Kapex arbour nut broke in half

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Mar 13, 2012
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842
THE arbour nut in my kapex broke in half where you out in the Allen key while trying to change blades.

Anyone any idea how to now get it off?
 

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Try drilling the bolt with a standard right hand drill bit, if it catches it may remove the bolt. Don't forget the bolt is left hand thread----righty loosie----lefty thighty.

Grab it with a pair of Vice Grips and turn, again left hand thread, tun it the "right" direction to remove it.

Tom
 
Hi Tom I literally got it off 5mins ago using a vice grips.

I cant believe it broke so easily. It really gets awful tight through use. I only tighten it in enough so that the blade is not spinning loose and then it tightens up dramatically after the that.
 
galwaydude18 said:
It really gets awful tight through use. I only tighten it in enough so that the blade is not spinning loose and then it tightens up dramatically after the that.

I am pretty sure that it shouldn't self-tighten from use. The arbor and arbor flanges are keyed so they won't rotate against each other. My Kapex is European, so it should be the same as yours.

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Do both of your arbor flanges look like the picture above? When you install the outer flange, can you rotate it?

The outer flanges uses what is called a "Belleville Washer", which is a spring washer. When you tighten your bolt, you are primarily compressing this washer, and the washer is pressing into the arbor.
 
Rick Christopherson said:
Do both of your arbor flanges look like the picture above? When you install the outer flange, can you rotate it?

The outer flanges uses what is called a "Belleville Washer", which is a spring washer. When you tighten your bolt, you are primarily compressing this washer, and the washer is pressing into the arbor.

My N. American Kapex has the keyed flange with Belleville washer just like yours Rick.  It seems to tightens up on its own too.
 
galwaydude18 said:
Would copper grease work??

Yes and better too.

The nickel stuff is more toxic, and I doubt that the threads are getting red hot.
(The nickel stuff does work good on exhaust parts)
 
galwaydude18 said:
Hi Tom I literally got it off 5mins ago using a vice grips.

I cant believe it broke so easily. It really gets awful tight through use. I only tighten it in enough so that the blade is not spinning loose and then it tightens up dramatically after the that.

Tighten the bolt a little tighter when you install the blade. Your leaving it loose enough for the first start up torque to over tighten the bolt.

Tom
 
The arbor bolt on my CS70 also tightens up really strong. Had to make an extra long wrench to get it open.
 
Anti-seize:
Here's Never-Seez Nuclear grade. Extremely high nickel content and useable in high temp situations. Also very good in corrosive conditions. I use this for lug nuts on cars, u-joints, suspension components and exhaust manifolds. Works extremely well, but it is messy and takes several days to remove the nickel residue from your fingers.

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Loctite makes a copper anti-seize in a stick form like this (I have it downstairs but I can't locate it) that's what I would use on the Kapex.

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And then there are the Loctite locking compounds at the other end of the gamut that are shown above. Loctite red (permanent) and Loctite blue (temporary). Both available in the lipstick form and easy to apply and use.
 

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