in the winter. I was limited with how big I could make this shop (584 sq. feet), so I have to improvise and plan carefully.

 

[Spike]

Very very nice Frank, looks like you won a Powermatic sweepstakes drawing. Great shop!!

 

[Spike]

Oh I forgot....Is that the Laguna LT16HD? How has it been and how is their customer service? I've heard sketchy things regarding their business practice. Strongly considering that saw.

 

[Al Lenkner]

Frank,

What is that Rigid tool?  I don't recall ever seeing anything like it........ at least in that configuration.

Al

 

[Brice Burrell]

Frank,

What is that Rigid tool?   I don't recall ever seeing anything like it........ at least in that configuration.

Al

It's an oscillating spindle/belt sander.

 

[Woodenfish]

Frank out of all of the pictures I've seen of shops of many woodworkers I am very impressed in how well your layout looks. In fact, I had to show your photo's to my dear wife who takes absolutely zero interest in my hobby. She said, "Ooooh that's nice!," "Wow!" 'Wow!"  And finally, "Don't get any funny ideas!" Still, I am happy for you.

 

[Per Swenson]

That is exceptional Frank.

But how can you Find anything?

Or do you have elves that follow you around all day?

Per

(who is just a naturally disorganized person)

 

[nclemmons]

Frank

I remember you documenting the building of that shop on SMC.  First pics I've seen of the finished item.  The design, landscaping, interior cabinetry and tool collection are first rate.

neil

 

[b_m_hart]

Haha, that's a $400k jr. 1 bedroom here in SF.  Very nice indeed.  I'd post more pictures of my dungeon, but that would make me sad.

(excellent space!)

 

[Michael Kellough]

Thanks, Eiji. I can rip just over 8 feet with the table saw where it is at. The countertops are a smidge lower than the table saw height. The built-in mobile base on the PM2000 lets me swing it around towards the garage door and then I can rip 16 feet. I can move the planer out towards the door and do the same. Almost everything moves to accommodate the task at hand.

I build all sizes of custom cabinetry, entry doors, furniture, arbors, and staircases. The concrete slab is finished SS/SF (super smooth/super flat) like the Borg floors, so I can spread out on the floor if necessary. The slab is also heated, which makes it nice to work on in the winter. I was limited with how big I could make this shop (584 sq. feet), so I have to improvise and plan carefully.

Now that's a feature

 

[fpsnyder]

Spike - Thanks for the compliments. The Laguna 16HD is a great saw. DO NOT get the Resaw King blade. It's not true carbide (Stellite?) and mine broke during normal use. I'm now running a Lennox Trimaster which is a wonderful blade. The good news is that the saw works very well and I've not needed to deal with Laguna. It was a toss up for me between the MM16 and this saw.

I did not win a PM Sweepstakes. WMH Tool Group is just down the street from me, so I figured I could knock on their door when I needed something. So far, so good.

Woodenfish - Thanks for the kind words. My wife was not on board at first with me building this shop in her back yard, so I tried to make it look like an architectural extension of our house. Now she loves it.

Per - Wow. Thanks, Per. I've seen you and your father's work and that means a lot to me. I probably waste a lot of time putting things away after each use, but this keeps me from losing it (literally and figuratively). And for the elves, I have two four-legged Basset Hounds who pick up anything I drop on the floor. They don't always give it back to me, but I know they mean well ;-)

Neil - Good memory! I actually just updated that thread at SMC today as well with these pictures. I'm not sure if I can post a link to that thread here or not?

Michael - Radiant in-slab heat is a must if you're going to build a shop in this area (Chicago). I used IPEX and a Luna Tankless hot water heater as the boiler. It is an extremely efficient heating method as the slab holds onto the heat and slowly releases it. It costs a little over a dollar a day to heat the shop during the winter using natural gas ($30-$40 month). I also used R-38 insulation in the ceiling joists and I have an insulated garage door which helps as well.

 

[Les]

Frank,

That is too much. ;D If I could, I would emulate your shop. Stupid neighborhood association.

Truly well designed.

On your cabinet doors, are they rail and style with bead board? How many feet of upper and lower cabinets to you estimate you have?

 

[Michael Kellough]

Spike - Thanks for the compliments. The Laguna 16HD is a great saw. DO NOT get the Resaw King blade. It's not true carbide (Stellite?) and mine broke during normal use. I'm now running a Lennox Trimaster which is a wonderful blade. The good news is that the saw works very well and I've not needed to deal with Laguna. It was a toss up for me between the MM16 and this saw.

I did not win a PM Sweepstakes. WMH Tool Group is just down the street from me, so I figured I could knock on their door when I needed something. So far, so good.

Woodenfish - Thanks for the kind words. My wife was not on board at first with me building this shop in her back yard, so I tried to make it look like an architectural extension of our house. Now she loves it.

Per - Wow. Thanks, Per. I've seen you and your father's work and that means a lot to me. I probably waste a lot of time putting things away after each use, but this keeps me from losing it (literally and figuratively). And for the elves, I have two four-legged Basset Hounds who pick up anything I drop on the floor. They don't always give it back to me, but I know they mean well ;-)

Neil - Good memory! I actually just updated that thread at SMC today as well with these pictures. I'm not sure if I can post a link to that thread here or not?

Michael - Radiant in-slab heat is a must if you're going to build a shop in this area (Chicago). I used IPEX and a Luna Tankless hot water heater as the boiler. It is an extremely efficient heating method as the slab holds onto the heat and slowly releases it. It costs a little over a dollar a day to heat the shop during the winter using natural gas ($30-$40 month). I also used R-38 insulation in the ceiling joists and I have an insulated garage door which helps as well.

I don't think there is a problem with that.    Matthew?

 

[fpsnyder]

Les - Thanks for the compliments. I'm in an older community (my house was built in 1920) and I did have to go before the city to get a variance to build this garage ($1K expense) in addition to getting all of the building permits. I was limited by size and placement on our property, as we're only on a 50x100 lot. Fortunately, we were able to sway the board and no neighbors showed up to object.

For the cabinets, the beaded face frames are MDF and reinforced with Dominoes. The doors are also MDF with a simple tongue and groove joint (also reinforced with Dominoes) and the panels are a prefab 1/4" MDF beadboard product. The face frames and doors are primed with an oil based enamel underbody primer, followed by BM Impervo oil-based enamel topcoat. The carcasses are 3/4" Melamine constructed with a combination of Dominoes and pocket screws. I've got a run of about 18 feet of base and wall cabinets. The base cabinets are 24" deep while the wall cabinets are 16" deep.

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Michael - Here's the link to my New Garage/Workshop thread over at SMC. Please delete this post if I'm violating any rules...
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=40868

You might need to create an account to actually see the pictures. It's free.

 

[DavidW]

Frank,
Extremely nice work on your new shop, the many details are great.
I think your shop is the first I've seen with beaded F/F and inset doors. I would like to know what you use to cut the miter haunches on stiles and rails, and do you mortise before you cut the haunches?
Again great work!!! David Werkheiser

 

[fpsnyder]

Thanks, David. I find my self doing a lot of beaded face frames these days.

The Domino's get plunged after the bead is formed, but before the jack miters. The stile mortises are set deeper to accommodate for the thickness of the bead. Once the bead is removed, the depth is spot on. I set the stile mortise at 28mm and the rails at 20mm.

The best method I've found to cut the jack miter is to use the table saw . I use an Incra v.27 with a sacrificial fence. I tilt the blade to 45 degrees and raise the blade until the tip of the tooth touches the shoulder of the bead. Once the height it set, I transcribe a vertical line on the sacrificial fence from the tip of the kerf to the top edge of the fence. The defines the inside cut of the jack miter. I then do a quick layout for each face frame (assuming that all of the beads have been cut into them) and I extend the rail shoulder lines across the stiles using a pencil and speed square. For the stiles, I simply line up that pencil line with my mark on the fence and pass the stile through the blade using the miter gauge. This produces a perfect jack miter cut. To remove the waste, I've used my bandsaw in the past, but I get a better cut using the table saw. Simply raise the blade up as high as it goes to reduce the radius, then align the rip fence to remove only the waste. You'll need to adjust the rip fence twice for each side of the stile. It'll leave some material on the inside of the cut, but I remove that with a chisel. For the rail jack miter cuts, I use the same technique, just line up the end of the rail with the line, and it'll remove just the bead. There's no waste to worry about with the rail cuts.

For captured jack miters (i.e; center rail for drawer bottom on face frame), I'll cut the jack miter using the same method above, then remove the waste using a stacked dado blade. Because my CMT dado blade leaves behind "devil ears", I set the dado blade a skin lower so I can remove them.

I'm actually making these cuts today for a project, so I'll take some pictures to better illustrate what I'm trying to describe here and post them later today.

 

[Spike]

Well done joinery Frank, very nice indeed.

 

[DavidW]

Frank,
It is always nice to see another way to do things, and your pictures are very instructive. Up until I got a Domino, I pocket holed all face frames. I still pocket hole smaller frames, but on large frames I  Domino and glue for added strength.
David Werkheiser